Any auto mechanics out there......

[jamestown94west]

I had to cancel a high profile gig once that not only paid well, but was supposed to have us playing for a band who's lead singer/guitarist is a well known producer who was interested in meeting us. I smashed two fingers underneath a set of brake rotors a week before the gig. I smashed em really bad. I had to cancel all rehearsals that week, and gingerly try to practice at home. Ended up cancelling the gig. I couldn't do anything about it except rest. My band mates were understanding, but also furious.

 

[Truktek2]

All good suggestions, but I wouldn't bother with a scanner unless you're planning on doing alot of side work. They can be mucho dinero and the dealer would supply one specific to the vehicle they're servicing. You can get a cheapo code reader, but they would be limited in their functionality.

Since you're just starting out, I doubt you'd be doing many driveability concerns at this stage of the game anyway. Look into SK or craftsman pro series. Best bang for the buck imo.

 

[Truktek2]

I wear gloves for the regular everyday stuff (fueling trucks and tractors, 3-points, PTO's, chain binders, etc....)
but they have to come off if I'm dealing with nuts, bolts and such.

I used to feel the same way, but once I got used to latex gloves, I can't work without them.

 

[nortonrider]

I used to feel the same way, but once I got used to latex gloves, I can't work without them.

I do a lot of carburetor work and not being able to feel those little parts just doesn't fly for me.
I blew the tips of my fingers apart on my left hand with an M-80 when I was a kid. between the scaring, and calloused thick skin from playing my bass, it's a wonder I can feel anything.

I got a box of nitril disposable gloves to use with my ultrasonic parts cleaner last winter, I don't think the box has ever been opened.

 

[68Goldfish]

This is a valid point. Snap On stuff is ungodly expensive and it's no guarantee that you can actually fix anything just because you have them. A combination wrench set from 10mm-19mm will run you $250+ off the Snap On truck. Good stuff but you could get by with less expensive than that. I've been doing this for 30 years and lately I've embarked on what I call the "cheap tool challenge"..... where I'm swapping my expensive Snappy stuff with my cheap stuff from home. Right now I've got more Snap On tools at home than I do at the shop. My chrome 1/4" and 3/8" inch sockets are Kobalt (none of the sets costing more than $9), my wrenches are Duralast (none of them were more than $11 each) and my impact sockets are a mix of Husky, Harbor Freight and Tractor Supply and I've yet to have an issue with any of the cheap tools.

That's funny that you say that. One time, several years ago, I got pissed at my boss so I came in on the weekend and took home my 3 bay matco box and all my tools. I came back with a small roll around with a lid and three drawers and made it my mission to get my job done with the least amount of tools I could. No duplicates of anything and just the basics. I quite not long after that and got my current job at the dealership. Thing is, there's still more tools in my box that I never/hardly use than there is tools that I use every day. That goes for just about any long time mechanic though.

 

[iamlowsound]

You will be on your feet on concrete all day, good boots are priceless. Red Wings are the best there are and they have grip on oil as well.

lowsound

 

[Mike N]

It's a common belief that all Craftsman tools have a lifetime warranty, but only certain ones actually do--I think it's mostly those that are all chrome. Even my first click torque wrench, which I bought at Sears in 1985 for an engine rebuild job, had only a 90-day or 6-month warranty or something like that (it ended up lasting about 25 years before the adjustment knob, made of plastic, cracked and broke off--well, I got my money's worth from it in that time anyway).

I was looking at some Crapman stuff at the local Ace Hardware the other day and noticed the lack of "USA" on the ratchets and extensions. They even felt cheaper, but sadly the price didn't reflect that.

 

[Mike N]

That's funny that you say that. One time, several years ago, I got pissed at my boss so I came in on the weekend and took home my 3 bay matco box and all my tools. I came back with a small roll around with a lid and three drawers and made it my mission to get my job done with the least amount of tools I could. No duplicates of anything and just the basics. I quite not long after that and got my current job at the dealership. Thing is, there's still more tools in my box that I never/hardly use than there is tools that I use every day. That goes for just about any long time mechanic though.

Funny you say that, not long ago I was tempted to take my 3 bay Matco home and bring back my single bay Snap On home box with my cheapo tools in it. Seems I had to do a job that required a specific tool that I didn't have (no one else did, either) and the SM gave me a hard time for it. Really?? I'm sick of buying tools, the shop supplies little to nothing and expects the techs to buck up for everything.

 

[mike phillips]

stay away from turning wrenches. I have done it for 34 years now. its a hard road. i was warned and didn't listen. please listen.

