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Adjustable bridges for ABGs

B

Beginner Bass

Jul 8, 2009
1,612
11
Round Rock, TX
www.facebook.com
Disclosures
A&R, Soulless Corporation Records
#1
Do they exist? My Dean has some intonation problems I can't figure out, and it's to the point I have trouble playing it, and don't enjoy it much. I've been thinking about getting someone to remove the frets, but I want it to be set up well, or at least, as well as can be done, first, before I do that.

So my question is, does ANYBODY make adjustable bridges for ABGs? If not, why not, and what can I do to fix my instrument's intonation troubles?

EDIT: By adjustable, I mean in the way that electrics are, w/ adjusting saddles.
 
#3
Beginner Bass said:
Do they exist? My Dean has some intonation problems I can't figure out, and it's to the point I have trouble playing it, and don't enjoy it much. I've been thinking about getting someone to remove the frets, but I want it to be set up well, or at least, as well as can be done, first, before I do that.

So my question is, does ANYBODY make adjustable bridges for ABGs? If not, why not, and what can I do to fix my instrument's intonation troubles?

EDIT: By adjustable, I mean in the way that electrics are, w/ adjusting saddles.
Click to expand...

As far as I'm aware, acoustic guitars and basses never use metal bridges like their electric cousins. Metal is simply not as good a sound transmitter as the materials commonly used as saddles in acoustic instruments.

With the typical saddle/bridge arrangement on acoustic instruments, there is usually a configuration called a "compensated saddle", which essentially has the witness point of the saddle on one side of the material or the other, depending which side gives better intonation. The accuracy and degree of intonation, however, will simply not be as accurate as the common adjustable metal bridge.

But... that hasn't stopped thousands of musical legends from creating the countless musical masterpieces we've all come to enjoy. :bassist:
 
#5
What's normally done with acoustic guitars is not to make a "adjustable" bridge, but to make a "compensated" bridge, i.e. to check and see where the correct intonation would be, then make a saddle that's offset under each string to intonate it correctly.

Typically, that just means a wide saddle that's filed so that it peaks at a different point under each string, which might not be too expensive to have made.
 
#7
Slowgypsy said:
The short answer is... saddles are simply not made from wood. The material is too soft for good sound transmittance.

Curious... you've mentioned you're not happy with the intonation on your instrument. (1) has it been properly set up? (2) have you checked intonation against a digital tuner?
Click to expand...

1) I took it to the guy at Best Buy (Perhaps not the best, but they only charged $20), and the guy said he couldn't do a thing other than adjust the truss rod (Which he did, for free)

2) Yes, it's about 15-18 cents sharp at the 12th fret.
 
#8
Beginner Bass said:
1) I took it to the guy at Best Buy (Perhaps not the best, but they only charged $20), and the guy said he couldn't do a thing other than adjust the truss rod (Which he did, for free)

2) Yes, it's about 15-18 cents sharp at the 12th fret.
Click to expand...

1 - Actually, there are lots of adjustments that can be made. Truss rod, file nut slots, adjust saddle height, check frets, etc. Basically, if all that was done was a truss rod adjustment, then really nothing was done.

2 - Not sure what 15-18 cents sharp means.

3 - Here's a thought about why your intonation might be off. If at the 12th fret, all strings are universally off, perhaps there's too much relief, or the saddle height is too high, or the nut slots aren't cut deep enough in relation to the 1st fret. I'm saying this because if the strings are a bit too high off the frets, then when fretted, the strings are traveling a distance to the frets that's far enough to cause the strings to go sharp.

4 - Again, this classic method of saddle and bridge is not perfect, but countless legendary musicians haven't let it stop them from playing fantastic music.
 
#9
Slowgypsy said:
1 - Actually, there are lots of adjustments that can be made. Truss rod, file nut slots, adjust saddle height, check frets, etc. Basically, if all that was done was a truss rod adjustment, then really nothing was done.

2 - Not sure what 15-18 cents sharp means.

3 - Here's a thought about why your intonation might be off. If at the 12th fret, all strings are universally off, perhaps there's too much relief, or the saddle height is too high, or the nut slots aren't cut deep enough in relation to the 1st fret. I'm saying this because if the strings are a bit too high off the frets, then when fretted, the strings are traveling a distance to the frets that's far enough to cause the strings to go sharp.

4 - Again, this classic method of saddle and bridge is not perfect, but countless legendary musicians haven't let it stop them from playing fantastic music.
Click to expand...
In regards to #1, let me clarify, he said there wasn't much else that he said it needed. Though it wasn't the bass tech, so it may have something to do with it.
 
#11
Beginner Bass said:
In regards to #1, let me clarify, he said there wasn't much else that he said it needed. Though it wasn't the bass tech, so it may have something to do with it.
Click to expand...

What do you think about the instruments setup? Have you done setups before? Are you truly a "beginner" or have you been playing for a few years?

If you're thinking about pulling frets, have you ever played fretless before?
 
#12
It was a one-off name I made for another forum 3 years ago, so no, I wouldn't say I'm so much a beginner, but one regret I have is that I still haven't gotten around to learning how to set up my instrument well. I haven't played fretless (Other than at my private teacher's studio once, and at stores, though I'm quite sure that wasn't what you meant), but I've played upright longer than I have electric.
 

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