mattvon said:
One BT140 cabinet. In a disc. long ago I was told by the factory rep that he B15S cab is 1/2 of the old BT140 cab which was of similar design to the Sunn 200S.
Best of Luck,
Wesley R.
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Ampeg B-15 thread... first ever?
- Thread starter Ben Clarke
- Start date
One BT140 cabinet. In a disc. long ago I was told by the factory rep that he B15S cab is 1/2 of the old BT140 cab which was of similar design to the Sunn 200S.
Best of Luck,
Wesley R.
One of the thing that can be attributed to the sound of those 60's B15s and other 70's SVTs is the output transformer.ehiunno said:
I have tried a B15 with a new output tranformer vs. the original vintage one and it made all the difference. No wonder why a NOS OT on fliptops.net goes for more than $250!
Also, the tube rectifier has a lag in its response and that creates a natural compression of the sound also responsible for the B15's sound.
I have tried with various AR4s and could hear a difference.
I wish I owned a P bass to try it trough but frankly a Jazz played over the bridge pu is pure joy to me.
I've got a mid 60s B-15N that is in great shape. It didn't come with the original speaker, it has an Altec Lansing. I bought it for $100 in 1986. At that time, in Omaha, NE at least, everyone was into those pointy Jackson and Charvel guitars so what we now call vintage guitars and amps were going for cheap. I should have bought some of those old Gibsons and Fenders back then too! Anyway, I digress.
I use my B-15N for an alt country trio I'm in. I don't want to bang the cab up so if I gig with it I'll plug the head into my Ashdown mini-15. The head sounds good with the Ashdown IMO and has a little more volume with that cab. I'm really amazed at how much volume the 25 watt head puts out.
I use my B-15N for an alt country trio I'm in. I don't want to bang the cab up so if I gig with it I'll plug the head into my Ashdown mini-15. The head sounds good with the Ashdown IMO and has a little more volume with that cab. I'm really amazed at how much volume the 25 watt head puts out.
yeah, mine has all the fibreglass wedged into the port area. I'll probably pull it out and put it back on the back panel.
do you know if there's supposed to be wadding in the port? doesn't seem to make sense to put it there.
I owned a B15N and a B18 back in the 70s. Yes, they were nice amps but couldn't handle any gig with any volume. I also used a B15 for some club gigs during the early 60s. It couldn't compete for rock even with the much quieter stage levels then when 30 watts was a lot for a guitar player. It was also way too heavy and bulky to cart around, even with the wheels on the dolly base. Sounded great on jazz and danceband gigs though with a P bass. Just way too much to cart around if you were a busy working musician.
I used my B15 in the 70s for recording. Through the internal speaker it was too muddy for me. I then used the head to power a homemade sealed 1-12 cabinet. I think it was a Mike Mathews 12 I got really cheap mail order. That recorded great with just one microphone up close and no direct. About as nice as a Polytone mini brute I also recorded with that was fabulous for recording. I changed out the tubes and improved the sound somewhat. Good tubes were easy to find then.
The B18 was just too big and clumsy for me and way too muddy for any serious use so I quickly sold it. The new owner discovered the same thing and sold it again. Back then they were very cheap. Both amps were unmodded and in fairly good condition. I imagine they'd be worth a lot now.
Now I have a Walkabout Scout combo. It's far more practical for me and I can get awfully close to a B15 sound with it at any volume I'm likely to need.
I saw a B15 in a used instrument store recently. It was ratty looking and beat up beyond recognition. I didn't bother trying it out. The guy wanted $1000 for it. I told him he must be on drugs.
Still, there are people who love to collect these things and get a lot of comfort from owning one.
I used my B15 in the 70s for recording. Through the internal speaker it was too muddy for me. I then used the head to power a homemade sealed 1-12 cabinet. I think it was a Mike Mathews 12 I got really cheap mail order. That recorded great with just one microphone up close and no direct. About as nice as a Polytone mini brute I also recorded with that was fabulous for recording. I changed out the tubes and improved the sound somewhat. Good tubes were easy to find then.
The B18 was just too big and clumsy for me and way too muddy for any serious use so I quickly sold it. The new owner discovered the same thing and sold it again. Back then they were very cheap. Both amps were unmodded and in fairly good condition. I imagine they'd be worth a lot now.
