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8x10 + 2x15???

You'll have to excuse the obligatory TB grandpas who lurk in these parts; they occasionally escape their cages just long enough to furrow their brows in disdain at things they do not understand, and hence fear. Their sole intent is to stop you from having fun, and they can safely be ignored.

Back to the shadows with ye, grandpa! This rig will be glorious to behold!

Re: phasing issues - split your signal and apply a severe highpass to the signal going to the 215 rig and severe lowpass to the signal going to the 810. You'll have virtually nullified any phasing issues regardless of cab placement. You may even be able to get away with it just using the two amps' EQs alone (i.e. bass dimed and treble at 0 for one and reverse on the other, with mids dialed to taste).

Or stack them vertically so you can pierce the eye of God with your javelin from the top!
ROFLMFAO. Biamping those two cabs is about as sensible as Airplane!12. You could get better performance out of a 1x10 on top of the 8x10.

Running one each side of the stage guarantees lumpy boomy phase filtered nonsense, even with identical cabs.

OP, loud doesn't equal good unless you only care about loud. I like loud AND good.

Sound does not blend by adding 1 plus 1 to get 2.
 
Uh huh... :rolleyes:

Except that D.A.R.K. wasn't referring to speaker design. He was referring to the enclosure size and the tuning. As he stated. :eyebrow:

MM

And how is enclosure size and tuning not a part of speaker design? (Unless you're confusing "speakers" with "drivers" that is.)

And look, I can roll my eyes too, see? :rolleyes:

And here's an eyebrow, thrown in for good measure: :eyebrow:
 
To make it remarkable simple for the OP:
810/215 CONCEPT=good; reality, notsomuch.
810+810 reality= best.
Or 215/215, but you already have a badass 810 (love the VBs, and the VB3 heads too).
If you end up with a VB215, run it on the opposite side of the stage.

Cheers to VOLUME and TONE!

Well, it still depends...

Is the 215 tuned lower than the 810?

Are you using a crossover?

And last but not least: What's the sensitivity of the cabs? This often gets overlooked here on TB when blanket statements like "a 410 will always be louder than a 115" are thrown around. Well, what if the 410 has a sensitivity of 90db/1w/1m and the 115 has a sensitivity of 100db/1w/1m? Sure, the 410 might be able to handle more watts than the 115, but power handling does not equate to loudness...
 
I currently run a Peavey Tour 700 into a Peavey VB-810. If you haven't tried either of these products they're incredible. Personally I prefer the cabinet over an Ampeg SVT-810e. It's ridiculously deep sounding... Anyway I was thinking about getting another cabinet (Peavey VB-215) and another matching Peavey Tour 700 head. I'd be putting them upright next to each other and I was wondering if you guys think it would sound better to get a 2x15 to add some roundness or get another 8x10 to match the other one.

It's a tough choice. Another 810 would make sense, but the VB-215 handles almost double the power (1400 watts for the 215 vs. 800 for the 810), however you can't take advantage of the power handling of the VB-215 with a Tour 700 amp. You might consider two of the VB-215's and perhaps two SVT-4Pros to get the full capacity of the VB-215's.

Probably best to go with another VB-810 & Tour 700, but keep in mind, the VB-810 will handle 800 watts and the Tour 700 will only get up to 700 watts into a four ohm load. You have capacity for 100 more watts into each speaker. You don't want to leave anything on the table....
 
It's a tough choice. Another 810 would make sense, but the VB-215 handles almost double the power (1400 watts for the 215 vs. 800 for the 810), however you can't take advantage of the power handling of the VB-215 with a Tour 700 amp. You might consider two of the VB-215's and perhaps two SVT-4Pros to get the full capacity of the VB-215's.

Probably best to go with another VB-810 & Tour 700, but keep in mind, the VB-810 will handle 800 watts and the Tour 700 will only get up to 700 watts into a four ohm load. You have capacity for 100 more watts into each speaker. You don't want to leave anything on the table....
Um. No. That's not how it works.

You don't have to squeeze every drop of power into your cab that it can possibly handle and constantly ride it just on the edge of wrecking the speakers.

My cab, according to the speakers in it, can handle 400 watts. I run a head that puts out 180 watts (clean). As long as the cab can handle the power your head puts out, it's fine. Matching the exact power output to the exact power handling is completely unnecessary, and really a bit of a stupid idea, considering that most cabs use thermal ratings for their power handling specs, when in reality the drivers will fart out from overexcursion at less than that (oftentimes... some companies are more honest about the realistic power handling of their cabs than others... there's no real standard).