Active vs. Inactive

[alaskaleftybass]

If you prefer active basses then stick to what you prefer. You don’t need a reason when it comes to personal preference.

^This.^
I switched to active basses in 2003. Before that I only owned one bass-- an Ibanez Roadstar II and the pickups were nearly as hot as actives. But moving to actives was a big revelation to me. There is a wonderful sustain and a powerful punch that works well for me.

Recently I bought a Sterling by Music Man with an active pickup. Although I'm used to three tone controls-- bass-mid-treble, the Sterling didn't need a mid control. It had plenty mids and I was able to adjust from my amp.

Agreed. Don't buy a passive just for someone else. Play what you like. Try out a Sterling, while you're at it!

 

[Jim Carr]

A Fender Rumble 350. I got a buzz that wouldn't go away when I ran direct and was told by a tech that the circuit board was fried. He said the biggest culprit was not engaging the -db limiter but also said that the line out volume was connected to the main volume as opposed to having a separate electrical path/knob which meant that every time I turned the thing on, I was doing damage to the line out signal...

Wait. Not being snarky, just can't understand.

You "fried" a circuit board because of what?

The limiter was not engaged? ("biggest culprit," but what other little ones were there, too?)
and
The master volume also raised the "line out volume?"
and
This damaged a "line out signal?"

I'm just so corn-fuzed.
How could the first thing actually happen, and how could the second thing matter or have any relevance?
The third thing seems to have been lost in translation...explain a bit more?

 

[SunByrne]

Personally, I think the way to go is a bass with passive/active switching; best of both worlds. I mostly play in passive, but if I'm trying to get a specific tone, it's nice to have the active electronics available. It does change the sound a little, even with everything set to flat, when active gets switched on, like there's just a little touch of compression. Regardless, I like to have the wider set of options.

 

[Gianni "Orlandez" Orlati]

That's the squeak sound your fingers make when you slide them on the strings. It's true that you may hear it more with an active bass because they don't lose treble over the guitar cable like passives do. But of course you can always turn down the treble knob if it's a problem.

Or use flatwound strings which don't let you loose much of the usual bass' high-end such as Chromes or TI JF344 (unless one has elected "slapping and popping" as his/her main way of playing the bass) ...

 

[nnnnnn]

That's the squeak sound your fingers make when you slide them on the strings. It's true that you may hear it more with an active bass because they don't lose treble over the guitar cable like passives do. But of course you can always turn down the treble knob if it's a problem.

So what you're saying is if I switch to a passive bass I don't have to be as careful in my fingering technique?

 

[mcnach]

Active circuitry is typically higher output than passive circuitry. This is why some amps have a -15db cut for active basses.
You can also get HOT pickups for a passive bass, like Duncan Quarter Pound pickups in both J and P styles.

there is no reason why one should prefer one over the other, it’s a matter of taste.

active = higher output is... wrong, sorry.

It is a myth that some amp manufacturers don't help erase when they label their inputs that way. The truth is there is a huge spread in outputs within each kind, and they overlap a lot. You *can* boost the low end of an active EQ equipped bass to crazy levels, usually, but that's a separate matter (and for someone like me who does not use extreme EQ, it is not something I would ever go for).
I prefer amps with a simple adjustable input gain control.

My two highest output basses were passive, by the way.

 

[whero]

Personally, I prefer passive basses. I just find it easier to find a tone I really like on them. But if you like the sound you're getting out of active basses, buy active basses. The only person you have to make happy is you.

 

[phangtonpower]

I prefer active basses myself. I like having the tone controls at my fingers—rather than having to turn around and fiddle with the amp to change the tone.

EMG's are active pickups though and not an active preamp.

 

[JakobT]

My passive AmStd P-bass is hotter than my active EBMM Classic Sabre. It varies from bass to bass, and is not necessarily dependent on whether the bass is active or passive. If the difference in volume is a problem, just turn down the volume of your active bass until it matches the level of your passive one. Then turn the volume of the amp up as needed. Problem solved.

 

[lbbc]

It's all a matter of preference. I played active basses for years. I now have a passive Carvin PJ bass (running through a Radial Tonebone Bassbone) and have the sound I've always wanted.

