This, read this.
Your new amp will be slightly less louder than turning your current amp’s master volume control up one click.
So unless you are hitting the limiter in your current amp, just turn up.
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Amps w/Power @8 Ohms?
- Thread starter Count Bassie
- Start date
Your new amp will be slightly less louder than turning your current amp’s master volume control up one click.
So unless you are hitting the limiter in your current amp, just turn up.
Wearing shorter shoes will make your current setup louder. To you.
One thing to keep in mind is, the published wattage rating for many cabs is its thermal rating, not its mechanical rating. Many cab manufacturers publish thermal ratings rather than mechanical ratings because the thermal rating is usually higher (i.e., it sounds more impressive to potential buyers). I'm not familiar enough with Bag End cabs to know if their published wattage rating is thermal or otherwise, but it is quite possible that although its published wattage rating is 600, it might not be able to actually handle that much power from a mechanical perspective. So perhaps your 400 watt amp output is actually a good match for your Bag End cab. Just my two cents.I've got a Bag End 410, a Q10BX-D, the deep one. Nice cab, 600w @8 o ohms.
I'm interested in getting the most out of it, I've been running a Mesa Subway into it, a TT-800, which has a rating of 400w @8 ohms. Maybe it's just me working it up, but I figured I'd post here, where all the "gear-conscious" (overworking-it gear obsessed freaks, lol) people go to make sure they're on top of their gear game.
Just kinda curious about a rec for an amp that puts out 600w into an 8 ohm load. I appreciate your time!
The sensitivity rating of the Q10BX-D is around 103dB 1W/1m. With 400W the calculated SPL is ~129dB. Hard to imagine you needing more than this.
I suggest sticking with 400W. Why? Mechanical power handling is often less than a bass cabs RMS power rating. In other words the cab may not be able to handle 600W at all frequencies below 100hz. If you need more volume, it's a better solution to get a matching cab.
Even if the cab can handle 600W below 100hz, your probably not really leaving much on the table. The calculated decibel difference from raising the power from 400W to 600W is 1.76dB, which is a small, but noticeable change. However, as drivers approach their limits they tend to become more compressed, so the actual decibel change will be less than 1.76dB
If you insist on 600W or more at 8 ohms, you could go with a professional power amp.
In general, solid state amps deliver more power as the impedance goes down. So if you need 600W at 8 ohms, the amp may be capable of 1200W at 4 ohms.
Another option may be a bass amp with dual mono outputs that can be bridged. You could consider the new GK 2001RB Legacy. One side of the 2001RB Legacy only gives you 300W at 8 ohms. However if you bridge both outputs, you get 800W at 8 ohms.
From the product page:
I suggest sticking with 400W. Why? Mechanical power handling is often less than a bass cabs RMS power rating. In other words the cab may not be able to handle 600W at all frequencies below 100hz. If you need more volume, it's a better solution to get a matching cab.
Even if the cab can handle 600W below 100hz, your probably not really leaving much on the table. The calculated decibel difference from raising the power from 400W to 600W is 1.76dB, which is a small, but noticeable change. However, as drivers approach their limits they tend to become more compressed, so the actual decibel change will be less than 1.76dB
If you insist on 600W or more at 8 ohms, you could go with a professional power amp.
In general, solid state amps deliver more power as the impedance goes down. So if you need 600W at 8 ohms, the amp may be capable of 1200W at 4 ohms.
Another option may be a bass amp with dual mono outputs that can be bridged. You could consider the new GK 2001RB Legacy. One side of the 2001RB Legacy only gives you 300W at 8 ohms. However if you bridge both outputs, you get 800W at 8 ohms.
From the product page:
I don't need it louder, this whole thing has actually been more about headroom than anything, but the truth is it's not really an issue, at this point anyway.
I'm also 6'1" in sneakers.
Some new information to me here, thanks for that thermal vs mechanical info, @SactoBass & @Wasnex ...
There have been several posts here which have pretty much convinced me that I don't need anything, and that's exactly what I want to hear!
Right on, and thank you everybody for taking part!
There have been several posts here which have pretty much convinced me that I don't need anything, and that's exactly what I want to hear!
Right on, and thank you everybody for taking part!
Not a big fan of their heads... Yeah they sound nice, but there's something about the sound I can't marry up to...The mark bass little mark ninja 58R does 600 watts into a 8 ohm load.
I apologize for making posts that may have helped to talk you out of buying a new amplifier or new speaker cabinets.
Perhaps we can interest you in a new bass.
Think of it this way. A new bass would cost almost nothing when you consider how much money you saved by not buying a new amplifier.
Perhaps we can interest you in a new bass.
Think of it this way. A new bass would cost almost nothing when you consider how much money you saved by not buying a new amplifier.
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I almost went for the Trace last year when I was perusing amp heads. I just though it was too much $... I got my TT-800 used locally from a guy I trust with this kind of thing.
