The back is going to add a whole bunch of rigidity to it, roughly double it. How thick are your top and bottom?
lowsound
lowsound
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5 string Fretless 36" scale Padouk-Pau Ferro-Ebony-Silver Oak CT inspired
- Thread starter Matteo Marziali
- Start date
Hopkins
Commercial User
That is some serious chambering, a 4mm top is just over 1/8" I think I would probably put some kind of support block in the body just as a safeguard.
yep!
It's something like a Gibson Chet Atkins guitar, an acustic solidbody. I made a guitar in this way last year, it works, but probably the tension of 5 bass string is stronger than 6 classical strings....
Here some shots:
Yeah, I might add a support block in the middle of the chamber just to keep it from buckling. Although, if everything is glued well and bonded with everything else, it may not be much of an issue... Acoustic basses have a 1/8" top with similar space between the braces, but made of soft spruce.
Edit: after looking again, I've got a few questions; interesting design there! Gotta wait until I get home from work...
Edit: after looking again, I've got a few questions; interesting design there! Gotta wait until I get home from work...
Geoff St. Germaine
Commercial User
- Aug 31, 2001
- 6,267
- 302
- Disclosures
- Owner - St. Germaine Guitars
The bridge will be mounted to the solid area near the tail, correct? If so I can't see there being a strength issue. Acoustic instruments generally have far less structure and still hold up to the string tension.
I agree with Geoff. Most acoustic tops are well short of 1/8" thick and with that much fan bracing I can't imagine you having much trouble there as long as you have a thicker plate for the bridge to rest on.
- Aug 15, 2011
- 571
- 171
- Disclosures
- Owner/Luthier:RoseBud Basses & Guitars LLC
Yep
The pic of fan bracing come from the guitar. But i really think to put some bracing also in this project!
I'm agree!
Here the pic of the top glued with the Oak layer:
The rectangular parts of the Oak are for the PU support
Huh. Now that I see it semi-put-together, I agree that you shouldn't have any issues with it collapsing. It would take a tremendous amount of tension, even with that much hollowed out. You've left it solid in all the right places. Definitely want to see/hear this one!
UPDATE:
I put some Oak fan bracing in the back (and a couple of shark fin...), now it's much more stiffer!
The sound hole roughly shaped. Ok, it isn't a sound hole, just a little "scar" in the top to let the inner body breath.
I put the "heel block" on the neck. i've tried to cut it like it was already shaped, because this is one of the most difficult part to carve.
Next step:routing the neck pocket!
I put some Oak fan bracing in the back (and a couple of shark fin...), now it's much more stiffer!
The sound hole roughly shaped. Ok, it isn't a sound hole, just a little "scar" in the top to let the inner body breath.
I put the "heel block" on the neck. i've tried to cut it like it was already shaped, because this is one of the most difficult part to carve.
Next step:routing the neck pocket!
Neck pocket is done.
PU cover is done.
PU cavity is done.
Now i'm waiting for the preamp. It will arrive in a couple of day. I need to check if there is enough space in the cavity...
Next steps: gluing the back, gluing the "cat's eyes" and carve the body...
PU cover is done.
PU cavity is done.
Now i'm waiting for the preamp. It will arrive in a couple of day. I need to check if there is enough space in the cavity...
Next steps: gluing the back, gluing the "cat's eyes" and carve the body...
The Preamp is just arrived! It's a custom Coolsound Preamp, made in Italy. It's quite simple: 2 volume, 2 tone. I like to keep things simple...
I will add a single/series/parallel switch for magnetic PU and a 3 way switch to select bridge piezos/both/sounding board piezo.
Can't wait to hear this bass!
I will add a single/series/parallel switch for magnetic PU and a 3 way switch to select bridge piezos/both/sounding board piezo.
Can't wait to hear this bass!
That is looking really great. Where are piezo's go exactly?
Buy the way did you get a score on those ebay maple necks yesterday?
Buy the way did you get a score on those ebay maple necks yesterday?
Looks like 2 under the bridge and one centered beneath the pickup in the top.
Really looking forward to the contouring on this bass...
Right! The piezos under the bridge will be wire in parallel.
I was thinking about use the switch to wire them in series/parallel, but after reading this interesting Link Removed i decide to go in parallel.
Score?
I take a look on the ebay store you suggest to me, but there was only mahogany necks.
I made an homemade-shielding for piezo cable:
I put the piezo on the sounding board and i glued the back.
I used almost all my clamps!
Here is the carved body:
i put Bocotè and Mahogany for cat's eyes.
I think Nature made Bocotè only fod cat's eyes!
I put the neck and the Pu cover to see the look.
I'm quite satisfied. Maybe i can reshape the headstock, it's too much CT...
I put the piezo on the sounding board and i glued the back.
I used almost all my clamps!
Here is the carved body:
i put Bocotè and Mahogany for cat's eyes.
I think Nature made Bocotè only fod cat's eyes!
I put the neck and the Pu cover to see the look.
I'm quite satisfied. Maybe i can reshape the headstock, it's too much CT...
I put it on the scales: the wood weighs only 2300gr.
With all the hardware and electronics the total weight will be 3300gr (7.3Lb) Not bad!
With all the hardware and electronics the total weight will be 3300gr (7.3Lb) Not bad!
