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8ohm ?

Your speakers are 300w and no more. This doesn't change when you link then together only the resistance changes. The MB500 will give you 250w into one speaker and 500w split between two. Each will get a share of the 500w. Same with the Quilter. It will do 450w into one 8ohm and 800w into 2 8ohm speakers, again the 800w is split evenly between each speaker.
 
Your speakers are 300w and no more. This doesn't change when you link then together only the resistance changes. The MB500 will give you 250w into one speaker and 500w split between two. Each will get a share of the 500w. Same with the Quilter. It will do 450w into one 8ohm and 800w into 2 8ohm speakers, again the 800w is split evenly between each speaker.
So it wont be any louder then? your saying ill get 250 in each speaker. think thats enough to play out with? or should I sell the elf and get 2 12 inch cab's
 
AWW Thats what I wanted to know. Thank you.


When you add a second identical speaker the total power handling doubles and the impedance halves.

When you have two speakers playing close to each other, you get acoustic coupling that nets a theoretical +6dB across the frequency range in which the drivers are within approximately 1/4 wavelength. In other words you get enhanced sensitivity in the low in. This is why it's often better to increase the number of cabs rather than increase the level of power.

However it's unusual to actually realize the full 6dB because most amps do not double their power when the impedance is cut in half. With a tube amp, for example, the power is the same regardless of impedance as long as the amp sees the expected load. So if you add an identical speaker that changes the load from 8 to 4 ohms and reconfigure the output of the amp from 8 to 4 ohms, the amp will make exactly the same power. The power is then split equally between the speakers which drops the SPL each speaker makes -3dB before the +6dB of acoustic summing occurs. Therefore you only get -3+6=+3dB.

A few solid state amps actually do double the power when the load changes from 8 to 4 ohms. So when you plug the second speaker, the first speaker continues at the same power/volume and the second speaker matches the power/volume. This is the situation where you get the full +6dB.

Let's use the actual spec for one of my amps to see what typically happens. Let's assume a speaker with a 97dB sensitivity rating, and a series I GK 700RB that makes 225W at 8 ohms or 380W at 4 ohms. As you see this amp does not double its power; rather it makes about 170% more power when the load is cut in half.

First lets find the dB difference for 1-225W. I don't know the math so I will use Watts to dBm conversion calculator

1W = 30dBm
225W = 53.52dBm

I rounded these figures up to the second significant digit. We will drop the "m" from the unit of measure since we are concerned with calculating the dB change.

53.52-30=23.52dB. This is the dB change from 1W to 225W

Add this to the 97dB sensitivity rating of one cab. 97+23.52=120.52dB. This is max calculated SPL of one 8 ohm cab.

Remember with identical two speakers in parallel, the power is split evenly between them and at 4 ohms the amp makes 380W.
380/2=190W per speaker.
From the Watt to dBm calculator
190W = 52.79dBm

52.79-30=22.79dB. This is the dB change from 1-190W.

Add this to the 97dB sensitivity rating of one cab. 97+22.79=119.79. So we see that each speaker is now playing a bit lower than if if were only using one speaker. But then we get ~+6dB from acoustic summing in the low end where most of the power is used. 119.79+6=125.79dB. This is the max calculated SPL with two 8 ohm cabs in parallel.

125.79-120.52=5.27. In this case, adding the second speaker gives us +5.27dB, which is a noticeable difference, and definitely more than you would get by doubling the power into a single speaker.

So adding a second speaker allows your rig to play louder while putting less stress on the speakers. In this example, when we added the second speaker the max power level presented to each speaker dropped from 225W to 190W.
 
300w through a 110 isn't very likely for very long before it ends in tears.

Not sure I understand?

Translation: 300w might destroy a single 10.
Truth: Your single 10 will take everything the MB500 can throw at it without an issue and a second cab would make a very nice medium sized rig.
The Quilter is more powerful and you might reach the limits of the cab or cabs somewhere near the top range of its volume.....or not, RMS listings are vague at best and misleading marketing mumbo-jumbo at worst.
 
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Translation: 300w might destroy a single 10.
Truth: Your single 10 will take everything the MB500 can throw at it without an issue and a second cab would make a very nice medium sized rig.
The Quilter is more powerful and you might reach the limits of the cab or cabs somewhere near the top range of its volume.....or not, RMS listings are vague at best and misleading marketing mumbo-jumbo at worst.
A 500w amp all out? I don't think so.
 
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IME the typical result when trying to push too little speaker/cab, too hard (Watts/EQ-wise) to get more volume and/or or more bass than the deeign can safely produce gets you into a thermal compression death cycle and/or causes mechanical failure. IMO some of these well-desigend 110's are so impressive at low to medium volume that we forget that they're not a 212, 215 or 410 when the band volume goes up.

I think many folks figure if a guitar player can deafen the band with a 110 or 112, why wouldn't a bass 110 or even 112 be able to do the same thing. Frequency spectrum difference has a lot to do with it, but the botom line is that unless you have enough rig for the gig, you risk damaging your gear when you inevitably push it beyond its deisgn limitations. I suspect that few of us in the heat of the moment are listening carefully enough or responding quickly enough to protect ourslves from a bad plan in the first place.

YMMV, but I wouldn't count on it varying enough to save your gear every time. As a final thought, even a 215 or 410 can be too little rig for some gigs, so this is not a knock on 110 bass cabs - I own and happily use an Eden EX-110.
 
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The MB500 can only produce a max 350w @ 8ohm. :meh:
The second cab the O.P. is drooling over will enable the full 500w from the head. :)

350W all out into a 300W cab is still a problem.

Cabs are often rated on the thermal limits of the driver's voice coil, rather than the driver's mechanical limits which varies with cabinet design/tuning. A 300W driver should handle a 350W amp playing all out with mid band energy with no problems. Mid band energy is not going to cause the driver use up much of it's excursion, and the duty cycle is going to be low enough that the average power will most likely be well under 300W.

The problem is the mechanical limit at certain frequencies under 100hz for many designs are often less than the RMS rating of the driver. Also, the mechanical power handling will drop of steeply below the port tuning frequency (Fb) of the design. So, if your going to push a cab to the limit with low frequencies, it's a really good idea to use an HPF to limit the amount of power you send below Fb.

Mesa is about the only musical instrument company I can think of that tells you anything about the mechanical power handling limits of their designs.

If you go to Part Express, you can check out the Eminence professional drivers, and most of them will include spec sheets and cab design documents that will show you exactly what I am talking about.

I have attached the spec sheet and cab design document for the 3012HO for your review.
 

Attachments

...and just to add to the caution, the GK MB tests I've seen indicate that the the MB heads easily put out their rated power plus a little extra. It's also worth noting that the MB heads are a tad bass (and treble) rich (slightly mid-scooped) with the EQ knobs set at noon.

The bottom line is that with the MB 500 you get emphasized bass with plenty-o-power on tap. Besides reading the reviews I also own an MB 500.
 
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Can I chime in with a question? I'm thinking of getting an Ampeg PF-350 or a PF-500 (500w at 4ohms, 300w at 8 ohms). Both heads are 4 ohms, I believe. Right now, I have a single Hartke 410 cabinet 300 watts, 8 ohms. So my 8 ohm cab with the PF-500 would theoretically be producing 300 watts. But, I'm thinking my cab, even though its rated for 300 watts, may not able to handle fairly loud volumes, as I play metal. So, do we always want to have a cab with a higher wattage rating than the head? Would I wreck my 300 watt cab with the PF-500 blazing out Black Sabbath at 300 watts? Thanks!