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Acme meets Meyer

mothra2

Supporting Member
Dec 23, 2006
1,780
968
I am an Acme fan. I own B2's and one B1, Class A/B driven with my Crest CA-9 through a Millennia STT-1 pre. Gotta open them up a bit for the mids and highs to come forward, but a very satisfying, natural, mid detailed and complete sound with tight, articulate bass and great transient response. I got to this point through a variety of ownerships including a Sadowsky SA-200 (smokin tube amp goodness but could not afford to keep it as as a secondary rig, as tight non-forgiving solid state is my primary), Markbass, two WW Ultra's and a few Berg's including some of the IP's (nice, but for me there is nothing like a 3-way cab for proper mids).

The Woods Ultra (m.y. 2002) into the Acme's was great until I started bypassing it's power section and using the Crest. After a while I just could not go back to the Woods class D power section, so I sold the Woods, got a used Millennia STT-1 and kept the change. What a pre THAT is...class A slam...wow!

Anyway, I have always been concerned that under certain live situations that the Acme's might not have enough cut. You can certainly boost the mids and highs a bit with excellent results and I cut from 50 Hz down just like everyone else, but I'm talking about that occasional extreme departure from near flat when required. I did try the rare Berg 3 way, which actually IMO was tonally quite similar to the Acme with the STT-1 (you'd be surprised...says a lot for Andy's passive design against a DSP) and certainly had the ability for greater extreme EQ response with that fine 6 inch mid driver and large bullet tweeter...but alas those class D amps...better, IMO than the Woods amp section but still no CA-9. You can hear the lows, but not feel them with the same weighty foundational anchor of the CA-9. A bit hollow by comparison (odd that even with cutting the lows significantly for tightness, class D vs class A/B is still quite apparent).

Enter the Meyer sound UPA-1P. Built like a brick. About the size of one Acme but tapered on the sides resulting in a much more compact box that you can actually throw over your shoulder (even at 77lbs.. amazing what cab dimension changes can do for apparent weight). 1-12 inch driver and a horn with built in DSP and 550 watts of class A/B. I had the opportunity to use one for a couple of days so I set out to buy a crossover and relegate my Acmes to sub woofers and give it a shot.

What a rig! The Meyer on top of two side by side B2's, 1000 dedicated watts below and 550 up top. Lotsa watts. Unbelievable bass using the Acme's as pure subs. And the blend with the Meyer was fantastic.And talk about projection. I have always been aware (on paper so to speak) of what a load low frequencies are to an amp and drivers. In this setup, all the Acme's were handling was 40 to 80 Hz, which didn't seem like much to me, but wow, what a change when you do that (somewhere out there Bill F. is rolling his eyes and saying NO S**T Sherlock). This rig offered substantial improvements in nmany areas over my straight Acme rig, as well it should have. More watts, division of labor, a horn for better focus and projection and Meyer Sound labs DSP work on the UPA-1P/amp integration. ...Not an overwhelming physical footprint either, weight aside (which was quite modular).

A bit about the bi-amping. I crossed over at 80 Hz.Listening to just the lows or just the low mids/highs it was hard to wrap my brain around the end result of the two together. Definitly a case where the sum is greater than the parts. It's really difficult to appreciate without doing it for yourself, but the result was a tight, focused, articulate, full, weighty, slammin sound. And did I say articulate?

In the end, I could not get past the horn and that bit it took away from the mids. Lost a bit of burp and gained a bit of grind. Since I am a big Fender Jazz fan this was a tough trade off to accept. If I were doing large venue gigs with big stages (where this aspect of mid character might be buried anyway) this set up would be a keeper.
But for my gig venues, I will stick with the Acmes. What a tremendous learning experience though.

As always, all of the above is strictly I.M.O.

Next up, I will use my B1 crossed over at 80 Hz (to free it up from all that bass load) along with the 2 B2's full range and see what that yields for versatility....

