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Alembic Balance K "inspired" (semi-replica) build

#281
Gilmourisgod said:
. Front shots of tailpiece?
Click to expand...
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Whoops....I just noticed in this pic , it is sitting on there kinda crooked...:roflmao:
Oh well...you get the idea....;)
 
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#283
Thanks man.... But naw...I am definitely NOT an "ace" metalworker:rollno:

Speaking of metal work....
I was planning on making an Alembic style brass bridge for this build...but as you can see....that ain't happening.

I really don't like the way that the Alembic bridge has one small bolt on each side that holds the entire bridge suspended no matter what... and that the saddles are fixed & action is adjusted only by those two bolts.
I am planning on designing a bridge that looks similar ...but addresses the issues I don't like.
....next time I build one of these.;)
Because there will be another & it will be a 4-string.:)
 
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#286
The other day I went ahead and wrapped the e-cavity cover with a very thin strip of walnut to tighten up the reveal.
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Today, I sanded...

And sanded....

And sanded, till I had a lovely blister on my thumb:sour:.
Wrapped it up, & sanded....some more:***:

Then I laid down a coat of danish oil.
Not because I'm really that much into a natural oil finish....
But...because in a couple weeks when this oil is completely dry.... there will still be a nice amberglow to everything.
Then, a few coats of conversion varnish will let light do it's thing...making for a more luxurious finish.:thumbsup:;)
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#290
No, not satin...
(BTW, I this is kinda an experiment)...
I'm planning to let this totally dry...cure, THEN I was going to spray Conversion Varnish & sand / buff to a high gloss.
On my last build, I used CV and found the resulting color to be somewhat sterile ...or basically not 'warm' enough. It was too clear, no amber...("water clear" they call it)
But I really like everything else about it...like its high build and ultra quick drying & buffing characteristics.
 
#291
Cool! I had no idea you could put an overcoat over Danish oil. So the oil just warms it up for the protective layer. The furniture and one guitar body I've done with Watco took a long time to cure, or at least to stop smelling like Watco, which I assume means its still offgassing. I think my bass still reeked after two weeks. How long do you have to let it sit?
 
#294
Bit of advice for the finishing experiment. Next time rather than using Danish Oil, use Shellac instead. It'll pop the grain just as well as oil and be dry the same day. It's also guaranteed not to have any adhesion problems with any top coat, whereas Danish Oil may with some. I do my natural (and coloured) finishes with Shellac when I'm not using Nitro. It's not necessary with Nitro as that pops all by itself.
 
#295
Manton Customs said:
Bit of advice for the finishing experiment. Next time rather than using Danish Oil, use Shellac instead. It'll pop the grain just as well as oil and be dry the same day. It's also guaranteed not to have any adhesion problems with any top coat, whereas Danish Oil may with some. I do my natural (and coloured) finishes with Shellac when I'm not using Nitro. It's not necessary with Nitro as that pops all by itself.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that....see, I knew I read that there was something that did what I was trying to accomplish better than a "drying" type of oil.
But my memory sucks these days.
In my years as a professional woodworker, I have typically been able to leave any finishing issues, to the finishing department. A luxury I don't have in my one man endeavors as a luthier.
Finishing is a whole other skillset, that takes time to master. (And I have never until now, had the desire to do so.)
I do know, that I don't like nitro.... I don't have the patience. Using the high build CV and mixing in the catalyst oneself makes so much more sense to me.
So, yes...next time...shellac.
Cheers! :)
 
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#297
RBrownBass said:
This thing is just magnificent.

Have you considered having the tailpiece powdercoated black, or switching the rest of the hardware to gold? I know it's a personal taste thing, but IMO the bass would look more "stock" that way.
Click to expand...
Seriously?:eek:
I went through some degree of pain to carve that tailpiece, then sanded & polished it....
....that was kinda on purpose ;)
So, ...no I hadn't considered powder coating it.
And, IMO.... "stock" is a four letter word.

What I DID do, however....is strip the paint... (yes- paint :jawdrop:) off of the saddles of my Hipshot D & polished them up!
Sorta brings the room together ;)
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#300
So, I put it together so I could work on the setup, & play it whilst I wait for the oil to dry.
I got some bubinga knobs to tie into the bubinga accent stripes....but they might be a bit too red for the walnut top... the high gloss knobs will match better once I clear & buff it.

It plays really pretty good! & sounds good!
(I gotta get some new strings though)
The fingerboard end fallaway I did seems to have worked very well. There is hardly any fret buzz to speak of.
I'm just sooo not used to, (or any good at) playing a 5 string :banghead:

Anyway.... It's basically done.... until I get around to laying down some clear.
Which may take a while. ....I got a commissioned build I gotta start soon.:D
(Or, I might just leave it an oil finish, & sell it);):cool:
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I did another ebony jack cup too btw.:) I should probably just make up a batch of these little suckers;)

AND.....
I totally forgot. ...the fret marker fiber optics work, but I'm waiting for a rotary switch to come in the mail.
We'll take a look at them when I revisit this thread in a couple weeks.

So...thanks a bunch!! Everyone who cheered on this build, and for all your very kind words!
I love this forum :thumbsup:
 
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