Now I have a Walkabout Scout combo. It's far more practical for me and I can get awfully close to a B15 sound with it at any volume I'm likely to need.
I saw a B15 in a used instrument store recently. It was ratty looking and beat up beyond recognition. I didn't bother trying it out. The guy wanted $1000 for it. I told him he must be on drugs.
Still, there are people who love to collect these things and get a lot of comfort from owning one.
yeah, they are getting up there in price. definitely not for gigging, being that they are heavy (the 70's ones are 90lbs.) and not loud enough without a PA backing you up.
I have only limited experience with the B-18 but I agree that the sound was not as clear as the 15". I guess this amp is really only for practicing, recording or low volume gigs.
but like in the world of saxophones, there is a "sound" associated with vintage instruments. people pay for that sound. whether or not it is real or not is an eternal debate. one undebateable fact is that you generally get your money back when you sell them.
I have only limited experience with the B-18 but I agree that the sound was not as clear as the 15". I guess this amp is really only for practicing, recording or low volume gigs.
but like in the world of saxophones, there is a "sound" associated with vintage instruments. people pay for that sound. whether or not it is real or not is an eternal debate. one undebateable fact is that you generally get your money back when you sell them.
I've got an early 60's B15. I'm not sure what kind of letter might come after it, but I love the little bugger.
I do have a problem with 60 cycle hum, though. Not sure how to fix it besides putting something between it & the wall.
Any suggestions?
I do have a problem with 60 cycle hum, though. Not sure how to fix it besides putting something between it & the wall.
Any suggestions?
I've got a '65 B15N. I use is (sometimes) for the rock band--mike it with an AKG D112. I run my Casady (with Chromes) through it and it sounds absolutely wonderful--full, rich, warm and buttery. 
Can't believe I haven't seen this thread before as I often wax poetic about my '64 N. Not loud enough for gigs but exactly the tone I love for fingerstyle. Works great with P or J. Want something that can do the same thing but louder. I'll have to try the Walkabout. Been looking for cabs that can do it and people recommend whizzies. Anyway, I love that amp and will never sell it, even though it's not practical for much other than recording (which I rarely do) and practice in the basement.
There is a hum reduction screw on the back of the amp's head. Play with it (turn it left or right) until the noise is at its lowest.
Also, know that the closer you are with your bass to this amp, the more the pickups will buzz from the magnetic interference of the transformers. Neons/fridge on the same electrical circuit will also bring buzz.
Cool thread. I just took up bass (guitar player) and always wanted a B15- I think it would be too clunky and difficulty to move up and down steps so I was eyeing the Walkabout. Very cool to hear that a Walkabout may get close in sound to the B 15- any suggestions in getting there? I have a P Bass-62 RI
TIA
TIA
This thread is going to have me cryin' meself ta sleep (with joy) in ma big pilla tonight!
I just pored over this entire thread in an effort to know, understand, and love my, as yet, undelivered baby. I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my new (to me) (but old, actually) B15N via "The Stork" (a.k.a. FedEx) in a few days.
I have been craving/desiring/coveting/slavering over these thangs for a long, LONG time, and a 'net deal finally appeared that I could not pass up. I pray that it is really "as good as it sounds" deal-wise, but sound being the operative word here...
The one I'm buying is (I think) a late 60s/early 70s model. Bigger Thiele cab design. Black tolex. Blue faceplate graphics. Not sure of the tube make-up... Supposedly recently serviced, and I have the option of sending it back if it's not up to snuff, so I'm pretty comfortable with the deal.
What do you guys think? I am fairly certain the amp will work for my needs. I play in a weird pop/punk/wannabe-jazz-fusion-ish/overall silliness band that acutally plays pretty quietly, and has a solid R&B sensibility, and in which the low frequencies are dominated only by...
ME!
(Hooray!)
(Seriously, with a theremin and ukelele player as co-instrumentalists in this band there's not much to there to get in my way sonically...)
I know I'll have no trouble being heard. (And I've always wondered what the big deal is with amps anyway, given the number of times I've played live just running direct, or with a small, mic-ed amp, to the P.A. with a send it back to the monitors. I mean, I love a God-Of-Thunder sound on stage now and then as much as the next bass dude or dudette, but come on...
