My friend has SVT-7 with G-K MB 212. I wonder how much db it can produce.
And you can't go wrong with SVT-4PRO! True monster.
And you can't go wrong with SVT-4PRO! True monster.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Ampeg PF350/500 Part VI
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
- Status
Well I'm sorry that the PF500 can't do anything to make you happy. I love mine and it has been very versatile. I've played it through the PF210s and 115. I've also played it through a Hartke 410, and the one I liked the most was a Hartke215sub. That was beastly and is known only for lows. My last two gigs have been straight out to the PA with no cab. I am very happy with it and get tons of compliments on the tone, and I've used it for rock, blues, worship, and I've dabbled in slapping. As long as you don't get unlucky and get one of the problem ones and you set the gain right, I recommend this amp for anyone.
Thanks for the welcome and the responses, guys. I really wanted to like the PF500 and I did so much research before I bought it, hoping I wouldn't be one of the unlucky ones who got a bad one. I have played this Tele bass through many bass amps, even cranked up lesser wattage ones, and this is the first time I have actually blown a head. Days after my practice session you can still smell burnt components through the back fan.
That said, I opted out of a replacement and just got my money back. This wasn't a good start for the first day of a new piece of gear, especially since my band is going on a mini-tour at the end of this week-- which is what I purchased the Ampeg for (I wound up borrowing a friend's amp for this tour.) I did love the sound but the trust issue for the head has outweighed the sound. And again, kudos to Zzounds who took it back right away and paid all shipping costs. My next amp will be purchased through them.
That said, I opted out of a replacement and just got my money back. This wasn't a good start for the first day of a new piece of gear, especially since my band is going on a mini-tour at the end of this week-- which is what I purchased the Ampeg for (I wound up borrowing a friend's amp for this tour.) I did love the sound but the trust issue for the head has outweighed the sound. And again, kudos to Zzounds who took it back right away and paid all shipping costs. My next amp will be purchased through them.
Got my cover open today doing some peeking around.
My Main Board is 2034544-01 REV: D
My Preamp Board is 2034705-_ _ _ REV: B_ _ _
Saw some people talking about that in part 1 of this thread.
ALSO IMPORTANT TO NOTE: The speaker output from the Main Board goes into a PCB assembly and runs through some form of inductor and series of resistors before heading to the speak-on or 1/4" speaker jack. So this part number is also relevant since it seems to be doing some sort of feedback loop with the amplifier output section.
PCB:2034778-00 REV: A00
As noted in this thread Mini 0r Micro Amps...I Must Be Missing Something and the wonderfully detailed post by agedhorse explaining how Class D amplifiers can be manipulated under load; this board is going to prove to have a very direct relation to that language given the coil and resistors on it. I'm not going to pull the board out to look at it, but clearly see the leads from the amplifier output section runs into those parts (by following the board traces and by this schematic) before hitting the jacks. That board also contains all of the backside connectors for DI, Tuner, FX Loop, and the Preamp out/Power Amp in connections, which come from the preamp and combine with the power amp on one board. I hate this solution from a technical perspective.. I think my output mains need to be nowhere near on the same PCB as the DI and other parts that run into the preamp. Talk about some bad isolation!
My Main Board is 2034544-01 REV: D
My Preamp Board is 2034705-_ _ _ REV: B_ _ _
Saw some people talking about that in part 1 of this thread.
ALSO IMPORTANT TO NOTE: The speaker output from the Main Board goes into a PCB assembly and runs through some form of inductor and series of resistors before heading to the speak-on or 1/4" speaker jack. So this part number is also relevant since it seems to be doing some sort of feedback loop with the amplifier output section.
PCB:2034778-00 REV: A00
As noted in this thread Mini 0r Micro Amps...I Must Be Missing Something and the wonderfully detailed post by agedhorse explaining how Class D amplifiers can be manipulated under load; this board is going to prove to have a very direct relation to that language given the coil and resistors on it. I'm not going to pull the board out to look at it, but clearly see the leads from the amplifier output section runs into those parts (by following the board traces and by this schematic) before hitting the jacks. That board also contains all of the backside connectors for DI, Tuner, FX Loop, and the Preamp out/Power Amp in connections, which come from the preamp and combine with the power amp on one board. I hate this solution from a technical perspective.. I think my output mains need to be nowhere near on the same PCB as the DI and other parts that run into the preamp. Talk about some bad isolation!
I think your experience with the PF-500 would be awesome with the Ampeg cabinets designed for it. Other cabinets may be a problem because the tone profile might not match well. I'll say it again, I think the Ampeg Portaflex series cabinets combined with the Portaflex Heads are a winning combination.
I have not been able to get the mids out of it that I need with an Epifani UL-410 or a Fearful 15/6/1. The Portaflex cabs are mid heavy and low end shy so they sound great with the head.
I've only got ampeg cabs, but the pf500 sounds good with all of them:
SVT410HE - single and stacked pair
SVT410HLF
SVT15E
PF210HE
All of them work very well for me and my 500. I'd like to be able to say one combination was the best of what I have, but they all sound so nice (I don't mix dissimilar cabs so don't ask what the 410 sounds like with the 15), I guess I'd have to say the pair of 410he cabs has the tiniest of edge, because the 2 together is just more than a single cab.
