Ampeg SLM made 8x10?

[will33]

will33. Two questions.

Are only two of the Jensen drivers really enough to make a big difference?

And, does this modification affect the power handling capability of the cab?

Thanks for the tip. (I bought one of these for under $200, and part of the sellers pitch was to say it produced a lot of mud).

2 is enough as they're higher spl than the others, are producing highs the others aren't, and are up around ear level.

They can be run as is with amps up to roughly 250-300 watts (like the SVT) without degrading the power handling of the cab because each individual speaker isn't getting more than 40 or so watts.

They are guitar speakers (more akin to the early flatbacks). A bit of breakup at high volume is desirable to some folks. If you want them to stay clean as loud as they'll go or want to use a huge amp, a capacitor in front of them to tame the <100hz stuff a little might not be a bad idea.

I'd try them as is first, then worry about that if you feel they get too dirty too soon. There are 6 other drivers making clean lows, so I'd make my judgements from a ways out front of the cab. Not right next to it where the Jensens will be playing right in your ear and the others playing to your knees.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

will33.

Thanks for the tip.

What value, (and type) cap would be appropriate to make this modification work properly?

Thanks!

 

[will33]

There's a few guys here who've done it. A thread with something like "ampeg 810 + jensen mod50" or something in the title should draw them out for real world opinions.

I've used the 8ohm version of the same driver biamped 2-way with various woofers and a low crossover point and quite like it. Others have reported good results loading a paor in their 810's as well. The original flatbacks were essentially a bunch of guitar speakers playing bass. It's what gave them their character. The Mods are an affordable way to drop a couple in a newer 810 to get some of that character while keeping the bigger bottom of the newer, and "dark era" 810's.

 

[will33]

will33.

Thanks for the tip.

What value, (and type) cap would be appropriate to make this modification work properly?

Thanks!

Had it figured out in some old thread. Good luck finding it .

I'll try to dig it up, or recalculate. Won't happen fast on a phone though.

The speaker are inexpensive. So are caps. If it turns out not your thing, you could sell them and not lose much. I bought mine used for something like $25, but I don't think they're much over $40 new.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

Thanks for the information. I'll do a little research based on your information. Not sure of I would actually do the mod, since I don't really use the cab. I've got a lot better, (and more portable) cabs that sound great. I only bought the 810 I have because it did not cost much. My back hurts just looking at it though.

 

[will33]

$200 for an 810 is rediculously cheap. I'd just buy it and see how you like it. If it's not bright enough, throw a couple Mods in there, you'd still be into it for no more than $300. If you still don't like it, you'd still be able to sell it for more than that.

 

[will33]

Thanks for the information. I'll do a little research based on your information. Not sure of I would actually do the mod, since I don't really use the cab. I've got a lot better, (and more portable) cabs that sound great. I only bought the 810 I have because it did not cost much. My back hurts just looking at it though.

I didn't realize you already owned the cab. The Mods will brighten it up and give it more character for $100 or less, but if you don't use it anyway, why bother?

Incidentally, a single Mod in a 1cu.ft. sealed box makes a pretty righteous little home practice/back porch jam cab for my ValveJr., for both bass and guitar.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

Yeah. Thanks. Mine cost 175 bucks, and the lower part looks like it was dragged on the pavement to its last gig. (The bottom cavity is now ported!)
If I refurbish it, I'll patch it up, and DuraTex it. It does look impressive, (even if I don't really use it).

 

[will33]

Yeah. Thanks. Mine cost 175 bucks, and the lower part looks like it was dragged on the pavement to its last gig. (The bottom cavity is now ported!)
If I refurbish it, I'll patch it up, and DuraTex it. It does look impressive, (even if I don't really use it).

The bottom panel would need replacing. If other seams have worked loose, it works pretty well to pry them open a little further with a screwdriver or something and let some runny wood glue, like Titebond II, perhaps diluted with a little water if need be, seep down into the cracks, then clamp or screw them shut.

Duratex or truckbed liner and a textured roller is a good way to go if you (or a potential buyer) aren't concerned about "period correct" tolex. Can make it look virtually the same from a couple feet away. It's all just basic black after all.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

Yeah. No worry about period correct on this thing. It will never be worth much.

On the other hand, my '63 B15 with rough vinyl, will never be DuraTexed.

I may never restore it either.

I'm an old geezer, and I don't think I'll ever be restored, so my gear and I are compatible on that basis.

I do have some nice shiny new stuff so I can, (at least) look respectable if I have to.

 

[will33]

Yeah. No worry about period correct on this thing. It will never be worth much.

On the other hand, my '63 B15 with rough vinyl, will never be DuraTexed, and I may never fix that either.

I'm an old geezer, and I don't think I'll ever be restored either, so my gear and I are compatible on that basis.

I do have some nice shiny new stuff. So, I can (at least) look respectable if I have to.

The weathered old stuff that still works and sounds great wins more "respectable" points with me than shiny new gizmo's. (I'm only 42).