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Achieving a thick, clear poly finish

B

BassUrges

Mar 14, 2016
1,336
3,042
Denver
#1
I'm working on a couple of guitar stands with fancy veneer as a preparation to tackling a bass build. I want both to have a thick clear finish, and the stands are a good chance to experiment. I have bought a little bit of pour-on bar-top finish, and in early tests on scraps it looks nice and is as thick as I'd like, but I have doubts about the ability to achieve an even coat of suffocient thickness on a curved bass top. It's also kind of soft and scratchable. I have considered brushing or spraying poly but I'm not sure how many coats it would take or how I'd keep 10 or 15 successive layers dust-free.

Any tips from the experienced?
 
#6
There are a lot of finishes that "work" and work pretty well. The main thing seems to be picking one and figuring it out. I have no problem with the 2 part finishes and solvent based finishes, for me, however, the water based works because I spray in my garage and the water based finish has almost no odor and no need for things like explosion proof exhaust fans. Also, it can be level sanded and recoated overnight for the times when I have 2 or more days in a row to work on things.

So, research some pros and cons of different finishes and pick one and, almost undoubtedly, someone here will have some experience with it and can give some advice.
 
#9
Don’t worry, I got your meaning. I’m sure you're right that there are many considerations that I have to worry about. I just happen to have these stands with similar (but flat) surfaces that need finishing so I wanted to find some products to experiment with.

Right now I have the bar top coating and a little can of air-dry polyurethane, neither of which seems to be right for what I’m trying to do.
 
#10
I was quoted about £120 for a colour 2K finish on a bass guitar from a local car detailing place. To be honest, I would rather pay that than mess around with 2-part finishes at home. It is probably also cheaper than buying all the proper respirator gear and spraying equipment. 2K can, and will, mess you up. There are enough stories from the RC modeling and car detailing community (and the odd maverick who wears a scarf over their face and just goes for it anyway).

Bar top coating sounds a bit like Rustins Plastic Coating. I've used this once, and it is a very sensitive product. It doesn't go well over any colour finishes, it can't really be tinted itself, if you apply it too thickly or thinly it reacts badly. If you apply it too soon, or too late, after the previous coat then you encounter problems. It goes on thick and you then have a lot of wet sanding and leveling in your future. It can be sprayed apparently, but I applied it with foam brushes. It smells bad and is made of Urea Formaldehyde resins, to which some people are sensitive. This is the same finish Brian May used on his Red Special, and John Birch sprayed it onto the fretboard of Tony Iommi's famous 'Monkey' SG.

I've never seen proof that wipe on poly can achieve the same deep, bombproof finish as a factory poly finish.
 
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#12
I have a good respirator that I’ve used for years on things like airbrush metal finishing and rattle can paints in the basement bathroom (can’t spray outside in the dead of winter).

I don’t have a proper spray gun—which is why a pour-on finish appeals, if only it was hard enough. Trying to do this with an airbrush would be rather time consuming.

But really, you’ll never get me to say no to buying tools, if I know it’s going to work.
 
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#14
bobdabilder said:
You will need a respirator for the water based stuff as well. don't want that in your lungs. it's not as toxic but you shouldn't breathe it in if you're spraying.
Click to expand...


You are correct. I didn’t mean to sound like respirators and other protective equipment isn’t necessary with water based finish just that it doesn’t smell up the house and/or garage for days or weeks after spraying.
 

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