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Looks like poly to me. And yes I've seen many Fender ash bodies finished in SB.
I've owned lots of '70s Fenders too. Your finish is old poly and what you see is common for the era. As Narud said, the poly from back then is not the same (or as consistent) as today's modern poly. I've had many '70s poly Fenders that checked and were sprayed thinner than average like yours. Put it under a blacklight.. 35 year old nitro will glow like a radioactive green milkshake. Poly will not.
I've owned lots of '70s Fenders too. Your finish is old poly and what you see is common for the era. As Narud said, the poly from back then is not the same (or as consistent) as today's modern poly. I've had many '70s poly Fenders that checked and were sprayed thinner than average like yours. Put it under a blacklight.. 35 year old nitro will glow like a radioactive green milkshake. Poly will not.
One of my favorite basses is my 1978 sunburst RW P-Bass. I am basing this year of manufacture on the S863xxx serial number on the headstock, the pickup codes, the pot codes (one '77 and one '78) and the neck code. The bass has never been refinished. I'm sure of it. It is, with few exceptions like the pickguard and nut, original and unmodified. What I noticed when I bought this bass about 5 years ago was that the finish was rather "soft". What I mean by that is you could press a fingernail into the paint and leave a dent. I never gave it much thought... for 5 years. I recently read some articles here on TB and some other forums about others with '78 P-Basses with similar "soft" paint. This got my curiosity. Most were asking if their bass could possibly be finished from Fender with "nitro" but the responses unanimously from TB'ers referred the "fact" that Fender did not use nitro finishes in '78, they used polyurethane. Some offered that the soft paint could be due to Fender using a "catalyzed poly" without enough hardener mixed in causing the paint to soften over time.
So, my question was "how do you test for what your finish is or isn't". On further internet investigation I learned that THE test for nitro is using a dab of acetone or lacquer thinner on a q-tip in an inconspicuous spot under the pickguard...just a dab. Nitro will immediately soften up leaving a rough spot in the finish from the nitro softening, getting disturbed by the cotton and then hardening back up again as the acetone evaporates. Poly will not react at all. Well, I just tested mine with acetone and if this is a true test for nitro... mine clearly is nitrocellulous lacquer paint and not polyurethane or catalyzed poly. The surface of the paint immediately started to breakdown with some of the paint color adhering to the q-tip. The remaining spot looked like you touched a dry q-tip to a tacky painted surface (see picture). I also attached a pic of some dings in the finish down to the wood. I do not see any fullerplast undercoating. Only wood. And the painted finish is very thin. Not thick like poly.
This leaves me happy and confused. My finish passed the finger-nail test and acetone test for nitro. It's a '78. It has not been refinished. What happened?
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Yep. There are a number of 70's ash 3TSB Fenders on the web right now. (Reverb, Pinterest, Gbase and Ebay).
Jim Carr... I seriously do appreciate your feedback but you gotta let go of the "refin" angle.This bass was NOT refinished. No way. No how. If I had nothing to do I would disassemble the body and you would be able to see that but that ain't happening. I'm 64 and been buying (and selling) basses since 1971. I know what a refin looks like. Even a good one.
I have held on to this P-Bass because it sounds better with flats than any of the 20+ P-Basses that I have owned including my late 60's and early 70's CBS transition basses, an American Vintage '63, two Select P-Basses and a flock of American Standards. This one just has "the" sound (I hate that term).
So further searching of numerous forums last night just confuses the issue more since a number of people are saying that all poly isn't created equal and some poly's are impervious to acetone (one person actually used it to clean his finish) and some poly's get disolved quickly by acetone just like nitro would. So, IF this is true, that tells me acetone is not the best test for identifying nitro. Had I known that I wouldn't have bothered to test it with acetone.