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7-string fretless super hollowbody for Alex

#61
eleonn said:
I have a doubt. I read in a few post here that the strings tension goes parallel along the center line of the neck and because of that the trussrods running parallel along the necks centerline work in better way than the trussrods running parallel to the taper instead. The explainations of those post sounded Ok to me and I'm seeing you making the slots parallel to the necks taper.
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I's say that the average tension of all the strings is parallel to the centerline. But another way to look at it is that the strings on one side, say B/E/A on a 6 string, are at a slight angle and the rod under them should be close to that angle. But the reality of the situation is that a 1 or 2 degree angle makes no appreciable difference. I install them this way so that you get some response difference between the two rods but where the neck is more narrow at the nut they have to be closer to allow proper carving of the back.

tdogg said:
what kind of bridge is that youre using?
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It's an ABM piezo bridge.
 
#63
eleonn said:
I have a doubt. I read in a few post here that the strings tension goes parallel along the center line of the neck and because of that the trussrods running parallel along the necks centerline work in better way than the trussrods running parallel to the taper instead. The explainations of those post sounded Ok to me and I'm seeing you making the slots parallel to the necks taper.
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It might work slightly better is their parallel to the centerline, but it's probably not much different. To me it seems that having the two truss rods sitting as far apart as possible would improve the control over the two sides of the neck, which to me would be the reason to use two truss rods (unless there is doubt that one truss rod could effectively move the neck). Running the truss rods parallel to the taper would allow the truss rods to be as far apart as possible without compromising the integrity of the neck.
 
#64
Geoff St. Germaine said:
It might work slightly better is their parallel to the centerline, but it's probably not much different. To me it seems that having the two truss rods sitting as far apart as possible would improve the control over the two sides of the neck, which to me would be the reason to use two truss rods (unless there is doubt that one truss rod could effectively move the neck). Running the truss rods parallel to the taper would allow the truss rods to be as far apart as possible without compromising the integrity of the neck.
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Yeah, that's what I meant, but more clearly stated...
 
#65
Ok, now we're getting to the fun stuff. The upper and lower sections of the neck get cut out to create the opening between the body wings. I leave just over .200 which is basically the same thickness as the front and back of the body. Also it's kept thicker where the pickup will be and where the bridge screws on. It's down to .200 under the saddles though. Also inside the body wings blocks are attached in the same areas for the pickup area and bridge screws.

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#66
In the last pic, with a quick glance while scrolling down, I thought you had the piece on a granite table! Upon inspection, I see what I must've thought was the figuring was simply wood shavings. Thank god! :p
 
#67
So we glue the neck parts together.

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Making sure it's lined up...

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Then I remember I'm supposed to have walnut highlights between the neck and body. This would have been easier to do before cutting out the inside shape. But no biggie, just a few repeat steps and everything's fine.

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#68
Ha, ok I heard you all laughing when you saw that neck heel and saying "that'll be a bitch to carve". Yup.


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There used to be a whole bunch of stuff on my bench. It's all on the floor now.

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#73
Next up is installing the fingerboard. In the past I've always done this after gluing on the body wings. This time I decided that it would be smarter to reverse the order. This way any minor carving near the body joint will be easier.

After caulking in the trussrods, I cover them with tape and apply the glue. Then put the fingerboard in place and hold it there with tie-wraps. I put my caul on top and use the spring clamps to further stabilize it while I put on the C clamps.

Arrgh, I wonder of a mod could help me out by reversing the order of the previous post and this one :(

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#74
FINALLY, it's time to glue the body on. I'm doing this at the same time as putting the lams on the headstock. As I've shown before, I use closed cell foam as a caul to help form the back headstock lam. Gluing the body wings on is pretty simple. Just need to be really careful about alignment.

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