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90's Peavey Fury refinish

#21
Thanks for all the gluing advice, guys. I'll be making a trip to the store tomorrow for glue and more sandpaper.

JustForSport, thanks for confirming that. I was planning on doing some more sanding because it doesn't feel like bare wood. I've got to make a final decision on which dye to use and place that order. A friend strongly recommended TransTint, but ReRanch also seems like a good option. I've also decided to try to wait until I've got my color on to make sure I still want a black fretboard.
 
#22
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I'm finally resurrecting this thread as I've had a chance to actually get my hands on it again. Overthe last couple months I've just been collecting the rest of the parts I need. I purchased a detail sander a few days ago to get through the sand sealer, and today I was able to start the dye process.

I thought I had it all the way down to bare wood, but I will have to go back around a lot of the contours with the finger attachment to get the remaining spots.
 
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#24
sirsam22 said:
So, I went back over the whole body with 240 grit and the spots not taking any stain with 120, and I may have made it worse. There are other areas that seem to not be absorbing any/much, and the top has some whitish patches.

Help, please!
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I doubt it was left over finish that was causing it to not take stain, it is the glue that soaked through the veneer. There is a reason these are a solid color body. You are better off going back with a solid color
 
#25
I did some reading and was afraid that might be the case. I had also thought about making it a purpleburst. Is there a black finish that would cover the water based stain well and not react with it? And, would I need to put a layer of laquer between the two?

I was really wanting to do an oil finish, but I could laquer if it's necessary.
 
#27
sirsam22 said:
I did some reading and was afraid that might be the case. I had also thought about making it a purpleburst. Is there a black finish that would cover the water based stain well and not react with it? And, would I need to put a layer of laquer between the two?

I was really wanting to do an oil finish, but I could laquer if it's necessary.
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The stain should be compatible with any finish you wish to use.
 
#29
I had thought about adding dye to the clear, but I feel like I'm getting the depth of color I wanted out of the dye on the bare wood. I decided to go the burst route. I purchase Minwax sealer, poly plus black stain to het the edges, and clear gloss poly to finish. I plan on building a custom bass over the summer that I'll do the dye/oil finish on. This also has been my first attempt, and I'm getting a lot of good experience in.

I'll update with pics next week. I had to take a break this week to fix my dryer and lawnmower. Good stuff.
 
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#30
sirsam22 said:
I had thought about adding dye to the clear, but I feel like I'm getting the depth of color I wanted out of the dye on the bare wood. I decided to go the burst route. I purchase Minwax sealer, poly plus black stain to het the edges, and clear gloss poly to finish. I plan on building a custom bass over the summer that I'll do the dye/oil finish on. This also has been my first attempt, and I'm getting a lot of good experience in.

I'll update with pics next week. I had to take a break this week to fix my dryer and lawnmower. Good stuff.
Click to expand...

Black stain won't cover those bare spots any better than the purple, because you can't stain glue. You need to spray it with a trans black clear to do it correctly.
 

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