I do dig Trace Elliott, I would pick up a Series 6 or an SMX in a New York minute. I'll have the cash in a few weeks...
That's just because. I don't need one... I've got an old Mk IV in pieces on a bench. I don't think it's going to live, I bought it in its three sections. But that's another thread.
Count Bassie said: "Go on! I'm listening!..."
OK Count Bassie. (Off topic, but I had the great pleasure of attending a show performed by the real Count Basie with his big band at the Antlers Hotel Ballroom in Milwaukee a long time ago).
Since I am spending all the money you saved by not buying a new amp, I think what you need is a Fender Tony Franklin Fretless Precision Bass (in the no longer made sunburst finish) to make your setup complete.
Here is mine:
I play it through a twenty-five watt Ampeg B-15, (made in 1963). If anyone wanted to hear me play it loud, I would put an Electro Voice RE20 michrophone in front of the JBL D140 and run it through the PA. Or I would run it through through my Mesa WD, or D800+ and Subway cabinets.
OK Count Bassie. (Off topic, but I had the great pleasure of attending a show performed by the real Count Basie with his big band at the Antlers Hotel Ballroom in Milwaukee a long time ago).
Since I am spending all the money you saved by not buying a new amp, I think what you need is a Fender Tony Franklin Fretless Precision Bass (in the no longer made sunburst finish) to make your setup complete.
Here is mine:
I play it through a twenty-five watt Ampeg B-15, (made in 1963). If anyone wanted to hear me play it loud, I would put an Electro Voice RE20 michrophone in front of the JBL D140 and run it through the PA. Or I would run it through through my Mesa WD, or D800+ and Subway cabinets.
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When I was young we used to reckon that in order to be reasonably safe you needed 50% more speaker watts than amp watts. With little extra volume to be had, as @Redbrangus demonstrates, the extra amp wattage would do little other than increase the chances of damaging the cabinet.
At those power levels, you’re probably looking at rack amps that can be bridged. I have a QSC and a Crown power amp that would do the job - but honestly, I don’t think you’ll notice much difference throwing a bit more wattage at it. Probably notice more with a hpf added to your current setup, if you’re not using one.
Otherwise, I think my Bugera Veyron is rated for like 8,000 Watts. Hahaha
Otherwise, I think my Bugera Veyron is rated for like 8,000 Watts. Hahaha
I've been wanting an unlined fretless. This is a bad idea.Count Bassie said: "Go on! I'm listening!..."
OK Count Bassie. (Off topic, I know, but I had the great pleasure of attending a show performed by the real Count Basie with his big band, (not Bassie), at the Antlers Hotel Ballroom in Milwaukee a long time ago).
Since I am spending all the money you saved by not buying a new amp, I think what you need is a Fender Tony Franklin Fretless Precision Bass (in the no longer made sunburst finish) to make your setup complete.
Here is mine:View attachment 7482117
I play it through a twenty-five watt Ampeg B-15, (made in 1963). If anyone wanted to hear me play it loud, I would put an Electro Voice RE20 michrophone in front of the JBL D140 and run it through the PA. (Or through my the Mesa WD, or D800+ and Subway cabinets).
If you're going to run a 1,000 watt power amp, it can work fine for headroom. I used to crank my poweramp, and just be aware of my preamp volume.
What you get is all your low end without straining an amplifier's power section. That was our school of thought on it.
Nowadays we have more efficient speaker systems that can handle more power, so it's not difficult to pull together a system that gives you headroom and is lower risk for speaker damage.
I disagree. It is a great idea.I've been wanting an unlined fretless. This is a bad idea.
I own some very nice basses, and the TF fretless is right up there with the best of them. I bought mine used from a TB seller who had replaced the factory tuners (that had a drop-D originally from Fender) with a lighter weight set that did not have that feature and it is a spectacular instrument. He included the original tuning machines, but I like it the way it is.
I bought an unlined Cort fretless brand new for less than a hundred bucks when a local music store went out of business, and another store, (Cream City Music) bought out the inventory (lock, stock, and barrel as the old saying goes) that has a very slight hump at one spot one the finger board that I intend to fix with a scraper that I can make out of a piece of steel, that for the money, will be a very nice instrument once I fix the minor fingerboard defect. A nice 80 dollar fretless that is fun to play.
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If you point your cabinets at your ears, you'll be asking for recommendations for lower power amps.
If I was wearing Shorter(s) shoes, I would be playing sax instead of bass.
My legs happen to be long enough that my feet, (usually) just barely touch the ground with a light touch while I perambulate the planet. It's kind of funny how all that stuff works out.
All in jest here at this point.
My legs happen to be long enough that my feet, (usually) just barely touch the ground with a light touch while I perambulate the planet. It's kind of funny how all that stuff works out.
All in jest here at this point.
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