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Ampeg PF350/500 Part V

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I am having a hard time agreeing with the "this is a great amp" statements considering it will not make it through a show (for me, YMMV). Why does the amplifier say "125W" on the back where you plug it in? My markbass power supply was 600w: this one is "125W"....

That is minimum power supply ratings standard on any amp and has nothing to do with the output ratings but with the wall power you supply.


The manual even states that it will cut out on you because it will get too hot while your using it and then in seconds later it will come back on when it cools off. This is probably exactly what happened to me; and it was happening at the inputs above. While I can see how this is a "defective unit" as you say; I have all sorts of reservation on keeping this thing.

That part of the manual refers to the overheating protection circuit, which should be flashing the fault light if you're hitting that. In that case, try keeping the side vents and rear fan access clear like it also says in the manual. I've run mine for hours in my rehearsal space which can get into the 90+ degree range in the summer months with no fault. Either I have a super unit, or you'd have to really be cranking the snot out of this amp in high heat/blocking the airflow/running below 4 ohms to induce a heat related fault/failure on a regular basis.
 
n that case, try keeping the side vents and rear fan access clear like it also says in the manual. I've run mine for hours in my rehearsal space which can get into the 90+ degree range in the summer months with no fault. Either I have a super unit, or you'd have to really be cranking the snot out of this amp in high heat/blocking the airflow/running below 4 ohms to induce a heat related fault/failure on a regular basis.

I read all the cut out reports before buying. I knew full well not to block the vents and I made sure nothing was blocking those all night. The amp was by lonesome on top of the UL-410. Fan blowing all night; I don't think that caused the problem.
 
That is minimum power supply ratings standard on any amp and has nothing to do with the output ratings but with the wall power you supply.

So by your logic, my markbass LMII was drawing 600w all the time for minimum power supply? That is interesting; I'm out of the electronics designing business but I read the manual and that 125W (Volts * Amps = Watts) specification is the "power requirements" for the PF-500. The electrician in me says that this unit will only draw 125W given that label. And if the unit only specs to draw 125W then how do you suppose the thing ever draws 500w? I think the label on back near the power plug has everything to do with the capabilities of what the amp can draw from the wall at full power; those labels are designed more for electricians to know what the plug needs to be able to deliver. I see the maximum current specification on the back of every pro power amp, why should ampeg be different? I don't think they are; I really feel this amp is not 500w given the label. Is there some form of regulation on what the label has to say if the device is capable of drawing 500w?

Furthermore, I can't separate Loud Tech from Ampeg. My manual clearly says LOUD Tech all over it; and when you look at Mackie's specification they are not minimum draw, they are power requirements as well; designed to show what you need to give it in order to get the full amount available.
 
Mine is still rockin out with a 4 ohm load in a cramped warm rehearsal space. Sounds to me like you've got a defective amp just like everyone else has already stated. Happens to the best companies in world, no one can be perfect. That being said, most everyone on here who have had problems have had excellent customer service to correct those problems, so your next step should be to contact Ampeg. I love my amp and have had no troubles but I have my first outdoor gig coming up on the 25th so we'll see how it does in the extreme heat. I'm expecting nothing but awesomeness.
 
I've had my amp cut out briefly at a couple of shows. I'm pretty sure it was because I was pushing the preamp too hard. I haven't had any issues once I backed off the gain a bit and bumped the compressor up to about 9:00. I'm guessing that your amp is defective, but you might want to try backing off the gain a bit if you have a hot signal.

I sort of feel like an amp shouldn't be designed this way. I'm used to an amp just sounding bad if you push it too hard (and not cut off). But I also recognize that this 'design' has something to do with the power amp and really won't effect most people at all...
 
I've had my amp cut out briefly at a couple of shows. I'm pretty sure it was because I was pushing the preamp too hard. I haven't had any issues once I backed off the gain a bit and bumped the compressor up to about 9:00. I'm guessing that your amp is defective, but you might want to try backing off the gain a bit if you have a hot signal.