 

[Robus]

You wanted to upgrade from the Squier that you use when you want passive pickups. So why buy another active? I get it. Any excuse to buy another bass is a good one. Get a passive P bass. Don't think about it. Just do it.

 

[gelinas666]

I use both Active and passive basses "Live" and in "The Studio".. For "Live" I use a LED meter pedal to monitor the change in Volume between them..

 

[eastcoasteddie]

Active circuitry is typically higher output than passive circuitry. This is why some amps have a -15db cut for active basses.
You can also get HOT pickups for a passive bass, like Duncan Quarter Pound pickups in both J and P styles.

there is no reason why one should prefer one over the other, it’s a matter of taste.

 

[Kro]

A Fender Rumble 350. I got a buzz that wouldn't go away when I ran direct and was told by a tech that the circuit board was fried. He said the biggest culprit was not engaging the -db limiter but also said that the line out volume was connected to the main volume as opposed to having a separate electrical path/knob which meant that every time I turned the thing on, I was doing damage to the line out signal. This is a problem many combo amps have apparently which is a big reason I switched to a separate head unit. I use the limiter but I also made for damn sure my main volume and line out volume were separated.

I'm so confused by this I don't even know where to start. Did you purchase the amp new, or was it modded by somebody? I'm just trying to unpack things...

The line out volume was connected to the main volume... meaning that the main volume also affects the volume of the line out? I could see that being a point of frustration for many users (myself included), but it isn't an inherently bad design from a failure standpoint.

Also the dB button, unless I'm mistaken, is just a pad - it's the same as turning down the volume on your bass. I believe those amps do have a limiter, that should be engaged, in part to protect the amp (I don't believe it's de-selectable unless somebody went mucking around with it), but it isn't related to the dB button.

 

[TinIndian]

The two basses I own have active EMG pickups. I love my sound from them. When my band plays songs that require a tune-down, I play my guitar player's Squier. This is a one pickup, passive bass. I know I am not playing the best instrument in the world there, but the sound is much quieter. I have to turn my amp up just to get it back to where my active basses were.

I am considering getting another bass to replace that Squier and am inclined to go active again. Is there any reason why I should consider an inactive bass? Or more to the point, is there a reason I shouldn't rule inactive basses out?

One thing to consider. I play a mix of active and passive basses and when playing live it can be a bit of a pain because of the volume difference. To even them out I started using a clean boost pedal with the passive basses.

Works like a charm.

 

[Richard Martin]

You can also get HOT pickups for a passive bass, like Duncan Quarter Pound pickups in both J and P styles.

The Quarter Pounders really bring on the heat when they're adjusted close enough to the strings. I put them in my Jazz Aerodyne and I had to adjust the gain on everything. I had to turn the gain way down on my MXR Bass Fuzz Deluxe pedal.

 

[ctmullins]

A Fender Rumble 350. I got a buzz that wouldn't go away when I ran direct and was told by a tech that the circuit board was fried. He said the biggest culprit was not engaging the -db limiter but also said that the line out volume was connected to the main volume as opposed to having a separate electrical path/knob which meant that every time I turned the thing on, I was doing damage to the line out signal. This is a problem many combo amps have apparently which is a big reason I switched to a separate head unit. I use the limiter but I also made for damn sure my main volume and line out volume were separated.

1. Welcome to TalkBass!
2. Please don’t go back to that “tech” any more. Find a competent one, or better yet, spend some time reading old TalkBass threads and learn for yourself how all this stuff works.

 

[basslifter]

I replaced the pickup in a Mexican P-bass with a Dimarzio DP-122 and the output was much much hotter.

 

[bassfreakah]

Some pickups it can help to raise and lower them to achieve more or less volume. I have a active emg in one of my P’s and in another P i have a passive GB P bass pickup and the output is very close on both basses.
On some basses with an active pre you can set the output to equal the passive bass then you are Golden!!! And can worry about making butts shake instead of this bull. Imho
Goodluck buddy!!!!

 

[sheltjo6]

Fralin +10% are louder.

Good to know. I've tried a Lollar 5% overwound precision pickup a few years ago and it was loud too for a passive pickup.