Now the order is correct, but the bass cut and volume are wired backwards.
0.022uF and 0.47uF are both an order of magnitude greater than what is appropriate. Missing a decimal point makes a HUGE difference.
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4 pot Wiring Diagram
- Thread starter Daniel109
- Start date
Now the order is correct, but the bass cut and volume are wired backwards.
0.022uF and 0.47uF are both an order of magnitude greater than what is appropriate. Missing a decimal point makes a HUGE difference.
OK thanks for all the help.
one more thing, am I right in assuming all the blue circle bits in the diagram are all connected to each other and soldered on the back of the pots?
and the two other connectors on the tone and bass cut are left not connected to anything?
And Would Greencaps be good capacitors? or should I try get ceramics?
one more thing, am I right in assuming all the blue circle bits in the diagram are all connected to each other and soldered on the back of the pots?
and the two other connectors on the tone and bass cut are left not connected to anything?
And Would Greencaps be good capacitors? or should I try get ceramics?
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The blue lines are going to ground. It doesn't matter if you do star grounding or not. In fact I think general modern consensus is that star grounding isn't the best option. Just make sure everything is grounded and has connectivity.
Ceramic capacitors are pretty much the lowest quality. Not that it makes a difference in this application. OTOH, they are known to have tolerances as loose as 80%, and can be microphonic. I am assuming that "greencaps" refers to film capacitors? Those are fine.
So I finished, in the end I decided to go with M0ses first idea of a cap selector switch,
so it is now wired V/V/T+cap selector.
thanks for the help everyone.
here's a before and after
Before (form the listing I bought it from)
It had no strings and the electronics didn't work, the AFR pickups worked when connected to an amp and battery.
and the fretboard and hardware were filthy
..and After
I also added strings, Loxx strap locks, and new knobs, and cleaned the fretboard
these pictures don't show the colour very well, it is actually much greener
The Man 'O' War pickups Sound really good.
my other two basses hum/buzz a bit when they are plugged in but these have no buzz/hum at all.
they are really clear and much louder than my other bases (all passive)
The Cap selector switch has four capacitors: 0.0047mfd, 0.022mfd, 0.033mfd, and 0.047mfd, the two in the middle are pretty much the same but the rest sound quite different. i was going to have a 0.1mfd but the store was all out so i went with the 0.033. I might change them later.
so it is now wired V/V/T+cap selector.
thanks for the help everyone.
here's a before and after
Before (form the listing I bought it from)
It had no strings and the electronics didn't work, the AFR pickups worked when connected to an amp and battery.
and the fretboard and hardware were filthy
..and After
I also added strings, Loxx strap locks, and new knobs, and cleaned the fretboard
these pictures don't show the colour very well, it is actually much greener
The Man 'O' War pickups Sound really good.
my other two basses hum/buzz a bit when they are plugged in but these have no buzz/hum at all.
they are really clear and much louder than my other bases (all passive)
The Cap selector switch has four capacitors: 0.0047mfd, 0.022mfd, 0.033mfd, and 0.047mfd, the two in the middle are pretty much the same but the rest sound quite different. i was going to have a 0.1mfd but the store was all out so i went with the 0.033. I might change them later.
Thanks for the follow-up...
Great to hear you got it all together to your liking- looks really nice, too.
The Man 'O' War pickups look a bit like Ibanez red-labeled Lo-Z pickups, also.
Did they fit the original routes?
BTW: Are you keeping the AFR's for spares, or maybe up for grabs?
Great to hear you got it all together to your liking- looks really nice, too.
The Man 'O' War pickups look a bit like Ibanez red-labeled Lo-Z pickups, also.
Did they fit the original routes?
BTW: Are you keeping the AFR's for spares, or maybe up for grabs?
+1 I learned this by experience.
My Squier VM Jaguar has V/T V/T controls (P/J pickups). Both tone controls will cut the highs (to the degree the knob is turned down) when the respective pickup is added. It's more confusing than useful. I end up setting the J pickup tone on full and just using the tone on the P pickup. That way when I add the J pickup, it doesn't affect the high frequencies. I think a V/V/T or a V/B/T would be much more useful. I personally prefer V/B/T, fwiw.
Vol, Blend, Tone, Series/Parallel Switch would be the route I'd go.
You could also swap the tone pot for a Fender TBX circuit. 
Totally passive.
Hi, I have been following this thread.