 

[ThaiBoxR]

I was a mechanic for 5 years through independent shops and Honda dealerships. 4 Certificates and an associates in Automotive Technology.

As said above, you'll always be getting more tools. What I recommend though is not what you buy, but HOW you buy. Don't cheap out on your every day, every car type tools. Impact sets, sockets, extensions, prybars (for safety) are things you shouldn't cheap out on. The tools that you buy for one-time jobs are not exactly where you want to spend high end money. There are exceptions of course.

Take advantage of the school discount!

When I started in a tire shop, I used an impact all day every day, and sockets galore. I got top of the line with warranty, because those kinds of tools are essential and need to be durable. The big cardinal sin in a shop is borrowing tools. If you have to borrow it more than once, go ahead and buy it. DO NOT think its cool because a coworker just lets you borrow it. He might not speak up, but mechanics hate that! Some will straight up refuse after you get your first paycheck or until you put some time into the shop.

I have a thing where when I lose or break something like a cheap socket, I replace it with a higher end part, not the whole set. You're not going to break all your stuff, but more likely the things you use regularly will go first. Don't get discouraged when looking at experienced guys' boxes. They've accumulated thousands of dollars worth of high end tools over an extended period of time. Most of them also are still making payments on a lot of that!

Invest in anything to make your job go FASTER and easier. Work smarter not harder. Because in that industry time is money and it can be very stressful when on a deadline.

For example, I bought an electric driver to zip airboxes, splash guards, accessories, interior panels etc off in seconds, that frees up time that I need to spend on the bigger repairs or the work that needs to be timed consistently. Doing things like that by hand will kill your time. Also buy things that help your agility in the engine bay. Things like pivotal extensions and ratchets. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions and good luck to you! Always good to know people are getting out there in the field!

 

[Mike N]

I was a mechanic for 5 years through independent shops and Honda dealerships. 4 Certificates and an associates in Automotive Technology.

Are you still a tech or did you move on? If you moved on, can I ask why? I find more guys leaving this trade for greener pastures every day. I'm a lifer and there aren't a whole lot of guys like me left.

 

[1958Bassman]

Hand care is really important for us musicians. One NAMM show some years ago, I saw the Laurel Canyon Ramblers perform one evening. One of the vocalists used to also be a guitarist. Used to be. A skilsaw accident had taken off half the pinky and ring finger and the tip of the middle finger on his left hand. I thought, wow, man, that's permanent. Imagine playing an instrument you love all your life, and then never being able to again because of a single slip-up while trying to do something useful.

I play soccer, too, and a couple years ago did a season as my then-club's goalkeeper. After a few weeks of tipping and blocking shots my fingers were always sore and felt like I was developing arthritis. I can deal with bruises and scrapes on my body, legs, arms, etc., but the looming prospect of possibly not being able to play music was really scary. I discovered the existence of GK gloves that have fingersaves (splines behind the fingers that extend down the back of the hand). They were more expensive but well worth it because my fingers soon felt normal again.

So yeah, I've gotten into the habit of wearing gloves when I'm working on an engine, brakes, etc. I can always take a glove off temporarily when I need some better dexterity. But I watch out for my hands better than I used to.

Gallien Krueger makes soccer accessories? Wow!

 

[ThaiBoxR]

Are you still a tech or did you move on? If you moved on, can I ask why? I find more guys leaving this trade for greener pastures every day. I'm a lifer and there aren't a whole lot of guys like me left.

I left the field on New Year's Eve, symbolically I guess. I left for several reasons.

1.) Its brutal on the body. Most guys I've worked with are arthritis-ridden or have messed up backs. Both of my back injuries have been due to this field. I would get out of bed every morning and hobble to the bathroom in pain. And I almost had a heart attack at 25. We found out I was hypertensive and the stress damn near put me down.

2.) Money & Experience. There are guys who've been in 30+ years and its hard to get the high pay work they have. They won't leave, so the little guys don't get as much good work. And they don't move over. After 5 years of fighting my way up, I was broke simply put. I made more money as a delivery driver working part time. The money can be there, but not overnight and at a cost.

3.) I hated the pressure of time constraints. And I found I just much more enjoy working on cars as a hobby, than I do professionally.

When I left Honda in December, I was the last person on my original team. Everyone had left (shipyards, Air Force, someplace better). When I left, the only people that were on that team were people I trained.

I'm much happier. I still work on cars in my spare time and help friends and family, and I give a lot of advice on car forums etc. But that world was going to be the death of me.

 

[Mike N]

I left the field on New Year's Eve, symbolically I guess. I left for several reasons.

