• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Ampeg PF 20t not working, halp

Belated update, but the previous "fix" was short lived unfortunately. Reseating the tubes caused the amp to work again for a week or so, but then went back to previous state (powers up, red led comes on, but won't exit standby and no sound passes). I got the deoxit d5 and microbrushes and scrubbed the pins and sockets, no change. I'll probably buy a couple of replacement 6v6 power tubes just to see if changing those fixes it (my only other tube amp is a 90s Fender Twin with 6L6B power tubes and I'm guessing it'd be bad to swap those in for the Ampeg's 6v6s to check functionality); I have a couple of other random 12ax7s to check preamp tubes with, I'm assuming it's fine to use non-matched pair as long as they're 12ax7s.

If that doesn't fix the problem, I'm ready to send it to a tech. The Ampeg site lists several but I'm having trouble contacting the ones within a 2-4 hour drive of me, seems they're out due to covid. Would anyone reading this be willing to work on it for a reasonable rate or recommend someone?
Well, we could continue to guess I suppose. Here's my guess; A bad solder joint at one of the tube sockets. Possibly, when you re-seated the tubes the 1st time, you caused the "bad" connection to intermittently make contact. But it could be any number of things. It could be a "spotty" solder joint anywhere. It could be a bad connection of a cable.
I have been lucky a few time with PCB's where I have visually found broken solder connections and fixed them myself. But once you visually check all that you can see, If you don't find something obvious, It's time for a Tech.
It is very sad that Tube amp repair is such a dying art. That's why we sometimes try the DIY approach.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Southtwin
For the sake of anyone who might come across this thread in the future with similar problems, thought I would update to say I finally sent it off and got it fixed by Lynn Rochester (Ampworks) near Greenville SC for $120. Working like a charm now, and I'll just post our email exchanges below for info about what he found and did:

"I think the problem started with the two 6.3 volt supply lines from the transformer to the filaments of the tubes (filaments are what lights up). In my 41 years in business, I never gave 6.3 volts to light the tubes and pilot amp much thought. But a few years ago, everyone started putting all of the transformer wires into multi-pin connectors and trouble started. Yours is wired like that. The 6.3volt wires would cause things to burn if they were not simply soldered directly to the tube sockets. The first warning: Fender started putting a 10-amp fuse in line with the wires on their 65 Twin Reverbs.. The fuse holder would melt off the circuit board every time. In Bugeras, Egnators, and many other brands, the connector would melt every time. The fix has always been to simply bypass the connector somehow, at least as far as those two wires go.. I often shutter to think that for many years, I was building small low voltage relay circuits for channel switching. I was often holding the board I'd made in my hand, plugged in, and turned on. It might have been only 6.3 volts but there was 10 amps pulled through it.. The amplifier fuse isn't even more than 3 amps. I went back and checked your connector which is not visibly burned. Sure enough, all the damage was directly connected to those two wires. The pins inside the connector were lightly scorched. i could simply clean them. But it won't last. The correct fix is to solder the wires to someplace solid, straight to the tube sockets.. That should prevent this problem from recurring again. I'm trying to figure out the best place in the amp to solder the two wires."

"There is one fuse inside connected to the filament circuit. It is a small 5-amp fuse. It was not blown.Traces on the underside of the PCB were beyond that were damaged. If anything serious went wrong, it might blow as it should but that is rare. The amp would still turn on but the tubes would not glow-the problem you had this time. Caution: with the tubes not turning on, the high voltages will not bleed off, at least not quickly. The fuse holder is safe to touch under those conditions but not the tube socket pins.

I would like to strongly advise that you get rid of the JJ6V6 tubes and get Genalax Gold Lion 6V6s. You'll notice an improvement in the sound immediately. They'll sound better and last a whole lot longer. They cost a little over $60 for a matched pair. My experience with JJ 6V6s is an 80% failure rate in the first three months, 50% bad right out of the box. They are horrible. They may have even been a contributing factor in the failure this time. I did play it for a few hours with no problems. But nobody plays it the way you pay it. And I just don't trust those tubes. Fender uses them and labels them as Groove Tubes. They have a lot of failures while still under the 90-day tube warranty."
 