I have a rogue 5 string that I want to rewire using this method. I have no problem soldering and doing electrical work. I just need to source the parts. I am having trouble finding the right blend pot that has the 6 terminals. Can someone point me in the right direction?
EDIT:
I found them.
Here is what I found.
250k no load pot
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/CPC250NL/CTS-250K-No-Load-Guitar-Control-Pot.html
250k audio taper pot
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
250k blend pot
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/pr...Guitar-and-Bass-Pickup-Balance-Blend-Pot.html
1M audio taper pot for bass cut
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/pr...dio-Taper-Guitar-Volume-Tone-Control-Pot.html
Please, can someone look at these items and tell me if they will fit my Rogue 5 string bass with two pick-ups (on set of splits pick ups and one regular pick-up)?
Will this circuit work for any bass or are the resistances in the Daniel109's last (correct) diagram different for any particular bass?
Thanks
I have a rogue 5 string that I want to rewire using this method. I have no problem soldering and doing electrical work. I just need to source the parts. I am having trouble finding the right blend pot that has the 6 terminals. Can someone point me in the right direction?
EDIT:
I found them.
Here is what I found.
250k no load pot
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/CPC250NL/CTS-250K-No-Load-Guitar-Control-Pot.html
250k audio taper pot
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
250k blend pot
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/pr...Guitar-and-Bass-Pickup-Balance-Blend-Pot.html
1M audio taper pot for bass cut
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/pr...dio-Taper-Guitar-Volume-Tone-Control-Pot.html
Please, can someone look at these items and tell me if they will fit my Rogue 5 string bass with two pick-ups (on set of splits pick ups and one regular pick-up)?
Will this circuit work for any bass or are the resistances in the Daniel109's last (correct) diagram different for any particular bass?
Thanks
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The Jazz pickup fit perfectly, the P fitted but it was a little tight,
so I sanded the edges with a Mouse sander (masked off the top first to prevent scratching the finish)
and it fit in perfect.
The screws that came with the Man 'O' war pickups are only half the length of the old ones from the AFR's, so I ordered some more pickup screws and cut them slightly shorter.
Haven't decided what I'm going to do with the AFR pickups yet. I kinda want to keep the original parts together.
However I am in New Zealand, so if I do decide to sell them you would have to be in NZ too
To say that I'm a novice at this sort of thing would be flattery. I've got to go back and re-read this thread slowly. Since passive, four-pot wiring options are mentioned though, I thought I'd share mine. I have a reverse-P/J setup with EMGs -- the pickups are active but the rest is passive. vol/vol/tone/tone with a three way switch. I am told tha it's wired similar to modern Gibson guitar wiring. With the switch in the middle (both pups active), turning the volume control for one down all the way reduces the overall output to zero (it doesn't just "fade out" the pickup in question as with most setups). I'm still able to get some nice, nuanced shadings of one pickup or the other slightly favored, but it involves small turns of the pots! This is the setup I grew up with, though, so I'm used to it. I like having two tone controls -- rolling off the bridge pickup tone sounds different than rolling off the neck tone, and I can set each the way I want it when soloed.
I wouldn't mind having more useable range on my pots, but I really like the way my instrument sounds and don't want to compromise it. (This one's my baby -- I'm much more willing to experiment on my others!) I've also read that 50s wiring makes a difference in openness and responsiveness vs. modern wiring, but I'm just repeating something I heard, here.
EDIT: First time reading about a bass-cut pot, here.
I wouldn't mind having more useable range on my pots, but I really like the way my instrument sounds and don't want to compromise it. (This one's my baby -- I'm much more willing to experiment on my others!) I've also read that 50s wiring makes a difference in openness and responsiveness vs. modern wiring, but I'm just repeating something I heard, here.
EDIT: First time reading about a bass-cut pot, here.
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Hi, glad to see that that diagram isn't going to waste, as I didn't end up using it
I used a Linear Pot for the Volume rather than a audio.
the site I got my parts from had a CTS blend pot. But I doubt it makes too much difference.
I decided on two volumes because it seemed easier to wire up.
Good luck with it though
The Orange aerodyne has the eng passive Hz pickups. The pearl white precision have the man o war p bass pickups. The fretless jazz us getting the man o war j bass pickups maybe next week. ThE emgs are better than the stock pups were but don't sound as good as the man o wars do to me.
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Just rewired my Peavey 6-string grind bass following this diagram, works fine and sounds great. Used an oil cap .047uF for tone and a polypropylen .0022uF for bass cut. PU's are Seymour Duncan.
