considering a laptop cooling board or something to set my head on.. cheap fix?
There is no reason the design should be so poor that you need to add cooling. It's not a cheap no name import.
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considering a laptop cooling board or something to set my head on.. cheap fix?
Called Ampeg service center.. They said that when the fault light comes on, it usually doesn't go away. Mine only came on for 2 seconds after I turned the amp on, then stayed off the entire time. Volume and quality still sacrificed, intermittently came and went. No fault light today days after the gig, rig sounds great still. The fact that it's not even their regular problem is weird. Guess I'll be sending it back and hoping for better lucking with the replacement. Damn sure I'm going to put it through the paces before bringing it anywhere.
Even though I had already played the hell out of the thing. For 3 1/2 straight hours one practice days before the show. So annoying.Called Ampeg service center.. They said that when the fault light comes on, it usually doesn't go away. Mine only came on for 2 seconds after I turned the amp on, then stayed off the entire time. Volume and quality still sacrificed, intermittently came and went. No fault light today days after the gig, rig sounds great still.
The fact that it's not even their regular problem is weird. Guess I'll be sending it back and hoping for better lucking with the replacement. Damn sure I'm going to put it through the paces before bringing it anywhere.
somebody else asked me the same thing. Just curious why it wouldn't have affected anything from our first two sets.If the line power was low at the time, it could affect the fault light and the performance of the amp. Try a short instrument cable inserted between the pre-out and power amp in and see if the sound continues to come and go.
somebody else asked me the same thing. Just curious why it wouldn't have affected anything from our first two sets.
Forgot to mention, my threshold or peak light never came on once throughout the night. Thought it was because I had it dialed in right, but in hindsight maybe that was a fault too. Plugging it in at home with my settings still where they were at the night before, the thresh light did come on here and there as if it was working properly. Would substandard line quality affect things like that too?
Damn it does sound great too.Well if it makes you feel better, I've got almost 2 years on my PF800 and it's been a total tank.
thank you very much. Went with a markbass 800w, had it in stock today. I couldn't take the chance of that happening again based upon sporadic reviews of similar problems. I appreciate the insight though. Rock on.Line power fluctuates all day long. As demand goes up, the voltage can go down. For instance, if local air conditioners or heaters kick in as the evening progresses, the load put on the power company increases. At a gig, a lot of clubs have bad wiring. The voltage could already be low. As the stage lights crank up during the show, this can put a demand on the voltage level.
The peak light is partly affected by the input level from the bass. It is also affected by the amp's gain setting and the tone controls. They all have to be balanced to keep the light from being on too often. You don't need to set things so that the light never comes on. The light is a guide to let you know how hard you are driving the preamp.
Since the power line level affects the power supply voltage in the preamp, then it does affect the pre. It affects the entire amp. So settings from the night before could, if the power line voltages are different, affect the settings the next day.
The fault led is just for the power amp.
You won't want to crank it too darn hard because you're limited by the 15", but sure you can. I use a PF800 with cabs that it could destroy in 3 seconds all the time, but I keep an eye on the volume and I'm good.I wondered if I could run this head through an ampeg svt 1540 cab. Anyone help me out on this?
You won't want to crank it too darn hard because you're limited by the 15", but sure you can. I use a PF800 with cabs that it could destroy in 3 seconds all the time, but I keep an eye on the volume and I'm good.
First off, I'd stop throttling the sound with the -15db. That's only for those who can't get a clean sound out of their extremely hot basses any other possible way. The SVT 3 Pro puts out its rated power, but some people think it doesn't because it requires the gain to be pretty cranked and the input light to be lit up pretty well to get the full blast. PF800 would go louder and could blow your cab, but using your ears and the gray stuff between them prevents most people from blowing their cabs. But honestly, tilting your cab toward your ears a little and not using the -15db should get you some extra volume.Hi, I'm new to this thread, I own a V4b RI and run it through an AV 212. I have found at most gigs with full band, guitar, keys, drums, vocals I have been running out of headroom and find myself cranking gain and master to full to be heard thus sacrificing tone. I use the 15db feature as I run an active MM Stingray 5 mostly though it doesn't have an incredibly high output signal say compared to my Warwick 4 master built Corvette so am thinking next gig I will try running it through the 0 db input. Hopefully this will give me a cleaner signal at higher volumes.I was thinking along the lines of purchasing a PF 800 but am concerned that it may be overkill for my 4ohm 212 600watt cab so have also been considering an Svt 3 though reviews say these also have fallen short in volume and have wondered how much louder the pro 3 would be compared to the v4b? A bit disappointing really as I love the tone of my v4b before it turns to mush. Any suggestions welcome?
Thanks Jimmy, I won't use the -15b next gig and see how it goes, just wasn't sure if I might cause any damage as this is how the manual recommended running active basses. I just found it unusual that when gigging with my 100t Neo410 rig, using it in the 25 watt setting, same funk band, same venue, and though running it pretty well flat chat it still gave me a more usable sound than the V4b. I sold the 100t when I bought the V4b as I preferred the Ampeg tone. It wasn't a cab related incident either as I initially was using the V4b with a 410 and had similar experience as with the AV212. It would've been nice if Ampeg offered an 8omh AV212 so you could also run them safely either alone or coupled with some of their higher powered heads such as Svt pro 4 and 7. Considering the V4b runs at 8/4/2 ohms and that the Svt 4 and 7 would sound pretty sweet through 2 or 4 12's. It's good to have options.
Thanks, appreciate the feedbackThe -15db button is WAY over-kill - I don't even understand why that input even exists on an amp that is equipped with an adjustable gain circuit.
The RV4B is loud enough for me in every situation (when I have an appropriate sized cab) - but it would not be if I used that input.
First off, I'd stop throttling the sound with the -15db. That's only for those who can't get a clean sound out of their extremely hot basses any other possible way. The SVT 3 Pro puts out its rated power, but some people think it doesn't because it requires the gain to be pretty cranked and the input light to be lit up pretty well to get the full blast. PF800 would go louder and could blow your cab, but using your ears and the gray stuff between them prevents most people from blowing their cabs. But honestly, tilting your cab toward your ears a little and not using the -15db should get you some extra volume.