Advice on a 5-String

[cornwallis89]

Thanks everyone for a lot to consider! My weekend was a lot busier than expected - sorry for the delay in getting back.

I forgot to mention I'm running into a Markbass Little Mark 250 + 2 1x15" Cabs by the way.

I'd suggest you check out Lakland Skylines

Lakland Skyline 55-01 or 55-02 fit all your criteria.

I'd love to try a Skyline. All I can seem to find around seem to only have Humbuckers and/or Single-Coil PUs - are there any with Splits, or do you think they can have a similar sound?

Sadowsky

PJ

Sadowsky metroexpress modern 24, has the option to go passive with a pull of the treble knob

I's also love to try a Sadowsky. Uncertain about 34" scale.

The PJ seems really nice. How are the feel and neck stability in the MetroExpress line?

Would the Modern need a PU swap to sound close to a P? PU placement seems a bit bridge-inclined.

I'll not assume the 5er that works for me will work for you.

I can say it took me a while to find a 5 string that works best for my need.

I cycled through four basses to get to the one I'm now really pleased with.

Just encouraging you to try some, be patient, keep notes on what works and what doesn't. Your first try might be a good step but not necessarily the end of the journey.

Good luck!

Thanks for the encouragement - what 5er ended up working best for you?

If you intend to mod the bass, most great bridges are adjustable.
Note that, if memory serves, the BTB has an asymmetrical neck. So MTD’s would be on your list, and the spacing should be along the lines of what you are after.

Open to modding, but I think I'd prefer to get a bass with a neck designed for wider bridge spacing. I'll check out the MTD Z5 (with split-coils) - adding active/passive electronics seems doable, though it makes it tough to gauge tone before committing.

Just curious. Have you tried a Music Man StingRay? I know you said you like 18-19 mm spacing and StingRays are 17.5mm

I've tried a Sterling Stingray 5 and it did feel a bit too tight for me.

An additional consideration is Schecter. Their 5-stringers are 35'' as standard. Here are 3 passive Shecter's that I think could cop a P tone:
Model-T 5 Exotic: It's a PJ, but has VVT, rather than blend. Very heavy.
CV-5: HH pickups, but with 3-way selector and Series-Split-Parallel per pickup. Surely versatile, I want to try this.
P-5: It's 'just' a P, but 5-string 35''.

Schecter's string spacing is 16.5-17mm, right? The CV-5 seems to be at least, from the thread I was able to find. Very appealing otherwise.

For a curveball BTB, see if you can try one of the multi-scale BTBs. My sound guy just yesterday told me, "This one. But I can't tell you why". Those Ibanez T1 pickups are no slouches, very hot, might be a little closer to the P sound.

i go with multi scale for 5 string bass choice ~ Ibanez SRMS725.

I'll check out the BTB with T1s, but I'm not sure if I'm ready for multi-scale. I've tried a couple and while I think I could get used to them, I worry it would mess with my intonation/muscle memory for fretless and DB.

35''

So, I highly recommend 35" scale. That extra inch gives some added tightness to the low B, better sound. ( Would love to try a 36".)

B string ? 35.5 scale are ok for me.

I do think I'd prefer a 35" scale. One thing I liked about the BTB1935 was the 35".

I'd recommend a Yamaha BB425X or BB1025X.

Very interesting, I'll have to check those out if I can get my hands on one, a BB1025X if possible.

You will likely have to wait one out now that G&L is closed, but if you are lucky enough you can find a G&L CLF L-2500 Series 750. It checks off all of your requirements, even the string spacing.

I hope I can try one someday. How thumpy can it sound? Its range of tones is impressive, but I wonder if I'll find it sounds too modern.

Well if you liked the BTB.... get that one. They are great basses and don't look the same as "all the other ones".

The BTB sounds like it checks the most boxes. I'd argue that it's a good thing to have a different tone and vibe between instruments, otherwise you'll have two which are so similar one might end up always sitting on the stand because it doesn't offer enough to pick it over the other.

Get this, for the simple reason I want the 1906, have no spare cash, and I can live vicariously through you.

My hat is in the ring for Ibanez BTB, fully biased though.

Thanks for the votes of confidence. I'd like to try some of these other suggestions before deciding, but it's a strong benchmark for sure!

 

[Chris Chong]

Thanks everyone for a lot to consider! My weekend was a lot busier than expected - sorry for the delay in getting back.

