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5k rolloff in a DI

JimmyM said:
I have one but it's already being used on my upright, plus I'm not sure if it's what I'm looking for. Honestly, it sounds like Caeman's Micro Screaminator is what I want. I'd rather it be a little more gradual than completely brickwalling, but it'd probably work just fine for me. I wish I could build stuff like that myself...I'd save a fortune.

Fokof, I was playing passives and still do sometimes, but just recently switched to EMG's in my P Lyte.

Thanks again for all the wonderful ideas, folks!

Agree on a more gradual roll off. Brick walling always sounds incredibly artificial and muffling to me. Also, IMHO if you don't also attenuate the lows it only sounds worse. I think you have to tighten the bottom at the same time to get the right sound. That is after all what those vintage cabinets did. I really think you'd like the Tone Hammer for this if you could find one to try.
 
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I bought a Fishman Dual Parametric DI and never looked back. In addition to DI functions, which you won't need, there are two fully-parametric filters, each of which can be switched in or out of the circuit path independently. No, it's not strictly a low-pass filter, but it functions very effectively. Too bad it's no longer being made.

Others enthusiastically recommend the Empress, but I prefer the functionality of the Fishman.
 
As promised, a sound sample.

http://soundclick.com/share.cfm?id=12012889

I start out with Channel A, play the riff, then switch. You can hear the click of my A/B switch.

For me, the obvious audible differences include:
1) Fewer really high highs
2) It seems to tame my signal from the TV Jones minihumbucker in a way that a simple bypass does not.

Sorry, I tried my best to level the levels, but all of my other pedals are either for guitar, and on, cut lows too much skew the results.

The equipment path:
Gretsch -> 10 ft cable -> AB Switch -> 6" patch -> pedal -> 10 ft cable -> Behringer mixer -> UCA202 interface -> Reaper
 
Chads micro-screaminator makes a lot of sense for this! I know just what Jimmy is talking about, too- whackity-clackity-do in the foh when you want a warm tone to come across. Frustrating! What about a traditional, passive tone knob before the di (assuming there is no buffering upstream)?
 
Potentially, could the MXR 10-band suffice? If you tankt he 16kHz and 8kHz sliders to -12, even with it being a shelving EQ, that would put a serious damper on 8k and above. Slide the 4kHz to -6db, and you get that gradual slope to -12 for the rest of the signal. And at 18v operation, it should have quite a bit of headroom.
 
Chads micro-screaminator makes a lot of sense for this! I know just what Jimmy is talking about, too- whackity-clackity-do in the foh when you want a warm tone to come across. Frustrating! What about a traditional, passive tone knob before the di (assuming there is no buffering upstream)?
That Markbass pedal with the VLE on it is pretty similar to that and is also a contender for me. When I was using an LMII for a few months, that was my very favorite feature on it. Just a little worried that it'll act on the tone in other ways, whereas a simple pedal like the Micro Screaminator wouldn't. At least I think it wouldn't ;)

EDIT: Never mind on the Markbass pedal. The Mini Boost was what I was thinking of, and it only has the VPF and not the VLE. VPF's a mid scooper...not what I'm looking for!
 
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Yeah, I did, and it works somewhat, but it's not the same as cutting freqs above 5k. The treble knob has a pretty wide frequency range no matter what setting you use and can get a little muddy.
 
i use a palmer PDI-09 DI for my FOH sound, it has a speaker sim built in and has a three way switch to roll off progressively more highs.

its perfect! FOH sound has never been so consistant, especially with all this overdrive and distortion im using.

im really interested in the markbass super booster DI which has the VLE filter, it's the only thing i'd replace my palmer with.
 
In my mind most pedals fall short of a very specific goal here. It might be worth looking past stompboxes into pro audio gear that was designed to solve specific issues like this. Browsing the Mercenary Audio site just now I came across [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] that looks like it would do the job.