Thanks for all the knowledge fellas.
Much appreciated.
I'll post again when the project is complete.
Much appreciated.
I'll post again when the project is complete.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
using the 32 ohm cast frame CA10s all in parallel was actually very good idea.
likewise tone of those speakers have better clarity to my ears, and sensitivity is much higher
good experience hearing a nice 4x10 with high sensitivity and no series wiring.
96dBx4 driver really adds up, compared to 93ish dB. a 99dB cab compared to 102dB might not seem like much. maybe others will explain benefit in raising system sensitivity by 3dB
i just never cared for either 102 actually.
ported application it is good call likewise. but CA10 fits bill too, it is a higher cost driver as well unfortunately. so its a raises the budget. worth it id say
likewise tone of those speakers have better clarity to my ears, and sensitivity is much higher
good experience hearing a nice 4x10 with high sensitivity and no series wiring.
96dBx4 driver really adds up, compared to 93ish dB. a 99dB cab compared to 102dB might not seem like much. maybe others will explain benefit in raising system sensitivity by 3dB
i just never cared for either 102 actually.
ported application it is good call likewise. but CA10 fits bill too, it is a higher cost driver as well unfortunately. so its a raises the budget. worth it id say
Last edited:
yes indeed, but midrange magic and high sensitivity is calling lol. 3dB raise in system sensitivity requires twice power. your cut power need drastically with higher sensitivity.
or not push so hard if covering a loud situation and still want to get there maybe with just one cab. its not overwhelming lol. just more clarity really with the driver more than anything.
really just dont care for 102s as far as buying something. if i had cab loaded with the things. be just fine, it work. buying something mehhh litlte different.
no need for series wiring, its common but higher impedance coils work well and give you all parallel load. technically raises the thermal rating. no biggy, gets rid of series loads too
or not push so hard if covering a loud situation and still want to get there maybe with just one cab. its not overwhelming lol. just more clarity really with the driver more than anything.
really just dont care for 102s as far as buying something. if i had cab loaded with the things. be just fine, it work. buying something mehhh litlte different.
no need for series wiring, its common but higher impedance coils work well and give you all parallel load. technically raises the thermal rating. no biggy, gets rid of series loads too
Last edited:
Why not go for neos? They would be in the same power range or higher depending on which ones you choose. Also a lot easier on the back. I run Deltalites and they sound great. The Basslites are cheaper and rated pretty well. There are also the Kappalites, but I haven't heard much about them. Just another option to consider.
If wired Parallel/series, instead of series/parallel, if one speaker went out, the rest would still work. (Each pair in parallel, and then the paralled pairs in series.
As long as series is in the wiring description one of those series speakers requires all of its series companions to be working. If you lose the connection to one, you lose it to all. Parallel/Series is the same as Series/Paralell. Changing the order of wiring only moves the failure points, it doesn't reduce or eliminate them.
Not sure if anyone mentioned this, But 32ohm speaks have a higher Q than 8 or 4ohm drivers. That came straight from Ampeg info I saw many years ago. What this means is that the 32ohm drivers are naturally brighter delivering a bit more high frequency from the center voice coil area of the cone. This is pretty much the reason why you have never seen tweeters/horns in Ampeg SVT 810 cabinets because they don't need them and have plenty of spunk in the higher frequencies of the bass guitar spectrum....Just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in anyway.
Went through this a while back, after talking at some length to a tech at Eminence, got the BP102's and did series/parallel wiring, GK cab.. Very happy. If you go for sensitivity or weight you lose low end response, personal opinion but that's what I prefer. 10's already have plenty of mids and highs for me.
Now that is something I will consider. There is no tweeter or horn in this cab.
Thanks man
- Nov 24, 2008
- 4,343
- 7,163
- Disclosures
- Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
Just for the record...
Higher woofer Q does not result in brighter tone in and of itself (actually the opposite is true because higher Q = fatter low end). Some design features (such as thinner voice coil wire to raise the impedance) can result in a bit more top end, and along the way those design features may also raise the woofer Q.
Rehearsal studio? You need the volume to keep up with other loud instruments?
Putting 4 x 200w drivers in a cab doesn't automatically give you 800w of power handling.
If you bring up speaker box design software you'll notice that golden designs all tend to make the boxes bigger than what you'll typically find from bass cabinet makers. You may find that loading just two drivers in the cab gives as much output as loading four drivers in the same box.
If it's for recording studio then buy a put together cab with the driver and box designed together. It will be a lot easier to work with. A 1 x 10 records as well as a 4 x 10.
If I were to only load two, would I then Leave the others empty, allowing sound to come out of there as well or would I mount two "dummy" speakers (I have blown 10")?
What speakers would you recommend with a $400 budget?