I forgot to mention I'm running into a Markbass Little Mark 250 + 2 1x15" Cabs by the way.



I'd love to try a Skyline. All I can seem to find around seem to only have Humbuckers and/or Single-Coil PUs - are there any with Splits, or do you think they can have a similar sound?




I's also love to try a Sadowsky. Uncertain about 34" scale.

The PJ seems really nice. How are the feel and neck stability in the MetroExpress line?

Would the Modern need a PU swap to sound close to a P? PU placement seems a bit bridge-inclined.


Thanks for the encouragement - what 5er ended up working best for you?


Open to modding, but I think I'd prefer to get a bass with a neck designed for wider bridge spacing. I'll check out the MTD Z5 (with split-coils) - adding active/passive electronics seems doable, though it makes it tough to gauge tone before committing.


I've tried a Sterling Stingray 5 and it did feel a bit too tight for me.


Schecter's string spacing is 16.5-17mm, right? The CV-5 seems to be at least, from the thread I was able to find. Very appealing otherwise.



I'll check out the BTB with T1s, but I'm not sure if I'm ready for multi-scale. I've tried a couple and while I think I could get used to them, I worry it would mess with my intonation/muscle memory for fretless and DB.




I do think I'd prefer a 35" scale. One thing I liked about the BTB1935 was the 35".


Very interesting, I'll have to check those out if I can get my hands on one, a BB1025X if possible.


I hope I can try one someday. How thumpy can it sound? Its range of tones is impressive, but I wonder if I'll find it sounds too modern.





Thanks for the votes of confidence. I'd like to try some of these other suggestions before deciding, but it's a strong benchmark for sure!

I think the neck PU sounds fantastic. I have a singlecut with modern PU layout.

 

[joeLowB]

Thanks for the encouragement - what 5er ended up working best for you?


Very interesting, I'll have to check those out if I can get my hands on one, a BB1025X if possible.

Nice response to all the input! Few advice-askers loop back this well to say "thank you " . Well done.

I worked through an Ibanez GSR 5, a P Bass in BEAD, and a Squier Jazz 5 before I found my "keeper"... a Yamaha BB1025x ... built in 2018 and purchased used here on TB. It checks off all the boxes for me.

Interesting this model also came up in responses from others.

Good luck... it's a journey to find the axe that will work for you!

.

 

[H Nighttrain]

So, I highly recommend 35" scale. That extra inch gives some added tightness to the low B, better sound. ( Would love to try a 36".)

Longer scale makes a significant improvement for the B string. I had two 35" scale basses... I generally play 34" basses, and have no problem whatsoever with short-scale basses of various lengths, but after trying for about two years I simply couldn't execute on longer scale.

I found that a bass allowing you to string thru the body made a difference at 34" scale. I ended up with a G&L L2500 that allows you to install strings either way, and somehow the greater break angle over the bridge was rather effective in reducing B-string floppiness.

(I rarely use it - the A string down the middle of the neck messes with my brain, and I have to consciously mute to keep out unwanted ringing... but those are "me" problems, the bass is excellent.)

(I also did not try many string types, iirc I have DR strings on my L2500, but perhaps higher-tension flats might perform better? String choice is likely a big factor, too.)

 

[Sid the Kid]

5’s can be tricky because of the minor differences between models. From .5mm string spacing differences to widely varying nut widths to scale lengths and neck thickness. There is much less of this in the 4 string world where everything just works.

Having said that I suggest going with what felt the best to you, the Ibanez BTB. There are many models available and they are all quite fetching. The lesser models have mediocre pickups, the nicer models have premium pickups and fancier woods but the same mediocre preamp. Since you’re a passive guy I’d suggest going with a cheaper model and installing new pickups with a passive wiring scheme, I’d do Nordstrand big splits for P bass tone. I know the Ibanez preamp treble pot acts as a tone control when in passive mode, but it isn’t as easy to pinpoint the level of attenuation as a standard tone pot and to my ears there is still some odd filtering happening in there.

As a stock instrument my Ibanez Prestige SR5005 with proprietary Bartolini pickups has the most convincing P bass tone I’ve had in a 5er and I’ve had actual American Fender Precision V’s as well as Kiesels and Yamahas.

Good luck! You’ll find the one.