Update1: The B1 experiment definitly has legs. When run full range it just sounds like more of the same(not too shabby), but crossed over at 80 Hz the sound gets more rounwound string presence, a bit more grind, has more pop and allows you to play with a lighter touch, while still retaining that Acme sound. Just takes some of the 'felt' off. And this is with just cutting the lows below 50 Hz as usual. More to follow here especially after experimenting with a touch of mid/high boost. Could become the ultimate 'verticle stack'.

Update2: My favorite biamped combo is one B2 for the lows crossed at 80Hz, and one B2 for the mid/highs. I like this much better than two full range B2's and the one B1 crossed for 80Hz and above. can't explain it, it's less efficient (got to turn up for equivilant SPL to the straight sound,and maybe drop back the bass cut 1 click if you EQ that way) but sounds REALLY good. I do suspect that a more ideal crossover point can be realized, however the one I have is fixed at 80 hz. I plan to get the DBX and experiment with this further.

I've got to imagine that there are a lot of B2 users out there using a CA-9 or some other stereo amp. If you fit that description, you owe it to yourself to pick up a cheap crossover (DBX $180 new) and try this. What a great alternative setup for really short money. Cleans everything up a notch and adds tighter authority to the sound, improves the burp and projection. The nice thing here is that you can bypass the crossover at anytme on the fly for the straight sound.

Update3: :hiding: MY ERROR. MEYER CONCLUSION INCOMPLETE. ROOKIE BIAMPING MISTAKE.
After further biamp experimentation with my Acmes, I discovered that I inadvertently created a 'saddle' dip in the high bass by over cutting the lows instead of backing off the dedicated bass amp. Trying to follow the E.Q. rule of cut over boost I spent my time trying to cut the higher end frequencies to balance the perceived grind over burp, when it turns out that the bass imbalance that I created was the culprit. The above Meyer conclusion is rendered inaccurate. Fortunately I have my own used Meyer UPA-1P on the way that I got real cheap (no rental time constraints), so more to follow there.

Final Update:
While it's true that I had created a saddle in the E.Q. via subs/midhigh balancing, after correcting for this mistake I find that I have only reduced, but not eliminated the perceived grind over burp with the Meyer, so I still stand by my original observations. Also, I find that I am losing some mid-range complexity.
As far as the Meyer goes, this does not work for me. It’s a great sound for sure, but not as a near field monitor. Certain tonal aspects seem to be sacrificed for projection (which the Meyer does very well). For me, just can't get away from that horn. I guess my stages aren't big enough...:>).
 
Nice stuff!!!!

I guess my only comments are that I too was rather underwhelmed with the low end response of the Walter Ultra when pushed, and prefer a couple of the newer SMPS amps out there at this point.

And, I've always been much more impressed with the low end of the Acme cabs than the mids and highs once you get them cranked in a mix. Your results don't surprise me there. They are GREAT sub boxes IMO and IME, and putting something with a little more upper mid and treble power (i.e., a cab with a more traditional horn) makes much sense to me if you need that big, wide tone.

Very cool!
 
Another Acme fan here. I also have the B2/CA9 combo and love it. My eventual goal is to drive it with a Great River ME1-NV and EQ1-NV but lately I've been quite satisfied using a Groove Tubes Brick or an FMR RNP for a front end gain booster. I bet yours sounds amazing with the STT-1.

Thanks for the comparison writeup.
 
Another Acme fan here. I also have the B2/CA9 combo and love it. My eventual goal is to drive it with a Great River ME1-NV and EQ1-NV but lately I've been quite satisfied using a Groove Tubes Brick or an FMR RNP for a front end gain booster. I bet yours sounds amazing with the STT-1.

Thanks for the comparison writeup.

Indeed it does....AMAZING preamp. Not a big fan of the tube section though. Perhaps the tubes are just too old, but I really have no use for it compared to the crisp, full and immediate SS section.
 
Hey Mothra

What do you set your Acme B2 Mids and Highs on the back cabinet?

Mine are almost all the way turned up and I back off just a tad with both.

I found better results when I turn up the highs on the Acme.
 
Hey Mothra

What do you set your Acme B2 Mids and Highs on the back cabinet?

