Was just going to post this. The obituary says that this Alan Hamilton died on the 10th of June. I think we're still cool.
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6 String Fanned for Alan
- Thread starter Phil Mailloux
- Start date
Was just going to post this. The obituary says that this Alan Hamilton died on the 10th of June. I think we're still cool.
Sorry. You may now continue with your regularly scheduled postings.
If the GTG is in November theres a very good chance I won't be able to make it as I will probably be out west somewhere doing work experience for my degree.
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
Back to work on this one, delivery is due in January. The bridge will now be Hipshot Individuals as a certain deadbeat hardware company can't deliver on their promises of 8 to 12 weeks (now in the 7th month waiting)
(cut-copy-paste from different forum: originally posted 2 weeks ago)
Took a bit of time to glue the Wenge veneer under the spalted Maple top today. I'm slowly starting on the build again. There's probably going to be a bit more gluing going on in the next few days.
First pic is the top next to the layers of veneer that will be glued under it. Second pic is the clamped top. Third pic is the result.
A bit more gluing done. The first pic shows the piece of Swamp Ash for Alan's body next to a template print out of his body. The second pic is Alan's body being glued and another Swamp Ash body for a Jazz bass being glued too. That'll be the next bass I start after this one.
(cut-copy-paste from different forum: originally posted 2 weeks ago)
Took a bit of time to glue the Wenge veneer under the spalted Maple top today. I'm slowly starting on the build again. There's probably going to be a bit more gluing going on in the next few days.
First pic is the top next to the layers of veneer that will be glued under it. Second pic is the clamped top. Third pic is the result.
A bit more gluing done. The first pic shows the piece of Swamp Ash for Alan's body next to a template print out of his body. The second pic is Alan's body being glued and another Swamp Ash body for a Jazz bass being glued too. That'll be the next bass I start after this one.
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
(cut-copy-paste from different forum: originally posted last week)
I finally fretted the neck this Sunday. Today I started cutting the neck pocket. Seeing as this bass is a set neck and has a full face top, cutting the neck pocket is a bit more complicated than cutting it for a bolt-on.
The first pic has the neck on top of the body/top with a paper template of the body for an idea of the looks it'll have. Second pic shows a bit more of the top
If you look very good at this pic under here you'll see 3 screws holding the top to the body. The screws are there to align the center lines in the body and the top and hold it this way. The last thing you want is to look at the butt end of the body and see that the center lines don't meet. The screws will make it possible to reposition the top to the body in the right spot during the build progress.
On this pic you can see a ruler, this will be used to center the neck when routing the pocket, its to make sure the neck won't be crooked.
Here I clamped the neck on the body and two bars running on the sides of the neck , these bars will be the guides for the router. The neck is clamped and adjusted until everything is peachy and perfect, the clamps are then set this way and the neck removed. It's now ready to rout.
The pocket is routed and the neck fitted to it temporarily.
That's it for today. Next time I'll shave down the extra bit of timber at the bottom of the neck and cut the top to fit it between the neck and body.
I finally fretted the neck this Sunday. Today I started cutting the neck pocket. Seeing as this bass is a set neck and has a full face top, cutting the neck pocket is a bit more complicated than cutting it for a bolt-on.
The first pic has the neck on top of the body/top with a paper template of the body for an idea of the looks it'll have. Second pic shows a bit more of the top
If you look very good at this pic under here you'll see 3 screws holding the top to the body. The screws are there to align the center lines in the body and the top and hold it this way. The last thing you want is to look at the butt end of the body and see that the center lines don't meet. The screws will make it possible to reposition the top to the body in the right spot during the build progress.
On this pic you can see a ruler, this will be used to center the neck when routing the pocket, its to make sure the neck won't be crooked.
Here I clamped the neck on the body and two bars running on the sides of the neck , these bars will be the guides for the router. The neck is clamped and adjusted until everything is peachy and perfect, the clamps are then set this way and the neck removed. It's now ready to rout.
The pocket is routed and the neck fitted to it temporarily.
That's it for today. Next time I'll shave down the extra bit of timber at the bottom of the neck and cut the top to fit it between the neck and body.
