47 pounds... not including the steel frame to hold the neck up
No, I am not filling it with cement...
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
7-string fretless super hollowbody for Alex
- Thread starter Son of Magni
- Start date
No, I am not filling it with cement...
The scale is as accurate as the slotting template
...and how accurate is the template?
...and how accurate is the template?
My frets are always within an ounce of perfect...
More pics coming up!
Ok, I'll start things off with the final shots of gluing up the body wings. I finished up the f holes and glued the front and back panels on.
Link Removed
Link Removed
And here are the body wings all glued up. Don't freak out now, remember this is a cross between an electric and acoustic, so it's nice and thick to have some resonance.
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
And here are the body wings all glued up. Don't freak out now, remember this is a cross between an electric and acoustic, so it's nice and thick to have some resonance.
Link Removed
Link Removed
Here's a couple pics to give a little idea how it all looks together after radiusing the edges.
Link Removed
Link Removed
And a quick look inside.
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
And a quick look inside.
Link Removed
The body is 4 1/4 thick, the same as my Takamine acoustic.
Now, laying out the neck here. Nothing special going on except that you can see the rectangular area marked out below the neck area. This piece will be cut out and attached to the bottom of the part that goes through the body to get the depth. This will be more clear later.
Link Removed
Link Removed
Now, laying out the neck here. Nothing special going on except that you can see the rectangular area marked out below the neck area. This piece will be cut out and attached to the bottom of the part that goes through the body to get the depth. This will be more clear later.
Link Removed
Link Removed
And it's on to the bandsaw with the neck. I make all the horizontal cuts first, then mark the neck side tapers and rough cut them. The neck back and sides will be cleaned up during the neck carving stage.
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
Oops, I forgot the trussrods. Being a 7-string I'm putting in two rods. After laying out all the cuts on the neck blank I know where the truss rods belong. So I mill the slots out before moving to the bandsaw. These are hotrod trussrods so the slots are .460 deep. Angled to follow the neck sides. Also Alex wants the magnetic pickup as close to the fingerboard as possible so the adjusters will be available through slots at the very end of the fingerboard. Later I'll show how the end of the fingerboard is cut to allow the adjustments.
This all happened before the previous post...
Notice the Craftsman lamp on the milling machine. These are great lamps. Dual florescent lamps on a gooseneck, with a magnetic bass and extra AC outlets. And no, I don't work for Sears...
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
This all happened before the previous post...
Notice the Craftsman lamp on the milling machine. These are great lamps. Dual florescent lamps on a gooseneck, with a magnetic bass and extra AC outlets. And no, I don't work for Sears...
Link Removed
Link Removed
Link Removed
I have a doubt. I read in a few post here that the strings tension goes parallel along the center line of the neck and because of that the trussrods running parallel along the necks centerline work in better way than the trussrods running parallel to the taper instead. The explainations of those post sounded Ok to me and I'm seeing you making the slots parallel to the necks taper.
