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5 String Precision

mapleglo

Warp Engineer
Supporting Member
Sep 7, 2013
13,359
47,663
phoenix, az
So I've been thinking about taking a break from the pedal steel build, and building a bass. I was very happy with the way my recent Stratocaster build came out.

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So I thought I'd build a matching 5 string precision. I ordered a loaded Squier 5 string precision neck, which should arrive next week, which I may or may not use. And I found a couple of nice pieces of ash at the woodstore today.

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That wide piece is 12 3/8" wide, just short of a full body width, which I measure to be about 12 3/4". Of course, I'm guessing because I can't find a reliable 5 string precision bass body template. What I do have is a 4 string precision template, and a line drawing of a 5 string which I downloaded from the Fender website.

One overlaid over the other yields this:

2qi19mw.jpg


With the red lines showing the 4 string and the green lines showing the 5 string line art. They both look right by themselves, but it appears they differ significantly when compared. I may just go with the 4 string shape and widen the neck pocket. But I'm still thinking about it.

I also have this neck blank I made a while back, with 2 walnut stringers.

r076oj.jpg


I could do the same to that wide piece of ash, as I have enough walnut around, and make a body to match, which would make that piece wide enough. Then the neck would match the body, which may be pretty cool. And I can certainly use the experience of attempting another neck build. None so far have yielded satisfactory results, but I've only done a few attempts. And I can use the Squier neck as a template.

I've played around with other hardware I may use; either a Babicz or Schaller bridge, and I really like those Lace Alumitone pickups, so I may use one or two of those. I'm not interested in using a 5 string P pickup - those just look too non-symmetrical to me, and I swore I'd never use another jazz shaped pickup again. As I've said before, that was not one of Leo's better ideas.

Of course, I'll be doing a clear finish, just like the Strat, and if I use a pick guard, which I'm tending away from, it'll be white. I'd like to avoid controls on the body, which will be especially easy to do if I go with one pickup - just a volume on a side mounted plate, next to a side mounted jack. I've come to dislike the standard pick guard mounted output jack. And I'll just drill a hole for the control cavity, avoiding both a rear control cover, and pick guard. I had played with the idea of using a Strat output jack, and still may, but I'also tending away from that as well.

If anyone has a reliable 5 string precision body pdf, or a tracing of their (or someone else's) 5 string precision, and would like to spread the wealth, I'd be most appreciative. I'd hate to have to buy a 5 string body just to get a tracing.
 
So I did a little more research into the body shape of the 5 string. I grabbed a couple of images from the Sweetwater site. Their photography appears to be the most consistent.

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I laid them out in Illustrator, sized them to match, and traced each one.

Then I overlaid one on top of the other.

2crq25v.jpg


Green is the 5 string, red is the 4 string. Close enough for a match, taking into account my less than perfect tracing skills, along with the slight variations in the photographs. So I'll go with the 4 string template, edited with a wider neck pocket.
 
I have a 4 and 5 string p-bass, and can confirm - the only difference is the neck pocket. Well - that and pickup route, but that depends on the pickup. I put a reversed Delano p-pickup into my 5 string, and ordered a standard 4-string warmoth p-bass pickguard-sans-pup-route, and all I had to do was match the neck pocket.
 
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Considering the added weight of a 5 string neck and tuners, you might consider either extending the upper horn a touch, or deepening the pocket to move the neck inwards and bridge closer to end of the body.

Doing the latter benefits from a shorter lower horn and slightly deeper cutaway, like your first drawing in green... the only real drawback is getting a custom pickguard made, but you're probably doing this anyways.
 
Good idea. I may deepen the neck pocket a tad. There seems to be enough room toward the bottom of the body to lower the bridge slightly. I don't think I'm going with a pickguard, so that shouldn't be an issue.
 
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Hey Map,

I got a 5 string P in the drying stages. >>>>>> Koa P.
The piece of Koa was only 12.5 wide, so I used the templates from the guy down in Florida to redesign it to be @12.25 wide. I also set the neck deeper into the body as Marko suggested. As you can see, it still looks like a P bass

If interested, I could cut you a template for both the body and neck. PM me if interested.
 
Hey Map,

I got a 5 string P in the drying stages. >>>>>> Koa P.
The piece of Koa was only 12.5 wide, so I used the templates from the guy down in Florida to redesign it to be @12.25 wide. I also set the neck deeper into the body as Marko suggested. As you can see, it still looks like a P bass

If interested, I could cut you a template for both the body and neck. PM me if interested.

