If one were shopping for one of these, how would said person discern what rev # they were getting? Possible to figure this out beforehand?
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If one were shopping for one of these, how would said person discern what rev # they were getting? Possible to figure this out beforehand?
When in doubt, go for the headroom !![]()
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Some of us like to use smaller amplifiers specifically for the purpose of cranking the bejeezus out of them.![]()
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PF-500 killer!
Okay that's enough out of me before it's taken serious and panties get in a wad.
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Class D has its issues, mostly to the ear more than anything else. These failures sound like a design flaw, nothing specific to class D.
Sounds pretty bad to me if they are already on Rev J for a board that has been in production for a while and the issue is still happening.
Buy the PF-350 or PF-800?![]()

Some of us like to use smaller amplifiers specifically for the purpose of cranking the bejeezus out of them.![]()
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Which of the failure modes applies to the "turned it on, it popped and never came on again"? That happened to a fair amount of us. Mine happened in the store as a final listen before I took it home, which is why I always roll my eyes at the "user error" comments.


which is why I always roll my eyes at the "user error" comments.
I spent the last three years playing a B-18 head, and currently play a homebuilt preamp based on the B-15/B-18. I love SVT's (don't love the weight, or I'd probably be playing one)...
...but I'm also an Electrical Engineer and I know Ampeg has/had significant issues with these amps, and seems to not want to admit it.
It seems that way. It might not BE that way, but perception is reality.
As long as Loud SEEMS not to want to admit an issue exists, seeming not to take care of their customers in a pro-actively good manner, they will LOOK as if they don't care.
Now, Hodgy is a good guy. But he isn't speaking for Ampeg, and I doubt that the higher-ups would really appreciate him appearing to.
What speaks for any company is the willingness to officially say "There is a problem with the product you bought, it's OUR problem, and NOT your problem. So here's what we will do about it"..... Followed hopefully by something which actually will help all buyers, and not just those who happen to still be under warranty.
1) Ages ago in the 1970s, A Japanese company called Sansui had a problem with a certain home stereo receiver. It just wasn't reliable. So, what they did was to repair any one that was brought in. Authorized shops obtained repair kits, which essentially were a complete new amplifier portion. Those were installed under warranty. IIRC it didn't matter a lot if the unit was still under the original warranty. I did a bunch of them when I was working thru school.
2) I personally own a couple Japanese (Canon) digital cameras. One of them went wonky years after the warranty was gone. All pictures were missing the blue colors. By chance, I found out it was a known problem that I should call Canon about. Canon paid to have the off-of-warranty camera shipped to them, fixed, and shipped back. Now works fine. And I'll not even LOOK at a different brand.
Moral is that if you have a KNOWN bad problem, you should not limit fixes to warranty only, even if that is the only legal requirement. Far better to discover a fix, and apply that to any product with the problem. Buyers are still 'customers" even if their unit is off warranty.
It's a "stand-up" way to go about your business, and your customers will be 10x more loyal afterwards.
For normal stuff, sure, warranty is when you fix whatever is wrong for free, and afterwards, everyone understands it is a pay-for-service situation.
But for a real problem/screw-up, warranty shmarranty....It's your problem and you should fix it.
EDIT:
If it really IS a small proportion of units, it won't cost much to fix, will it? Charge it to advertising!
So, what's the good revision level with these? Rev D?