Anyway...
I actually got more interested in the vintage B15 series after reading a thread from NickyBass comparing a B15 (not sure which specific model offhand...) to a modeled version. The tone of the "real deal" was so sweet that when I saw my new baby online I said, "That's the one! Right there! Outta my freakin' way, man!"
So I've got REALLY high hopes for this amp, as you can tell...
My big questions are about the basics of the amp design and application:
1) Should I consider the solid state rectifier vs. the tube, if the mod hasn't already been done? Do I need to have any adjustments done by my amp guy to accomodate such a mod? Can I just stick a solid state rectifier in there and swap it out for the tube unit if I want that "lag" that everyone talks about?
2) What power tubes can I interchange for different sounds? I've read that 6L6s are standard. Some folks, I've read, have used 5691s, 350Bs, or 7027As. (Can you use 7027As in an "N" model? I know those only came originally in the "S" model.)
3) Can I easily pop in some 5881s, or any other 6L6 substitutes? If so, what sonic differences might I expect from tube type to tube type, or brand to brand?
Okay, I think that's about it for this moment. I await with bated breath the arrival of this amp, as well as comments from my fellow TBers!
Shake it easy!
Matt
I just pored over this entire thread in an effort to know, understand, and love my, as yet, undelivered baby. I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my new (to me) (but old, actually) B15N via "The Stork" (a.k.a. FedEx) in a few days.
I have been craving/desiring/coveting/slavering over these thangs for a long, LONG time, and a 'net deal finally appeared that I could not pass up. I pray that it is really "as good as it sounds" deal-wise, but sound being the operative word here...
The one I'm buying is (I think) a late 60s/early 70s model. Bigger Thiele cab design. Black tolex. Blue faceplate graphics. Not sure of the tube make-up... Supposedly recently serviced, and I have the option of sending it back if it's not up to snuff, so I'm pretty comfortable with the deal.
What do you guys think? I am fairly certain the amp will work for my needs. I play in a weird pop/punk/wannabe-jazz-fusion-ish/overall silliness band that acutally plays pretty quietly, and has a solid R&B sensibility, and in which the low frequencies are dominated only by...
ME!
(Hooray!)
(Seriously, with a theremin and ukelele player as co-instrumentalists in this band there's not much to there to get in my way sonically...)
I know I'll have no trouble being heard. (And I've always wondered what the big deal is with amps anyway, given the number of times I've played live just running direct, or with a small, mic-ed amp, to the P.A. with a send it back to the monitors. I mean, I love a God-Of-Thunder sound on stage now and then as much as the next bass dude or dudette, but come on...
Anyway...
I actually got more interested in the vintage B15 series after reading a thread from NickyBass comparing a B15 (not sure which specific model offhand...) to a modeled version. The tone of the "real deal" was so sweet that when I saw my new baby online I said, "That's the one! Right there! Outta my freakin' way, man!"
So I've got REALLY high hopes for this amp, as you can tell...
My big questions are about the basics of the amp design and application:
1) Should I consider the solid state rectifier vs. the tube, if the mod hasn't already been done? Do I need to have any adjustments done by my amp guy to accomodate such a mod? Can I just stick a solid state rectifier in there and swap it out for the tube unit if I want that "lag" that everyone talks about?
2) What power tubes can I interchange for different sounds? I've read that 6L6s are standard. Some folks, I've read, have used 5691s, 350Bs, or 7027As. (Can you use 7027As in an "N" model? I know those only came originally in the "S" model.)
3) Can I easily pop in some 5881s, or any other 6L6 substitutes? If so, what sonic differences might I expect from tube type to tube type, or brand to brand?
Okay, I think that's about it for this moment. I await with bated breath the arrival of this amp, as well as comments from my fellow TBers!
Shake it easy!
Matt
I own a B15S which I got almost brand new 30 years ago.
I had to change the speaker 15 years ago for an EV which was recommended by Valley Arts in LA.
I took the head off the Porta-Flex because there was just too much rumble for the tubes. I played that amp so much in my life.
Plus,everyday at the school where I teach I play an original B15N and an B18. I just love the sound of tubes for bass.
I have a big question for the experts here because I love to record with that amp but it is a little tricky direct:
I own an Avalon U5 that I got especcially for the speaker input.