I am following that beautiful build. That Koa wood is just spectacular. They have quite a bit of it at the wood store I frequent, but it is so outrageously expensive, that I just never could bring myself to buy any. Thanks for the template offer, but I think I'm going to be ok. The neck should be here soon, and I got the body covered.
 
Template adjusted with the 5 string neck shape, and taped down to the body.

n5pbr.jpg


I'll make a pattern template for the neck pocket, rout that out, and then start cutting the body. But first, I have to check my center line again, looking at the picture now, it seems I'm a little off. With the center walnut stingers, it has to be exact, or it'll look funny.
 
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So, what's the plan? 5 string p shape with different pickups and subtle changes?
subbed.

Yes, that's pretty much spot on. Right now, I'm still tending toward the Lace Alumitone pickup. I'd love to do 2 of them, but finances are a little tight, so I'll likely go with one for now. I'm thinking positioning it just slightly lower than the standard precision location, for a little more high end response.

The Babicz bridge is also at the top of my list, but I'm tossing around options.
 
I'm seriously thinking about sanding off the Squier Logo and just leaving it blank. After all, even though I may never sell this, if I do, we wouldn't want people to think that this is an actual Squier. It wouldn't be right :p

This is completely objective conjecture, I'm not implying a course of action; it would be completely understandable if you wanted it blank if that's what you chose to do, for whatever reason. However, I for one feel that it is in fact a Fender/Squier neck and regardless of what anyone thinks it will remain so. And Squier necks are (to me) just as legit as a Fender neck, just to get that out there. Maybe because Fender is so copied and it's such a ubiquitous design that it's resulted in such stigma's over branding issues. I also understand that the hs logo/badge designates the brand of instrument and referencing my prior sentence, your build could be looked at as being a Squier bass. (if it quacks like a duck…) If you want it to remain unbadged because you want it to be considered your bass, or a bass you attached a Squier neck to - your call.

I'm currently working on a fretless that has a neck made by Westone, and the body is my design. As far as I'm concerned, I consider it my (designed) bass coupled with a Westone fretless neck, as in - I chose to incorporate it and not to fool anyone into believing it's a Westone bass. I could remove or cover up the lettering on the hs, but I like the lettering and the shape of it is characteristically Westone.
And just for fun, there is a precedence that John Entwhistle set a while ago, which is the "Fenderbird" (Thunderbird body/Fender neck) Any Epi or Gibson T-bird body with any Fender/Squier or Fender-esk neck is known as a Fenderbird.

Sorry for the large print - this site has formatting glitch issues now and then and it will shrink type size mid-sentance. (~!~) The adjustment options in the bar are either bigger or smaller but not the same - go figure.

 
This is completely objective conjecture, I'm not implying a course of action; it would be completely understandable if you wanted it blank if that's what you chose to do, for whatever reason. However, I for one feel that it is in fact a Fender/Squier neck and regardless of what anyone thinks it will remain so. And Squier necks are (to me) just as legit as a Fender neck, just to get that out there. Maybe because Fender is so copied and it's such a ubiquitous design that it's resulted in such stigma's over branding issues. I also understand that the hs logo/badge designates the brand of instrument and referencing my prior sentence, your build could be looked at as being a Squier bass. (if it quacks like a duck…) If you want it to remain unbadged because you want it to be considered your bass, or a bass you attached a Squier neck to - your call.

I'm currently working on a fretless that has a neck made by Westone, and the body is my design. As far as I'm concerned, I consider it my (designed) bass coupled with a Westone fretless neck, as in - I chose to incorporate it and not to fool anyone into believing it's a Westone bass. I could remove or cover up the lettering on the hs, but I like the lettering and the shape of it is characteristically Westone.
And just for fun, there is a precedence that John Entwhistle set a while ago, which is the "Fenderbird" (Thunderbird body/Fender neck) Any Epi or Gibson T-bird body with any Fender/Squier or Fender-esk neck is known as a Fenderbird.

Sorry for the large print - this site has formatting glitch issues now and then and it will shrink type size mid-sentance. (~!~) The adjustment options in the bar are either bigger or smaller but not the same - go figure.

If you go through the bass forum, you'll find many, many "discussions" regarding the use of Fender logos on non-Fender basses - I was poking fun. Truth is, I don't know if I want a Squier logo on the bass. But I haven't taken sandpaper to it yet...

And I've experienced that weird font issue myself. I think that happens every time someone somewhere mixes a 4x10 speaker cabinet with a 1x15 speaker cabinet.
 

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