Mine are almost all the way turned up and I back off just a tad with both.

I found better results when I turn up the highs on the Acme.

Wide Open...Always (you are not 'turning them up' you are simply not attenuating them).
 
Awesome. The one thing I have to add is that I've found Acmes sound best highpassed at 30Hz, not 50Hz. Due to their low tuning this increases maximum LF SPL and reduces distortion because the port can take more of the load which jn turn reduces woofer excursion.

In other words when you hit a low B the bottom is shared more evenly between the 31Hz fundamental and the 62Hz 2nd harmonic. With a conventionally tuned cab the 31Hz output would massively increase cone excursion thus increasing distortion thus increasing mid-bass boom. With an Acme the 31Hz output is achieved with almost zero cone excursion (because at the tuning frequency almost 100% of the output is from the port) which leaves the woofer free to just deal with the 62Hz and up output and because you've got the 31Hz output adding fatness you don't need as much 62Hz output.

Alex
 
The 'experiment' sounds unnecessarily cumbersome in weight. I'd suggest taking the passive ACME crossover out, use the DBX 3 way crossover and feed the drivers within the box individually with your CA-9 driving the woofer and a smaller stereo power amp feeding your mid and audax tweeter in the Acme.
 
The 'experiment' sounds unnecessarily cumbersome in weight. I'd suggest taking the passive ACME crossover out, use the DBX 3 way crossover and feed the drivers within the box individually with your CA-9 driving the woofer and a smaller stereo power amp feeding your mid and audax tweeter in the Acme.


One could take that approach if you were gigging with 1 Acme????

As an Acme/Acme biamping, all I'm adding to the equation is a crossover box.

As an Acme/Meyer biamping, thats a whole other beast with much bigger aspirations. Huge output and increased projection by just adding the crossover box and 1 (self powered) Meyer cab that is actually smaller than the Acme B2. Although heavier, you really can throw the Meyer over your shoulder to carry it, due to it's shape. I would never try that with the Acme or the Crest even though both weigh considerably less.

Lots of ways to go here, though.
 
Awesome. The one thing I have to add is that I've found Acmes sound best highpassed at 30Hz, not 50Hz. Due to their low tuning this increases maximum LF SPL and reduces distortion because the port can take more of the load which jn turn reduces woofer excursion.

In other words when you hit a low B the bottom is shared more evenly between the 31Hz fundamental and the 62Hz 2nd harmonic. With a conventionally tuned cab the 31Hz output would massively increase cone excursion thus increasing distortion thus increasing mid-bass boom. With an Acme the 31Hz output is achieved with almost zero cone excursion (because at the tuning frequency almost 100% of the output is from the port) which leaves the woofer free to just deal with the 62Hz and up output and because you've got the 31Hz output adding fatness you don't need as much 62Hz output.

Alex

Wow! Interesting and very informative. (I'm not quite high passing at 50 Hz (gentler than that) but I see where you're going there) I will definitely experiment with that.
 
Great information here. I usually use a Woods Ultra through an Acme B2, and it sounds very good, but I agree that I've had slightly better results for bass guitar with other solid state amps. One recurring problem since I switched to the Woods has been that the fuse blows on the Acme quite frequently (once every few months or so), even when used at extremely low volumes. I've had the same problem with both of my Acme B2's, and also using different speaker cables, so it must have something to do with the Woods. Replacing the fuse on an ACME is a real pain in the butt, and it gets frustrating, but I have yet to determine the cause. The only thing I can think of is that somehow there is a power surge from the Woods when powering up or down. Anybody else had this problem?
 
It's not that hard to replace the bulb with the polyswitch Andy now offers but it's quite strange that your WW is blowing the bulb - in my experience the only thing that blows the bulb is pushing a powerful amp into clipping, high frequency mic feedback or really loud distorted effects usage. Does the WW make a fizzing noise when powering up or down? That could cause it if it's loud enough.

