• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

3-bolt G&L necks

I've had several 3 bolts, and one 6 bolt. At the moment, I have two 3 bolts and still have the 6 bolt. All feel very stable..... my '87 SB1 feels the most stable, had has no real deadspots.... the 6 bolt L2000 has a couple of dead spots, but are only discernable when not using an amp. The funny thing about the SB1 is that while it's the most stable feeling, it has the sloppiest looking joint. My '02 SB2 has a very tight pocket, but you really have to keep the bolts torqued, or you can feel it "creak" under your hands if you give the neck a slight push or pull.

I've never needed to use the tilt, and have never had a problem with getting low enough action with any of the three bolters I currently have (however, the SB2 is very finicky, but I attribute that to a very poorly cut nut that needs to be replaced). I had an early '80's L1000 with a ski-jumped neck..... the previous owner had been using the micro-tilt.

Ljazz
 
Yup. Bad wood is the root cause, exacerbated by darned near anything that can tweak the neck.

Ken...

If there is any one 'weakness' of G&L's, it is the wood in the necks. My theory on the ski jump issue is not the tilt, but rather the inherent pressure put on the tongue of the neck by the truss rod. Again, in theory, a 6 bolt neck with the new double expanding truss rod, should eliminate most or all ski-jumps in the 2007-present G&L's, as the tension of the strings is borne by the rods and less by their anchor point acting as a fulcrum. More tension on the rods, less tension on the wood.

In all honesty, I must tip my hat to Musicman for using the 'wheel at the heel' type of truss rod. Brilliant idea that allows any kind of fulcrum point to be at the headstock end where it is more favorable. Peavey is using this system, too.

My solution for the ski jump? Moses Graphite. I'll be posting a neck swap/ live performance review at the end of January 09. Stay tuned...
 
If there is any one 'weakness' of G&L's, it is the wood in the necks. My theory on the ski jump issue is not the tilt, but rather the inherent pressure put on the tongue of the neck by the truss rod. Again, in theory, a 6 bolt neck with the new double expanding truss rod, should eliminate most or all ski-jumps in the 2007-present G&L's, as the tension of the strings is borne by the rods and less by their anchor point acting as a fulcrum. More tension on the rods, less tension on the wood.

I don't think I'd jump on G&L over this. Skijump can affect any neck type - bolt-on, set, even neck-thru (though very rare). It starts out as a weakness in the wood that cannot be seen during manufacturing. Then the instruments get into the hands of an uninformed player and all Hell breaks loose.

The reason that the Precision Tilt can exacerbate the problem is that some folks over-adjust the tilt then tighten down the neck bolts to try to make the neck sit flat in the joint. Those three screws can apply a LOT of pressure to the neck heel, and over time can draw the heel into the curve that is the skijump. Once the cycle starts, it builds on itself until you end up with non-playable upper registers.

The old American adage seems to be fully in play here: "If one drop of oil is all that's called for, 2 or 3 drops would have to be great!" So instead of little quarter (or less) turns on the tilt screw, they give it a half turn or more. WRONG! If it takes that much adjustment, there's a bunch of other aspects of the setup that are in need of attention.

As to the new trussrod design: It isn't double-action. It is single action and doesn't expand; compression only. However, its design is such that it is a bit easier on the wood than the old one.

In all honesty, I must tip my hat to Musicman for using the 'wheel at the heel' type of truss rod. Brilliant idea that allows any kind of fulcrum point to be at the headstock end where it is more favorable. Peavey is using this system, too.

+1. The things are a bunch easier to adjust.

Ken...
 
Sorry, my bad, when I said double expanding, i meant where there is one rod tensioning against another, = 2 rods to my just-a-step-above-primate brain:D. Something along the lines of the Stew-Mac Hot Rod for those who know.
Now, double truss rods in a G&L neck, ala RIC? There's a whole other engineering exercise to steer clear from....
 
Sorry, my bad, when I said double expanding, i meant where there is one rod tensioning against another, = 2 rods to my just-a-step-above-primate brain:D. Something along the lines of the Stew-Mac Hot Rod for those who know.
Now, double truss rods in a G&L neck, ala RIC? There's a whole other engineering exercise to steer clear from....

Oh lordy please no..... One rod is enough, two just makes it more of a pain to adjust, requires a bigger hole at the adjustment end, etc.......

I wouldn't mind seeing the musicman style rod tho, where it's adjusted at the heel and easily accessible....

All that said, I notice the rod on my L2500, which is the new style, adjusts easier without the creaking I sometimes get with my L2000....

LS
LS