I bought a Bergantino 1x12 to use with my Ampeg because of the in-out speaker plugs so that I can feed the Avalon with the sound of the Ampeg head. Can I use the speaker out from the back or use the ext. amp?
I did blow my head once in studio and I don't want that to happen again.
Thanks,
Sly
I had to change the speaker 15 years ago for an EV which was recommended by Valley Arts in LA.
I took the head off the Porta-Flex because there was just too much rumble for the tubes. I played that amp so much in my life.
Plus,everyday at the school where I teach I play an original B15N and an B18. I just love the sound of tubes for bass.
I have a big question for the experts here because I love to record with that amp but it is a little tricky direct:
I own an Avalon U5 that I got especcially for the speaker input.
I bought a Bergantino 1x12 to use with my Ampeg because of the in-out speaker plugs so that I can feed the Avalon with the sound of the Ampeg head. Can I use the speaker out from the back or use the ext. amp?
I did blow my head once in studio and I don't want that to happen again.
Thanks,
Sly
Watching football, posting on talkbass...
I believe the earlier pre-thiele cab ones are much lighter in weight. That being said, you might not want to gig with one in mint condition, since you'll put a lot of wear and tear on it. but if you find an ugly one that is in good working condition, then go for it!
I own a thiele cab b-15n and I do like the sound. One thing I've read is that people love the sound because of the old Motown recordings and James Jamerson. However, I've read Jamerson recorded direct. The B-15n was only used in live performance.
So, the supposedly "classic" sounds of the B-15n aren't so classic after all. Go figure.
My feeling is that the speakers are probably the most important part of the set up. For whatever reason, in the audio world, speakers are the fetish item, whereas in the music world it's the amp. I think as long as you have a 15" driver, you can probably approximate the sounds of the B15n.
I own a B25B and love the tone I get from it! It has 7027A's in her right now. What other power tubes can be switched with these? This head has so much low end it's crazy!
I don't know if I can answer all your questions, but..
I think it was Psycho Bass Guy who recommended getting the copper cap rectifier. I read somewhere that one of the reasons why was to lighten the load on the Power Transformer so it doesn't have to supply voltage to the rectifier tube heater.
I don't know how much louder the amp would be with swapping a solid state rectifier. I've heard 5 watts. Doesn't seem worth it to me.
This is a little beyond my knowledge. I've read somewhere that the first number in a tube name is it's voltage. I would think you would need to stay in the same range.
for this amp 6L6-GCs are standard.
Power tubes probably should be biased, to extend the life of the tubes and to sound best. Swapping power tubes is probably too much of a pain. I suggest buying at least matched quad of 6L6-GC tubes, that way you will have 2 back up tubes that you can drop in if one fails.
read this:
http://www.diyguitarist.com/GuitarAmps/PT-Biasing.htm
Some things to be aware of:
The output transformer is probably the single most valuable part on your amp. This is probably most responsible for the sound of the amp than anything other than the speaker.
If you have original tubes, then the matched pair of 6L6-GCs are probably worth at least $100. I have a mullard rectifier 5ar4. That too is expensive.
I think it was Psycho Bass Guy who recommended getting the copper cap rectifier. I read somewhere that one of the reasons why was to lighten the load on the Power Transformer so it doesn't have to supply voltage to the rectifier tube heater.
I don't know how much louder the amp would be with swapping a solid state rectifier. I've heard 5 watts. Doesn't seem worth it to me.
This is a little beyond my knowledge. I've read somewhere that the first number in a tube name is it's voltage. I would think you would need to stay in the same range.
for this amp 6L6-GCs are standard.
Power tubes probably should be biased, to extend the life of the tubes and to sound best. Swapping power tubes is probably too much of a pain. I suggest buying at least matched quad of 6L6-GC tubes, that way you will have 2 back up tubes that you can drop in if one fails.
read this:
http://www.diyguitarist.com/GuitarAmps/PT-Biasing.htm
Some things to be aware of:
The output transformer is probably the single most valuable part on your amp. This is probably most responsible for the sound of the amp than anything other than the speaker.
If you have original tubes, then the matched pair of 6L6-GCs are probably worth at least $100. I have a mullard rectifier 5ar4. That too is expensive.