SVT410HE - single and stacked pair
SVT410HLF
SVT15E
PF210HE
All of them work very well for me and my 500. I'd like to be able to say one combination was the best of what I have, but they all sound so nice (I don't mix dissimilar cabs so don't ask what the 410 sounds like with the 15), I guess I'd have to say the pair of 410he cabs has the tiniest of edge, because the 2 together is just more than a single cab.
Carl the 410HE's match the tonal profile of the amp very well. I think you would find the EQ to have the most control over that stack; as opposed to the 410HLF which will have already accentuated lows and cones with less control behind them due to the porting vs sealed thing.
The Avatar B210 would probably work well too.
The Avatar B210 would probably work well too.
My PF-500 sounds great with every cab I own. My GK1001RB didn't. In the mid 70's, I used a Carvin amp and cab, along with some EVSRO loaded cabs. One day, I got a real deal on an SVT head. I loved it from the start, but it sounded far different than the Carvin. Our drummer didn't like it and kept asking me to go back to the Carvin. I recently went from the GK1001RB to the PF-500 and it's not unlike the change from Carvin to SVT. It's taking a while for the band to get used to the change. But I love the Ampeg.
My Main Board is 2034544-01 REV: C
My Preamp Board is 2034705-_ _ _ REV: B_ _ _
So your main board is newer.
A few notes to anyone that plans to work on a PF-350 or PF 500:
Disclaimer: I would not recommend working on a unit that is still under warranty.
If it is messing up, just sent it back and get a new one. Keep doing that until you get a good one.
If it is not under warranty, then OK.
- If you email Ampeg, they will send you a schematic to fix your unit.
- The power amp and Switch Mode Power Supply [SMPS] are both on the main board.
- The powersupply takes up most of the main board.
- The copper traces on main board are very thin. Be careful.
- The solder used is environmental friendly, meaning it is hard to get the solder to melt.
- Big capacitors are installed right in front of power transistors.
- Invent/design/make a right angle Phillips screwdriver with a Very Short distance from the tip to the bend. No, any one that you buy will be too big.
- If you don't install your transistors perfectly, then your heat sinks will not line up. [duh]
- The board on the output section provides final filtering for the class D amplifier. It only has passive components, not a cause for cutting out.
- The output transistors are IRFB4227. IRFB4127 is an upgrade for the IRFB4227. [Thanks beans-on-toast]
- The components are mostly surface mount. Flimsy copper traces - hard to melt solder - tight through holes - it is easy to damage the main board or heat sensitive components with too much heat from soldering. If you know someone who is an underpaid technician that routinely solders things while looking through a microscope all day, then buy him a burger and let him do all of the soldering for you.
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
My Main Board is 2034544-01 REV: C
My Preamp Board is 2034705-_ _ _ REV: B_ _ _
So your main board is newer.
A few notes to anyone that plans to work on a PF-350 or PF 500:
Disclaimer: I would not recommend working on a unit that is still under warranty.
If it is messing up, just sent it back and get a new one. Keep doing that until you get a good one.
If it is not under warranty, then OK.
- If you email Ampeg, they will send you a schematic to fix your unit.
- The power amp and Switch Mode Power Supply [SMPS] are both on the main board.
- The powersupply takes up most of the main board.
- The copper traces on main board are very thin. Be careful.
- The solder used is environmental friendly, meaning it is hard to get the solder to melt.
- Big capacitors are installed right in front of power transistors.
- Invent/design/make a right angle Phillips screwdriver with a Very Short distance from the tip to the bend. No, any one that you buy will be too big.
- If you don't install your transistors perfectly, then your heat sinks will not line up. [duh]
- The board on the output section provides final filtering for the class D amplifier. It only has passive components, not a cause for cutting out.
- The output transistors are IRFB4227. IRFB4127 is an upgrade for the IRFB4227. [Thanks beans-on-toast]
- The components are mostly surface mount. Flimsy copper traces - hard to melt solder - tight through holes - it is easy to damage the main board or heat sensitive components with too much heat from soldering. If you know someone who is an underpaid technician that routinely solders things while looking through a microscope all day, then buy him a burger and let him do all of the soldering for you.
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
I would read all that as meaning this board is meant to be replaced as a unit rather than having individual parts and components replaced.
I've had to work on those flimsy solder trace type boards just modding or replacing a component or two and they are NO FUN! Way too easy to ruin your board. If you choose to work on one be warned! Mil-spec soldering certification would help
LOL
I would read all that as meaning this board is meant to be replaced as a unit rather than having individual parts and components replaced.
I've had to work on those flimsy solder trace type boards just modding or replacing a component or two and they are NO FUN! Way too easy to ruin your board. If you choose to work on one be warned! Mil-spec soldering certification would help
You got it!!!
I was peeking not warming up the iron! All those suggestions above are golden. I always recommend a competent tech to do any of that stuff.
Peeking is good :thumbup:
I can't remember ever owning an amp of any type that I didn't look inside at least once or twice. Especially if they are tubes or user replaceable fuses in there.
The answer to that question is wide and varied. Some have had multiple problems and some have had zero problems. As with any product you buy you pays your money and takes your chances.
I owned my PF 500 for over a year with no issues and it was a very early model. I bought it a few months after release.
In this thread about 40% of pf500 owners had their amp cut out
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/portaflex-cutting-out-poll-881882/
Not exactly. They're similar, but the 7 Pro has a tube preamp while the PF500 is all SS.
- Status