I sort of feel like an amp shouldn't be designed this way. I'm used to an amp just sounding bad if you push it too hard (and not cut off). But I also recognize that this 'design' has something to do with the power amp and really won't effect most people at all...

I would back off the gain but I was setting the amp's gain up the way Dino from Ampeg suggested on their youtube videos which is: find where the red peak light is blinking and back off till it stops. This was my gain setting procedure. Every bass has a different output level of course, so the gain knob position is really only relative to the output of what is plugged into it.

The first thing I did when that happened was roll the bass all the way off and set the compressor to 9 o'clock. I really do not think the preamp is the problem because my line level to the sound board never gave out and the show continued on. I really did not hear too big a drop in volume, I could just tell my amp cut out when I played a B on my E string. Again like I said, I highly doubt this amp is capable of 500w. I've got a 1980's peavey head (for a backup) that is 100w and is far louder than the PF-500 on the same cabinet.
 
So I played a show at a fairly large auditorium last night and for some reason they didn't want us to be P.A. assisted. There were no monitors and the only thing going through the system were vocals. Needless to say it was very difficult.
The redeeming part of this is that I used my pf500 with my two Ashdown 410's yesterday and it sounded great! It put out plenty of volume without even clipping or cutting out or even really being pushed all that hard. The only problem was a lack of lows perceived in the audience because not only did most of the bass go back behind the stage and was absorbed by the curtains, the stage also had an orchestra pit under it which ate up everything low.
Overall though, I was impressed by the sound of this thing and I'm sure in better situations then that it would portray the lows far better. (stinkin "sound guys")
 
I will attempt to give it another go with my 4 ohm 410 and the loudest band I play with this Thursday.

Tomorrow (monday) I will go out with my sealed 8 ohm 210 and see how that works for this low low volume show.

Hopefully I'll get lucky too like Marty and BassKitty. Adding to the challenge Thursday night will be shoddy power and 116db stage volume in a bright room, which will need more lows to be perceived. Here goes nothing..
 
My combo went into safe mode for the first time ever today. I never ran the amp through a 4 ohm cab. Today just like every other day ran though the 8ohm pf210 cab. Gain around 2, compressor around 1, volume around 3. Jazz bass with passive electronics volume around 75%. I was playing very softly on my fretless and it went into safe mode. I had to turn off the amp and turn it back on mid song....
I hope this was just a rare occurrence because I cannot have that happen again.
Only thing I did different today was I had a tuner plugged into the tuner out. Maybe this was the cause? The tuner wasn't even on during the song...
 
My combo went into safe mode for the first time ever today. I never ran the amp through a 4 ohm cab. Today just like every other day ran though the 8ohm pf210 cab. Gain around 2, compressor around 1, volume around 3. Jazz bass with passive electronics volume around 75%. I was playing very softly on my fretless and it went into safe mode. I had to turn off the amp and turn it back on mid song....
I hope this was just a rare occurrence because I cannot have that happen again.
Only thing I did different today was I had a tuner plugged into the tuner out. Maybe this was the cause? The tuner wasn't even on during the song...
The tuner will no effect on the amp.
 
kleinenenten said:
Just a quick hypothetical question: Could I run an Ampeg BA115 from the PF-500 while it is also powering a PF-210? How would I do it, and would it pose any harm to the 210 or the 115? I'm wondering because I want to get PF-500, 210, and 115, but am on a budget. I have a BA115, so I'm hoping to round out my sound with the 210, but still want the 115 (BA or PF) for the lows. Eventually, I plan to get the matching PF cabs.

Also, thanks to everyone for the contributions to this thread, I've been reading it like crazy and am blown away by the amount of info I've learned about this amp and amps in general. If I have any questions, you guys seem like the ones to ask! Thanks again!

You would have to split your signal with a tuner pedal (or similar) that has stereo outs, and run the amps in stereo- eq'ing each to compliment each other. That's how I run my B100R with a B15. You could also send a signal from the tuner out on the PF to the input of the BA, And that would act just like splitting the signal with a tuner pedal since its a straight shot through the amp without the PF's EQ and gain affecting it.
 