For the sake of anyone who might come across this thread in the future with similar problems, thought I would update to say I finally sent it off and got it fixed by Lynn Rochester (Ampworks) near Greenville SC for $120. Working like a charm now, and I'll just post our email exchanges below for info about what he found and did:

"I think the problem started with the two 6.3 volt supply lines from the transformer to the filaments of the tubes (filaments are what lights up). In my 41 years in business, I never gave 6.3 volts to light the tubes and pilot amp much thought. But a few years ago, everyone started putting all of the transformer wires into multi-pin connectors and trouble started. Yours is wired like that. The 6.3volt wires would cause things to burn if they were not simply soldered directly to the tube sockets. The first warning: Fender started putting a 10-amp fuse in line with the wires on their 65 Twin Reverbs.. The fuse holder would melt off the circuit board every time. In Bugeras, Egnators, and many other brands, the connector would melt every time. The fix has always been to simply bypass the connector somehow, at least as far as those two wires go.. I often shutter to think that for many years, I was building small low voltage relay circuits for channel switching. I was often holding the board I'd made in my hand, plugged in, and turned on. It might have been only 6.3 volts but there was 10 amps pulled through it.. The amplifier fuse isn't even more than 3 amps. I went back and checked your connector which is not visibly burned. Sure enough, all the damage was directly connected to those two wires. The pins inside the connector were lightly scorched. i could simply clean them. But it won't last. The correct fix is to solder the wires to someplace solid, straight to the tube sockets.. That should prevent this problem from recurring again. I'm trying to figure out the best place in the amp to solder the two wires."

"There is one fuse inside connected to the filament circuit. It is a small 5-amp fuse. It was not blown.Traces on the underside of the PCB were beyond that were damaged. If anything serious went wrong, it might blow as it should but that is rare. The amp would still turn on but the tubes would not glow-the problem you had this time. Caution: with the tubes not turning on, the high voltages will not bleed off, at least not quickly. The fuse holder is safe to touch under those conditions but not the tube socket pins.

I would like to strongly advise that you get rid of the JJ6V6 tubes and get Genalax Gold Lion 6V6s. You'll notice an improvement in the sound immediately. They'll sound better and last a whole lot longer. They cost a little over $60 for a matched pair. My experience with JJ 6V6s is an 80% failure rate in the first three months, 50% bad right out of the box. They are horrible. They may have even been a contributing factor in the failure this time. I did play it for a few hours with no problems. But nobody plays it the way you pay it. And I just don't trust those tubes. Fender uses them and labels them as Groove Tubes. They have a lot of failures while still under the 90-day tube warranty."
I wonder what connector they are using. Plenty of connectors are rated for 10A+, but it sounds like they cheaped out.

JJs used to be great tubes. The shop I worked in used them and Svetlana almost exclusively. The GTs were black-label Sovteks. Interesting that it's so different in only 15 years.
 
Last edited:
I haven't seen many problems w/ the JJ's either.

If the connector is properly spec'd for the load, there's shouldn't be a problem BUT if the designer doesn't consider that as part of the overall construction then it could be an issue. It could also be just a defective connector and unrelated to the design itself.

As a point of reference, I have run the heater circuits through multi-pin connectors off of transformers and have not seen any issues over a 20 year period on the guitar amps I designed, so it's not automatically a bad thing. This is on many thousands of amps, not just a home brew or two, and the heater current was MUCH higher than on a pair of 6V6's.
 
I have a question please. I have a 20T that i got as a basket case. No tubes, or power transformer.
Can anyone help at giving me the voltages, and wiring of the PT please. I got ahold of ampeg, and they
gave me no help. Said that there was no PT available. All production went to new amps. I will buy a
replacement. But I don't know the voltages, or the wiring schem.