Not sure if this has ever been said on TB: What’s the best cardigan sweater for metal?
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Age-related P-bass problem
- Thread starter Deleted member 165050
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Deleted member 165050
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Well I would have said mine from post #1, but no skulls...
yeah get gaffer tape, it's used by filmmakers -- both indie and on major sets... lots of uses for the stuff, it doesn't leave a residue, yet is thick and will hold up. it's relatively cheap for a big roll, and we use it for everything from getting cords down on the ground (well, I guess roadies and tech crews do that too), to covering up corners of expensive cameras and gimbals so that they don't get marred. the big roll is convenient so you can take it off as needed and replace it often when you're sleeved up.
ps kurt cobain prolly would've loved that cardigan.
pps - i do wonder if the tape or other external fixes would affect your sound and/or mute anything or kill the resonance however.
ps kurt cobain prolly would've loved that cardigan.
pps - i do wonder if the tape or other external fixes would affect your sound and/or mute anything or kill the resonance however.
No worries, a team of TB specialists has been formed for the sole purpose of finding a solution to your problem.
I should hope; it’s more than twice the money.
Let’s not let a funny thread about snagged sweaters devolve into arguing over which aftermarket bridge is best and does it even matter or not I say it does I SAY IT DON’T YOU’RE DUMB NO YOU ARE!!!
You don't need to replace the bridge at all.
A shim will lower the action enough that you can then raise the saddles to the point that the grub screws aren't poking above the top of the saddle. There will also be the added bonus that you'll get a better break angle at the bridge with more downward pressure on the saddles. Both my main basses required a shim as the screws were poking out.
A shim will lower the action enough that you can then raise the saddles to the point that the grub screws aren't poking above the top of the saddle. There will also be the added bonus that you'll get a better break angle at the bridge with more downward pressure on the saddles. Both my main basses required a shim as the screws were poking out.
Sharp saddle screws are just a problem Fender will never, ever address. Every other manufacturer's bridge is smooth as butter but Fender will just always have that issue.
Would Loctite Blue 242 work? From their webpage: "Threadlocker Blue 242 is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools."
That's a topic for a whole 'nother TB thread...prolly 20 pages or so.
true that. another thing you may consider is heading over to home depot or the likes and getting some little silicone or soft plastic screw covers of sorts.
That's a topic for a whole 'nother TB thread...prolly 20 pages or so.
Hehe you’re totally right lol
If you ask this question on TB, you'll get a lot of modding suggestions for your bass. But, have you tried posting your question on a fashion forum ? You may get different answers... 
I can't remember the number but I'd use the purple loctite as it's similar to the blue 242 but made for smaller fasteners like the bridge set screws. I use 242 on my '76 Harley lol.
Dick Smothers was the only bassist to successfully rock a cardigan on stage. He made it look hip, and edgy, but it is ultimately blamed for his failing the audition with Necropsy.
Pic shows him rocking out in a nifty cableknit cardigan that was later stolen by Ozzy Osbourne to keep some turkey sandwiches warm.
Pic shows him rocking out in a nifty cableknit cardigan that was later stolen by Ozzy Osbourne to keep some turkey sandwiches warm.
Regarding the use of Removable Caulk; After further review…. STRIKE THAT.
I was in the shop last night, so I thought I’d give it a try on a stock J-Bass Bridge.
Application was a little more finicky than what I would care for, as I kept it in-between strings.
It set up fine overnight, but I don’t see it holding up to a set of rigorous playing.
There’s not enough contact area for good adhesion. (same for plastic screw covers)
Running a continuous, thicker bead from end to end, across the strings, would likely do the trick, but may also affect string vibration and resonance undesirably, (as would foam or tape), and as Stumbo mentioned, we don’t want to go there!
Even though it removes without residue, it’s not something I’d recommend to someone else.
I was in the shop last night, so I thought I’d give it a try on a stock J-Bass Bridge.
Application was a little more finicky than what I would care for, as I kept it in-between strings.
It set up fine overnight, but I don’t see it holding up to a set of rigorous playing.
There’s not enough contact area for good adhesion. (same for plastic screw covers)
Running a continuous, thicker bead from end to end, across the strings, would likely do the trick, but may also affect string vibration and resonance undesirably, (as would foam or tape), and as Stumbo mentioned, we don’t want to go there!
Even though it removes without residue, it’s not something I’d recommend to someone else.
I had to laugh! Just trying to help, as we can't afford to have a Wardrobe Malfunction within the Bass Community!
D