Sorry...misunderstood the question...I thought you wanted both cabs to be powered by the PF500. Ya, if you use both heads, that's a piece of cake. Just use the tuner out of the PF500 or the effect send if you have a tuner plugged in.
 
Thanks Jimmy and Stiles! That is exactly what I wanted to know.

Today I was at my local GC, and they finally had a matching PF-210 to try with the 350 (still no 500 though). It sounded great, but I also tried a used SVT 1510HE with the 350 and it sounded great too, but at half the price. Any input? Both cabs are 8ohms, and I'll definitely be getting another cab regardless of the one I buy first. Would a 1510 sound okay if I got another 15 or 10? Or would the make of the different cabs make for an odd sound? This is my first "real" amp/stack I'll be buying, and it's a huge investment on my part, I want to make sure it's money well spent.

If it helps, I'm definitely an Ampeg guy, just love that sound. I play heavy metal mostly, but still want a round sound, not just flat deep bass. Ideally, I'd like the flexibility to play any style and have it sound okay. I regularly use an active Ibanez 5-String, so I really want defined lows, but like I said, also decent highs and mids. Typically, my EQ on my BA115 is set like this:
Bass - 9 o'clock
Mid - 8 o'clock
Treble - 6 o'clock
Frequency (Mid-Voice Selector) - 2

Thanks again for everything guys!

Edit: New Idea... What would you think of using the 1510 and the PF210 together? I'm thinking I might have to go up to GC again tomorrow and test this out...

Another Edit: I guess I shouldn't get that 1510, it's only 175 watts, so wouldn't it blow if the PF-500 was putting 350w @ 8ohms into it?
 
I again stand by my word that this PF-500 is not a 500w amplifier. Certainly not doing 300w into an 8 ohm load. I was very very very quiet at over 2 o'clock main with a 2 o'clock pre-gain. I really do not think this amp will cut it for me. Sadly my Markbass LMII will cost as much as the PF-500 just to fix and that really irritates me! Looks like I went being able to gig to barely being able to cut it.... I stand by my word, this amp sounds like 125w at full volume with the pre-gain clipping.

I will only give ampeg a shot to make it good unless; it takes too long and I loose my ability to return the amp for my hard earned gig money back. 2 months of gig pay for an amp that makes me unable to gig is unacceptable. I would rather have a Fender 150 Rumble head at this point.. or a Hartke LH500 (cheaper). not to mention this amp cost me a 1.2 months pay of gig money. I have kids to feed and not amplifier companies to make rich.

I just got back from my gig, the drummer was playing with brushes and I had my gains way past noon on both pre and main, and it would barely do any kind of volume. 125w.. I swear. This is not 500w (whether mine is defective or not, I have no vote of confidence with this amp for the future). I have no idea what you guys consider loud, but it cannot hang with my blues bands. Blues.. Low volume, dinner music, blues. What a joke.

I also used the power amp in jack with my VT-Bass and found that this was still low volume although MUCH improved for punch, depth and tone. But still.. really not a 500w amplifier. My markbass LMII would scare me in volume, the PF500 is a pipsqueak.


Another Edit: I guess I shouldn't get that 1510, it's only 175 watts, so wouldn't it blow if the PF-500 was putting 350w @ 8ohms into it?

You do NOT want my opinion on this.. I think there is no way you could blow a speaker cabinet with either head. I do not think the PF-500 is capable of a true 500w, and I question the 300w 8 ohm rating as well. I would think this is more like a 100-200w amplifier, regardless of the 500w rating.
:hiding:
 
Stompin Tom said:
Again, sounds like there's something wrong with your head. Mine's very loud. Get's nice deep lows and can be super clear and articulate at high volumes (I usually run 2x15 @ 4 ohms).

+1 You've got a defective unit. I push an Ampeg 215LGS/Simmons cab loaded with JBL's with a PF500, and also run it on 1 or 2 PF115 cabs. While 2 cabs at 4 ohms obviously gives me more volume, even with just one cab it's still more than adequete. And watts are just watts. My B100R is only 100 watts but it sounds louder than many 3-400 watt amps I've played.
 
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