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Amp+head vs Combo?

#21
MX5J6 said:
Ok when I get the cab I will check the Ohms and slect a head from there. As for being stuck with one cab that should be enough for right now.

Or I can get a Neo 410 for the same price as the MBE but the grill I am guessing has been replaced but I don't think that changes anything?

What about maybe getting 2 2x10's? I can get some pretty good 2x10's at some good prices, just have to do some searching to find a matching pair.
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210's will be lighter and easier to carry, especially up stairs! They will probably sound better coz A: the top one will be closer to your head, and B: It'll have less inconsistent interference between the speakers - as they'll be in a vertical line, not side by side like a 410.
Definitely get 8ohm 210's (AFAIK nearly all of them are 8ohms).
Also the GK Neo series tend to be heavier and pricier - but are said to have less issues and a pad for the tweeter. I haven't had the pleasure of trying either.

EDIT: It might be a little tricky to buy a cab and a head separately - you'll need to check used gear fairly carefully, I'd ask in advance can you try it where they store it, and if they have an amp (or cab depending on what you're trying) you could play through for a little bit (with their supervision of course).
 
#24
Sav'nBass said:
I would suggest the modular rig.. and try to get 8 ohm cabs that way you can match them and split them according to venue... One thing I have learned the hard way about this gear stuff, well more than one actually .. is:


Take your time
Do your research
Consider used gear
Get a bit more than your immediate needs. Sometimes spending a bit more than you planned today means you won't have to do it later.

I can't help you with the problem on your ass.. ;) :hiding:
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+1
 
#28
MX5J6 said:
In other words the 350w Hartke should have no problem with two 400w cabs?
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It depends. The HA3500 manual says 16, 8 or 4 ohm loads are OK - if you have 2 410 cabs, both of which are 8 ohms, and you connect them in a conventional way (parallel - see http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_amps/how_to_hook_up_heads_and_cabinets.html for a brief example) by hooking each to one of the speaker outs on the back of the head (or hooking one up, then daisy chaining that cab to the next one if the cab allows that) - you should have a load of 8/2 = 4 ohms (see link for formula).

If you hook up one 8ohm cab and 4 ohm cab like before you'll get 2.6 ohms, which will ruin the head! :bawl:

There is a way you could run the 8 & 4 ohm cabs, but they'd be in series, so they'd sum to 12 ohms - which will draw less power than the single 8 or 4 ohm head if I'm figuring this out right. AFAIK you'll need to do some internal wiring changes in most cabs to do that.

tl:dnr? Two 8ohm cabs = OK, 8 + 4 ohm cabs = new head :(
 
#29
PlungerModerno said:
It depends. The HA3500 manual says 16, 8 or 4 ohm loads are OK - if you have 2 410 cabs, both of which are 8 ohms, and you connect them in a conventional way (parallel - see http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_amps/how_to_hook_up_heads_and_cabinets.html for a brief example) by hooking each to one of the speaker outs on the back of the head (or hooking one up, then daisy chaining that cab to the next one if the cab allows that) - you should have a load of 8/2 = 4 ohms (see link for formula).

If you hook up one 8ohm cab and 4 ohm cab like before you'll get 2.6 ohms, which will ruin the head! :bawl:

There is a way you could run the 8 & 4 ohm cabs, but they'd be in series, so they'd sum to 12 ohms - which will draw less power than the single 8 or 4 ohm head if I'm figuring this out right. AFAIK you'll need to do some internal wiring changes in most cabs to do that.

tl:dnr? Two 8ohm cabs = OK, 8 + 4 ohm cabs = new head :(
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yes, it'd be 12 ohms for an 8 and 16 in parallel. But then power distribution between cabs of different impedances means the power distribution is going to be mismatched. Not an optimal situation sonically nor for the mechanical/thermal health of your drivers.

Four 10s (stacked vertically as PM describes and matched) and that Hartke pumping out 350 watts, complete with graphic eq and tube and ss preamp would make for a very nice and flexible gig-worthy rig at a nice price. Can get a lot of different and useful tones out of that amp.
 
#31
I have been looking a little more deeply into other heads and was looking at the Carvin BX500, how does that compare to the Hartke HA3500 I was looking at before? is it worth the extra $80-$110?
 
#32
MX5J6 said:
4x10's are very heavy, are there any on the lighter side? I also saw a thread on MROD's. i know what it stands for but I don't really know what is considered an MROD or what kind of gigs they are used for?
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You want cheap or you want light? Tons of cheap used cabs out there that aren't the lightest 410's but would likely work in a metal context. And you sound young, so you can handle it ;)
 
#33
MX5J6 said:
I have been looking a little more deeply into other heads and was looking at the Carvin BX500, how does that compare to the Hartke HA3500 I was looking at before? is it worth the extra $80-$110?
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Both heads are pretty good. As for reliability, the Hartke wins. However, my Carvin BX1200 heads have given me very few problems. The BX500 has more available wattage compared to this hartke head. More wattage will get you more headroom for your notes since it is not a huge difference between the heads. The tone controls on Carvin are going to be in your favor, but both are pretty good choices.
 
#37
MX5J6 said:
Does the cab need to be rated at least at the wattage of the head to avoid blowing out the cab?

Meaning my 400w cabs can't handle something like a 1000w head?
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1000 watts is the MAX what the amp can dish out. Just because the head is on does not mean it is dishing out MASSIVE wattage. Listen to the speaker for sign of distress - farting sounds, speaker cones flapping, distorted tones. Typically, reducing the low end below 150hz is very helpful at higher volumes.

You will be fine. :bassist:
 
#38
Just wanted to make sure, thanks for answering. The next question is do I really need 1000W? Will it help with me having two cabs? Or will it just be useless? It looks nice but looks aren't worth me wasting money if it doesn't perform any better or isn't any safer.
 
#39
Your gear runs as safely as you operate it. Use common sense and your ears and don't try to make it do something it shouldn't, and you will be fine. Push it to where you think it might explode, and it will. For me, 1000w is totally useless, but there are some high wattage amps that really sound good, so if the tone of a particular 1000w amp sounds better to you than one with less wattage, then get the 1000w amp and just don't turn it up all the way if your cabs can't handle it.
 
#40
MX5J6 said:
Just wanted to make sure, thanks for answering. The next question is do I really need 1000W? Will it help with me having two cabs? Or will it just be useless? It looks nice but looks aren't worth me wasting money if it doesn't perform any better or isn't any safer.
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The 1000 watts is not truly necessary, however, it's nice to have when you eventually upgrade your cabs.
 

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