Alex
 
I am an Acme fan. I own B2's and one B1, Class A/B driven with my Crest CA-9 through a Millennia STT-1 pre. Gotta open them up a bit for the mids and highs to come forward, but a very satisfying, natural, mid detailed and complete sound with tight, articulate bass and great transient response. I got to this point through a variety of ownerships including a Sadowsky SA-200 (smokin tube amp goodness but could not afford to keep it as as a secondary rig, as tight non-forgiving solid state is my primary), Markbass, two WW Ultra's and a few Berg's including some of the IP's (nice, but for me there is nothing like a 3-way cab for proper mids).

The Woods Ultra (m.y. 2002) into the Acme's was great until I started bypassing it's power section and using the Crest. After a while I just could not go back to the Woods class D power section, so I sold the Woods, got a used Millennia STT-1 and kept the change. What a pre THAT is...class A slam...wow!

Anyway, I have always been concerned that under certain live situations that the Acme's might not have enough cut. You can certainly boost the mids and highs a bit with excellent results and I cut from 50 Hz down just like everyone else, but I'm talking about that occasional extreme departure from near flat when required. I did try the rare Berg 3 way, which actually IMO was tonally quite similar to the Acme with the STT-1 (you'd be surprised...says a lot for Andy's passive design against a DSP) and certainly had the ability for greater extreme EQ response with that fine 6 inch mid driver and large bullet tweeter...but alas those class D amps...better, IMO than the Woods amp section but still no CA-9. You can hear the lows, but not feel them with the same weighty foundational anchor of the CA-9. A bit hollow by comparison (odd that even with cutting the lows significantly for tightness, class D vs class A/B is still quite apparent).

Enter the Meyer sound UPA-1P. Built like a brick. About the size of one Acme but tapered on the sides resulting in a much more compact box that you can actually throw over your shoulder (even at 77lbs.. amazing what cab dimension changes can do for apparent weight). 1-12 inch driver and a horn with built in DSP and 550 watts of class A/B. I had the opportunity to use one for a couple of days so I set out to buy a crossover and relegate my Acmes to sub woofers and give it a shot.

What a rig! The Meyer on top of two side by side B2's, 1000 dedicated watts below and 550 up top. Lotsa watts. Unbelievable bass using the Acme's as pure subs. And the blend with the Meyer was fantastic.And talk about projection. I have always been aware (on paper so to speak) of what a load low frequencies are to an amp and drivers. In this setup, all the Acme's were handling was 40 to 80 Hz, which didn't seem like much to me, but wow, what a change when you do that (somewhere out there Bill F. is rolling his eyes and saying NO S**T Sherlock). This rig offered substantial improvements in nmany areas over my straight Acme rig, as well it should have. More watts, division of labor, a horn for better focus and projection and Meyer Sound labs DSP work on the UPA-1P/amp integration. ...Not an overwhelming physical footprint either, weight aside (which was quite modular).

A bit about the bi-amping. I crossed over at 80 Hz.Listening to just the lows or just the low mids/highs it was hard to wrap my brain around the end result of the two together. Definitly a case where the sum is greater than the parts. It's really difficult to appreciate without doing it for yourself, but the result was a tight, focused, articulate, full, weighty, slammin sound. And did I say articulate?

In the end, I could not get past the horn and that bit it took away from the mids. Lost a bit of burp and gained a bit of grind. Since I am a big Fender Jazz fan this was a tough trade off to accept. If I were doing large venue gigs with big stages (where this aspect of mid character might be buried anyway) this set up would be a keeper.
But for my gig venues, I will stick with the Acmes. What a tremendous learning experience though.

As always, all of the above is strictly I.M.O.

Next up, I will use my B1 crossed over at 80 Hz (to free it up from all that bass load) along with the 2 B2's full range and see what that yields for versatility....

Update1: The B1 experiment definitly has legs. When run full range it just sounds like more of the same(not too shabby), but crossed over at 80 Hz the sound gets more rounwound string presence, a bit more grind, has more pop and allows you to play with a lighter touch, while still retaining that Acme sound. Just takes some of the 'felt' off. And this is with just cutting the lows below 50 Hz as usual. More to follow here especially after experimenting with a touch of mid/high boost. Could become the ultimate 'verticle stack'.

