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A little truss rod problem.

Hello,

I have a Squire Jazz Bass from 2010. It served me very well and I am very proud of it. But now I have a problem with its neck, and I think its a truss rod problem.

Earlier this year I observed that the string action got higher, not too much, but enough to make my fingers very tired after a one hour gig. I tried to fix the problem with the truss rod, but the truss rod won't move. I tried harder and harder but it won't move. I haven't tried anything else, because I didn't want to destroy its neck. Now I am asking you: how can I make that truss rod work for me? Maybe with some oil or grease?

The gap is like the last one, from the bottom of this picture: Link Removed

Every help would be deeply appreciated!
 
What model Squier?

Loosen the tension of the strings substantially, then stand the bass between your feet, one foot to front and one to back while seated, front of bass towards right knee ... Press your inner right knee in towards the body/heel of neck, as you apply slight pressure on the back of the headstock .. Your intent here is to completely unload the pressure on the truss rod nut as you press firmly downward while turning the truss rod wrench COUNTER CLOCKWISE to attempt to loosen ...

... Make sure you are using the perfect size Allen wrench, and as mentioned above, be firm, but do not force it beyond reason ... If this doesn't work, then repost ... Once you have the nut off you can consider lubricating, but we can address that once off ... I do not like to lubricate with any type oil and nut installed, it softens the wood at point of contact against the truss nut ...

... Squier Standard and VM should be using a 4mm allen wrench, CV should be 5mm from my experience with the ones I have had ... I have not needed to adjust an Affinity, so not sure there ...
 
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If the basic set-up guides didn't work for you try this. This method gives you low actions and reduced fret buzz.

To begin this set-up, lower all bridge saddles and loosen the truss rod to give it some relief, about a credit
cards depth.

Part A:
1. Place a capo at the 12th fret
2. Raise the saddle for each string just until the fret buzz subsides (or disappears) from the 12th thru the 20th
fret.

From here on, there should very little, if any, fret buzz from the 12th to the 20th fret when playing. The bridge
saddles have a greater influence on the actions and fret buzz from the 12th to the 20th.
But we're not done, let us focus on the 1st thru the 12th frets.

Part B:
3. Remove the capo and loosen up all the strings.
4. tighten your trussrod (righty tighty motion looking down the neck from the headstock) only a half turn. That is one motion from the 'G' string to the 'E' string (or 'B' on 5 stringers).

5. re-tune the bass to pitch.
6. If there is no fret buzz from the 1st thru the 10th fret, repeat Part B starting with step 3 until you get the
slightest bet of buzz then go to step 7.

7. Loosen the trussrod just a quarter turn, that is a motion from the 'E' string to the 'D' string.
8. Repeat step 7 until the buzz is gone. A slight buzzing is no big deal to me IMO.

I have used this method for my Ibanez SR300, Fender Jazz and Squier Affinity Jazz and got very low actions with very little, to none, fret buzz. It breaks up the set-up process by half the time and eliminates the back-n-forth from the truss rod and the bridge adjustments.
 
Take the nut all the way out and see what's going on in there. Clean out the threads, apply a bit of oil, stick a washer in there and retry. If you're going to get a new neck, it's worth a try.
I tried to apply some oil, a little bit, but it seems only to move in the direction that gives relief to the neck. In the other direction it won't budge. I think I'll buy a new neck...