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Ampeg SVT3 Pro question

There’s a buffered voltage amp tube and a driver tube.

I believe these can be removed along with removing the F2 fuse.

Wasnex would know better,
 
Ok, thanks
There’s a buffered voltage amp tube and a driver tube.

I believe these can be removed along with removing the F2 fuse.

Wasnex would know better,

Ok, thanks. You obviously know a lot more than I do.

Although I’ve had a string of lucky successes with Craigslist “broken” amps lately. Mostly just recapping filter caps. And yes, I discharge the old ones to the frame before sticking my fingers in there ;)
 
Ok, thanks


Ok, thanks. You obviously know a lot more than I do.

Although I’ve had a string of lucky successes with Craigslist “broken” amps lately. Mostly just recapping filter caps. And yes, I discharge the old ones to the frame before sticking my fingers in there ;)
I would be beyond surprised if any of the caps were even close to bad on this amp.
 
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I would be beyond surprised if any of the caps were even close to bad on this amp.

The issue with this amp is beyond obvious, and I never even once considered it was because of the filter caps. That was a reference to other "broken" amps I got on CL, and why my past successes gave me the confidence to take a chance on this $50 Ampeg SVT3-Pro.

'65 Twin Reverb Reissue - $400 and the cost of new preamp tubes. works perfectly now
'98 Fender Twin Amp - $200 and the cost of caps. Works perfectly now
Roland JC-120 - $100 and the cost of caps. Works perfectly now
Acoustic B2 - $40 and the cost of caps. Works perfectly now

There have been a few amps that were beyond my repair ability: the combos became external speaker cabinets, the heads salvaged for parts. Even if I knew what I was doing I may not have spent the time fixing them anyway. A Peavey Duece? Working perfectly they're not a hot seller on the used market.

I have a couple more "broken" amps to go, and I even consider this SVT3 Pro a success because at $50 the preamp still works. If Ampeg offered a rack mount tube preamp for $50, I'm pretty sure they would sell a bunch of them.
 
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a lot of the nonworking solid state amps i find are from mainly tube techs not knowing the difference between a collector and an emitter, but that's where proper troubleshooting comes in. insert test signal, use the scope to see where it stops. had to learn the hard way that a sick solid state amp should be run on a current-limiting device until everything as good, usually without a load (newer amps are more ruggedly-designed, but those old tuck and roll kustoms will take out the output transistors and unobtanium driver transistors if everything is not copacetic. once the magic smoke leaves it's mighty hard to put it back in)