Update2: My favorite biamped combo is one B2 for the lows crossed at 80Hz, and one B2 for the mid/highs. I like this much better than two full range B2's and the one B1 crossed for 80Hz and above. can't explain it, it's less efficient (got to turn up for equivilant SPL to the straight sound,and maybe drop back the bass cut 1 click if you EQ that way) but sounds REALLY good. I do suspect that a more ideal crossover point can be realized, however the one I have is fixed at 80 hz. I plan to get the DBX and experiment with this further.

I've got to imagine that there are a lot of B2 users out there using a CA-9 or some other stereo amp. If you fit that description, you owe it to yourself to pick up a cheap crossover (DBX $150 new) and try this. What a great alternative setup for really short money. Cleans everything up a notch and adds tighter authority to the sound, improves the burp and projection. The nice thing here is that you can bypass the crossover at anytme on the fly for the straight sound.

Update3: :hiding: MY ERROR. MEYER CONCLUSION INCOMPLETE. ROOKIE BIAMPING MISTAKE.
After further biamp experimentation with my Acmes, I discovered that I inadvertently created a 'saddle' dip in the high bass by over cutting the lows instead of backing off the dedicated bass amp. Trying to follow the E.Q. rule of cut over boost I spent my time trying to cut the higher end frequencies to balance the perceived grind over burp, when it turns out that the bass imbalance that I created was the culprit. The above Meyer conclusion is rendered inaccurate. Fortunately I have my own used Meyer UPA-1P on the way that I got real cheap (no rental time constraints), so more to follow there.

i think i just wet myself...







and where are me pics?!?!?!?
 
It's not that hard to replace the bulb with the polyswitch Andy now offers but it's quite strange that your WW is blowing the bulb - in my experience the only thing that blows the bulb is pushing a powerful amp into clipping, high frequency mic feedback or really loud distorted effects usage. Does the WW make a fizzing noise when powering up or down? That could cause it if it's loud enough.

Alex

I wonder if there's an issue with the output filter on that Woods. That could allow some ultrasonic stuff to pass through the tweeter (i.e. the carrier for the PWM) which wouldn't be audible but could sure burn out tweeter fuses.
 
The UPA/ACME combination is actually triamped because the UPA is internally biamped. You should try it with a Meyer USW1 if you want some seriously impressive results. :D That's the sub designed to be used with the UPA so all the processing matches up. The Meyer stuff is class AB but it all uses SMPS, which is typically where people's complaints about lightweight amps reside.

I'm also not sure how you could ascertain that the lack of low end thwack from the Berg cab is due to the amplifier. There are a lot of other variables involved. I've got some class-D modules on my bench that put some very well respected class-AB amps to shame in terms of overall performance, including low end thwack. I'm using conventional power supplies right now, but I'm planning to experiment with some SMPS to see how they stack up.
 
I wonder if there's an issue with the output filter on that Woods. That could allow some ultrasonic stuff to pass through the tweeter (i.e. the carrier for the PWM) which wouldn't be audible but could sure burn out tweeter fuses.

Yes, that's the mystery....the fuse goes when using it at very low volumes, with no real transient peaks or audible noises which could account for it. The only noticeable noise my Woods makes is a quiet little "pop" when it finishes powering down. When I first picked it up from Walter, he told me that is normal. I am now very careful not to plug in or unplug my bass from the amp when it's turned on, even though that doesn't make a noticeable noise either.

BTW, the Woods does sound fantastic for upright bass.
 
Yes, that's the mystery....the fuse goes when using it at very low volumes, with no real transient peaks or audible noises which could account for it. The only noticeable noise my Woods makes is a quiet little "pop" when it finishes powering down. When I first picked it up from Walter, he told me that is normal. I am now very careful not to plug in or unplug my bass from the amp when it's turned on, even though that doesn't make a noticeable noise either.

BTW, the Woods does sound fantastic for upright bass.

I always had that little pop you mentioned as well. Both 2002 and 2005 builds.