 

[Chris Chong]

Longer scale makes a significant improvement for the B string. I had two 35" scale basses... I generally play 34" basses, and have no problem whatsoever with short-scale basses of various lengths, but after trying for about two years I simply couldn't execute on longer scale.

I found that a bass allowing you to string thru the body made a difference at 34" scale. I ended up with a G&L L2500 that allows you to install strings either way, and somehow the greater break angle over the bridge was rather effective in reducing B-string floppiness.

(I rarely use it - the A string down the middle of the neck messes with my brain, and I have to consciously mute to keep out unwanted ringing... but those are "me" problems, the bass is excellent.)

(I also did not try many string types, iirc I have DR strings on my L2500, but perhaps higher-tension flats might perform better? String choice is likely a big factor, too.)

For that generation of G&Ls w both options to string thru body or over the bridge. Some report that stringing through bridge may rip the bridge off the body as the two screws are inadequate to hold the bridge in place.

 

[krutonlowend]

I would definitely agree with the Lakland suggestions. I love the tones I can get out of it as well.

Both of these have the best B strings out of all of the other 5’s and 6’s I own.

 

[Kawai2g4b]

For that generation of G&Ls w both options to string thru body or over the bridge. Some report that stringing through bridge may rip the bridge off the body as the two screws are inadequate to hold the bridge in place.

I have always run mine through the body myself.

As for the OP’s concern about the L2K sounding too modern, strings absolutely make a difference. Some of the warmer LaBella flat sets help allow for thump for these basses. Also, getting one wired for OMG mode makes it that more more suitable for it.

 

[Pep]

Perhaps the Sire P6 would work for you. It’s a PJ configuration, active/passive, beautiful finish, light in weight, and very affordable with a new one only $799.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MMP65SBK--sire-marcus-miller-p6-5-string-bass-guitar-black

 

[cornwallis89]

Thank you all for the continued suggestions!

Nice response to all the input! Few advice-askers loop back this well to say "thank you " . Well done.

I worked through an Ibanez GSR 5, a P Bass in BEAD, and a Squier Jazz 5 before I found my "keeper"... a Yamaha BB1025x ... built in 2018 and purchased used here on TB. It checks off all the boxes for me.

Interesting this model also came up in responses from others.

Good luck... it's a journey to find the axe that will work for you!

Thanks! I do appreciate everyone taking the time to offer suggestions - it really helps to feel oriented to make a decision.

I do look forward to hopefully trying a Yamaha BB1025x someday.

Having said that I suggest going with what felt the best to you, the Ibanez BTB. There are many models available and they are all quite fetching. The lesser models have mediocre pickups, the nicer models have premium pickups and fancier woods but the same mediocre preamp. Since you’re a passive guy I’d suggest going with a cheaper model and installing new pickups with a passive wiring scheme, I’d do Nordstrand big splits for P bass tone. I know the Ibanez preamp treble pot acts as a tone control when in passive mode, but it isn’t as easy to pinpoint the level of attenuation as a standard tone pot and to my ears there is still some odd filtering happening in there.

As a stock instrument my Ibanez Prestige SR5005 with proprietary Bartolini pickups has the most convincing P bass tone I’ve had in a 5er and I’ve had actual American Fender Precision V’s as well as Kiesels and Yamahas.

Good luck! You’ll find the one.

Good to know, thanks - would you recommend Big Splits over something like Bartolini P (Split) Soapbars?

And you're suggesting to, instead of getting a higher-end Ibanez with active/passive switch and tone pot, consider a cheaper Ibanez active and converting it to passive?

I would definitely agree with the Lakland suggestions. I love the tones I can get out of it as well.

Both of these have the best B strings out of all of the other 5’s and 6’s I own.

Laklands Skylines are fully-active electronics, right? Is there a passive mode?

 

[krutonlowend]

Thank you all for the continued suggestions!


Thanks! I do appreciate everyone taking the time to offer suggestions - it really helps to feel oriented to make a decision.

I do look forward to hopefully trying a Yamaha BB1025x someday.


Good to know, thanks - would you recommend Big Splits over something like Bartolini P (Split) Soapbars?

And you're suggesting to, instead of getting a higher-end Ibanez with active/passive switch and tone pot, consider a cheaper Ibanez active and converting it to passive?


Laklands Skylines are fully-active electronics, right? Is there a passive mode?

Yes, the skylines have a passive mode as well.