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9v battery for active bass
- Thread starter UrthCrimson
- Start date
Many (I Don’t know if all) Lithium battery/battery packs have a built in “switch”. A simple tiny one transistor
Circuit that switches the output to off to prevent overheating when the voltage goes dangerously(for some devices) low.
It drives tradesmen crazy when they’re on a 8’ ladder in the middle of making a 2” hole and the drill comes to a dead stop with the saw stuck in the wall.
Down the ladder we go to get a fresh battery to finish the job.
This is an old thread so I didn't read all the replies, or very many of them. Hopefully I'm not repeating earlier advice.
A lot or products are sold at higher prices with more marketing hype. Some batteries will be better than others, but sometimes it is a matter of experience. The most important thing is knowing when to change batteries. But that's simple: Get a multi-meter so you can test the remaining voltage yourself. When the voltage starts to drop below 9v it's time to think about changing. Here ya go... $6... Invalid Link Removed
Rechargeables can work but they start out at a lower voltage than alkalines. I used to go that route but now I just use regular Amazon batteries or whatever has good reviews and seems like a good value. I've run out of battery power on a gig once so I've learned my lesson. Luckily I was able to switch into passive mode and was ok. I check the voltage every gig or two and have extra batteries with me.
A lot or products are sold at higher prices with more marketing hype. Some batteries will be better than others, but sometimes it is a matter of experience. The most important thing is knowing when to change batteries. But that's simple: Get a multi-meter so you can test the remaining voltage yourself. When the voltage starts to drop below 9v it's time to think about changing. Here ya go... $6... Invalid Link Removed
Rechargeables can work but they start out at a lower voltage than alkalines. I used to go that route but now I just use regular Amazon batteries or whatever has good reviews and seems like a good value. I've run out of battery power on a gig once so I've learned my lesson. Luckily I was able to switch into passive mode and was ok. I check the voltage every gig or two and have extra batteries with me.
Was also true back in the 80's and early 90's when I was running wireless bass and headset mic. They may have generally been only 7.2V even, but that was a long time ago.
The lower voltages wouldn't run either transmitter satisfactorily, but I was able to find some "true" 9V (9.6) rechargeables back then.
Looks as though they may still exist.
I never used rechargeables in my active bass, but the way two wireless units ate their way through them, at least back then, rechargeables were a must.
Whatever works for me. Most of my basses last for months of years on one 9V alkaline. I've stocked up because I own several active basses but the fact is I've had to throw some out because they went dead before I ever needed them (10 + years)! They draw no current when not in use. The only bass I have now that even comes close to being a battery hog is my Enfield Lionheart, but that has LEDs on the pups.
The Bar Band Bassman
The Bar Band Bassman
Just a note for accuracy, but batteries do not produce noise, and anyone making such a claim should be avoided.
I've weighed out cost and longevity and decided to just use the el cheapo Dollar Tree 9v that costs $1.25 in my basses. Every 2 string changes I'll go ahead and check the voltage with a multimeter.
This has worked out well for me. Sure the expensive ones last longer, but not worth it to me.
Wait - nobody has asked yet? I thought this was required! Traditional!
What's the best battery for metal?
What's the best battery for metal?
Last edited:
Outstanding response and reference to Monster. They are real jerks.As an electrical engineer I'm trying to understand how one battery could be lower noise than another. Is it made by Monster?
All gigging electric bassists should carry a small utility kit with:
Check the battery voltage with the cable plugged in. Occasionally batteries can read a decent voltage that drops within seconds after putting a power load on it. I always test mine before a recording session or major gig.
But one time my DVD player remote stopped working when it had worked only seconds before. Opened it up, and one of the AA batteries (Ray-O-Vac) had just exploded and begun leaking. (Had this happen with several Ray-O-Vac AA and AAA batteries from one batch and will never ever buy any of those again, but have never seen a 9v battery of any brand leak.)
The Harbor Freight multimeters are adequate for gigging, but make sure to test it. HF used to occasionally give them away free with another purchase and I ended up with three. Used one and left other two hanging in garage. When I grabbed one much later, the terminals inside were already broken. The precision is adequate but they are really cheaply-built and fragile and sound reinforcement pros will almost always have an expensive and amazingly tough Fluke.
Well, lithium is itself a metal, so that's my first guess.
Phillips screwdrivers - #1 & #2
Flat-blade screwdrivers - 1/8" and 1/4"
Small flashlight
Needle-nose pliers w/ wire cutter
Knife
Electrical tape
Duct tape
Multimeter
Some 8" wire-ties
(I've needed every one of those on a gig at least once)Flat-blade screwdrivers - 1/8" and 1/4"
Small flashlight
Needle-nose pliers w/ wire cutter
Knife
Electrical tape
Duct tape
Multimeter
Some 8" wire-ties
Most likely the battery was marginal before you started. I begin to hear a little bit of distortion on my Lakland preamp at about 7.8 volts.
Check the battery voltage with the cable plugged in. Occasionally batteries can read a decent voltage that drops within seconds after putting a power load on it. I always test mine before a recording session or major gig.
But one time my DVD player remote stopped working when it had worked only seconds before. Opened it up, and one of the AA batteries (Ray-O-Vac) had just exploded and begun leaking. (Had this happen with several Ray-O-Vac AA and AAA batteries from one batch and will never ever buy any of those again, but have never seen a 9v battery of any brand leak.)
The Harbor Freight multimeters are adequate for gigging, but make sure to test it. HF used to occasionally give them away free with another purchase and I ended up with three. Used one and left other two hanging in garage. When I grabbed one much later, the terminals inside were already broken. The precision is adequate but they are really cheaply-built and fragile and sound reinforcement pros will almost always have an expensive and amazingly tough Fluke.
Yeah, I prefer not to do business with people who BS me, who are laughing at the maroons who believed that crap as they fulfill their orders.
There are several battery plants in China, you can buy Chinese batteries at Harbor Freight. You're right in general though, a lot of off-brand and store-brand products are actually manufactured by the more famous brands. Sometimes with cheaper materials, sometimes equally as good.
Well, lithium is itself a metal, so that's my first guess.
Ah, I miss Radio Shack - could go buy a resistor or capacitor or switch w/o paying $7.99 shipping and waiting 2 days.
You must love bunniesI always felt that Energizers sounded better than Duracells, a more pleasing top end ,less harsh, sustain for days, makes the bass play like butter with less dead spots and better balance on a strap, if you’re playing a Stingray though you’re better off with a Ray-O- Vac