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
I started the day by making a jig for cutting the extra timber from the neck with some spare plexiglass and timber.
I also cut the fretboard end flush
Next pic, I screwed the top back on the body to draw lines to where the timber would need t be cut to fit on top of the neck. Pics after that sees the hole after it was cut
After that I screwed the bridge on for the longest scale string, the B string, 37" to check out the intonation of the string and see how far back the bridge needs to be. Turns out it was a good idea to do that as its about 5mm past the end of the body. So the body will be slightly modified before cutting it out.
I also cut the fretboard end flush
Next pic, I screwed the top back on the body to draw lines to where the timber would need t be cut to fit on top of the neck. Pics after that sees the hole after it was cut
After that I screwed the bridge on for the longest scale string, the B string, 37" to check out the intonation of the string and see how far back the bridge needs to be. Turns out it was a good idea to do that as its about 5mm past the end of the body. So the body will be slightly modified before cutting it out.
Hey Phil, thanks for sharing all of these! Its good to see a full face top with all the tricky bits in progress 
How did you do the enclosed truss rod nut? Drill the heel end of the neck with a pillar drill? Or is there an easier way?
Im also wondering how youre going to get the spalt lines to pop when you finish it, and what kind of finish you'll use - but I'll just have to wait.
How did you do the enclosed truss rod nut? Drill the heel end of the neck with a pillar drill? Or is there an easier way?
Im also wondering how youre going to get the spalt lines to pop when you finish it, and what kind of finish you'll use - but I'll just have to wait.
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
I just clamped the neck on the side of my drill press table, inserted the rod then glued the fretboard on top. The drill press table can be moved sideways.
A picture's worth a thousand words right? Here's a pic of a different bass.
The finish will be nitro-cellulose and the spalt lines will pop out on their own when the lacquer is applied.
A picture's worth a thousand words right? Here's a pic of a different bass.
The finish will be nitro-cellulose and the spalt lines will pop out on their own when the lacquer is applied.
Wow - quick!
Cheers Phil, you made that look easy
Im looking forward to working with a spalted maple top, but I need to hone a few skills first. This build is giving me ideas tho!
Cheers Phil, you made that look easy
Im looking forward to working with a spalted maple top, but I need to hone a few skills first. This build is giving me ideas tho!
I can lay this to rest, Hambone (OUR Hambone) was here in NC well after June for a visit. He's just fine.
Phil, this is a killer looking bass, really digging your work, as always!
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
Thanks for the comments guys. Hey Gard I have to thank you for posting the Roscoe videos on Youtube they gave me a lot of ideas for my builds. I bought an air die grinder after seeing your vids for carving tops
hey Greenman ! haven't seen you in a while, how's your build?
Really nice top Phil, everything is so clean in your work. Lache pas, c'est beau en criss !!
Really nice top Phil, everything is so clean in your work. Lache pas, c'est beau en criss !!
Phil what is the metal thing on the bit? Some kind of stop or something like that?
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
It was an hole cutting bit, there's inserts that fit into that metal part to cut different diameter holes. I used that bit for the truss hole simply because it was the only bit I had that had the right diameter
I can lay this to rest, Hambone (OUR Hambone) was here in NC well after June for a visit. He's just fine.
Whew! Am I glad to hear this...I was getting worried.
And Phil...that IS a fine piece of work.
- Mar 25, 2005
- 1,172
- 10
- Disclosures
- Builder: Mailloux Basses
Thanks Hambone and welcome back to the land of the living
Did you end up buying that CNC you were talking about some years ago?
Here's more updates since I'm here
Glued first the neck to the body then the top to the body.
Then did the carve on the body, just a slight one
Routed the electronics cavity and cover. I made one of Swamp Ash and also a spare one out of the top material
Did you end up buying that CNC you were talking about some years ago?
Here's more updates since I'm here
Glued first the neck to the body then the top to the body.
Then did the carve on the body, just a slight one
Routed the electronics cavity and cover. I made one of Swamp Ash and also a spare one out of the top material