1.) Its brutal on the body. Most guys I've worked with are arthritis-ridden or have messed up backs. Both of my back injuries have been due to this field. I would get out of bed every morning and hobble to the bathroom in pain. And I almost had a heart attack at 25. We found out I was hypertensive and the stress damn near put me down.

2.) Money & Experience. There are guys who've been in 30+ years and its hard to get the high pay work they have. They won't leave, so the little guys don't get as much good work. And they don't move over. After 5 years of fighting my way up, I was broke simply put. I made more money as a delivery driver working part time. The money can be there, but not overnight and at a cost.

3.) I hated the pressure of time constraints. And I found I just much more enjoy working on cars as a hobby, than I do professionally.

When I left Honda in December, I was the last person on my original team. Everyone had left (shipyards, Air Force, someplace better). When I left, the only people that were on that team were people I trained.

I'm much happier. I still work on cars in my spare time and help friends and family, and I give a lot of advice on car forums etc. But that world was going to be the death of me.

Good for you for moving up and on. I really hope the OP sees this post and takes it for what it's worth, and to me it speaks volumes about this industry.

Here's a great thread about becoming a mechanic from nearly 4 years ago.....

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f34/how-do-i-become-mechanic-603277/

 

[68Goldfish]

On the other hand.....I can't believe that I've made 100K for the last three years with only a high school diploma. I've alaway's made good money and now I make realy good money, probably on the order or 45 to 55 dollers an hour. It's do-able if you apply yourself and don't let anybody stand in your way.

 

[Mike N]

On the other hand.....I can't believe that I've made 100K for the last three years with only a high school diploma. I've alaway's made good money and now I make realy good money, probably on the order or 45 to 55 dollers an hour. It's do-able if you apply yourself and don't let anybody stand in your way.

I believe you are the exception rather than the norm is this field. Most I made was $72k and that was in 2004. I've made an average of $10k less in the last five years and I earn $4 more per frh than I did in '04. Falling labor times and longer vehicle warranties have both played a part in this as well as SM's and SA's giving jobs away just to make a sale. I really feel like I work harder than I ever did and I'm going backwards. Yay me.....

 

[srxplayer]

Question about that. My mechanic told me once that if I needed a torque wrench and couldn't get the Snap-on(and that's just silly for me), the old style swing-gauge torque wrenches were good. Any truth to that?

This is true. Those are accurate but they are hard to use if you aren't standing right over it to read it correctly. I have on old Craftsman like that. It belonged to my dad who bought bit in the late 60's. I absolutely trust it and still use it when it's practical.

 

[will33]

Another shade-tree guy here, ever since I could operate a 2-cylinder John Deere with the hand-clutch (which my Dad figured was about the ripe old age of 6 years, and he was right).

The other guys working professionally in the trade can school you about the business end of the field, and are doing a good job of it, lots of great advice in this thread.

From the day to day end of it.....

1. The most important thing there is, is your brain. Logical, mechanical thought. As far as internal combustion engines go, your lawn mower and a ferrari operate on the same principle. The difference between the two is presicion design/manufacturing and computerized, electronic control systems. Modern cars have so much more to do with electronic/computerized control, to squeeze the most out of the old fashioned engine. Electronics knowledge is an absolute must, and will separate the grease monkeys from the guys they report to.

2. Modern vehicles are much smaller and have much more packed under the hood and behind the dashboard. A basic socket set now should include a wide variety of extensions and u-joint. 1 or 2 doesn't get you where you need to go anymore.

3. A good electrical meter is good, but the knowledge and Intuition about what's happening in the car that allows you to find problems with a basic one is priceless.

4. Back to the modern car thing....you have to be able to see the engineering behind the design in order to appreciate how it works. On one of my cars, you could get the alternator loose from it's mounts easy enough, but you had to remove the drivers side transaxle to be able to physically remove the alternator from the car and fit the new one in. At first, this seems stupid as these 2 parts have nothing to do with each other. Upon further inspection, it allowed them to design things in such as way as to make this vehichle pretty high performance, keep a compact engine compartment, provide good cooling for the alternator, and maximize space inside the car. And, if you new what you were doing, it didn't take 20-30 minutes to tear that wheel/hub/axle assembly apart and get it out of the way.

Stuff ain't like it used to be. On my first vehicle (a '56 GMC truck, bought at a garage sale (my Mom still has it)), I could fit myself, a 12-pack, and my toolbox under the hood and hang out there all day....not so anymore.

 

[tova]

get a lot of spare torx 30 bits

 

[68Goldfish]

I believe you are the exception rather than the norm is this field. Most I made was $72k and that was in 2004. I've made an average of $10k less in the last five years and I earn $4 more per frh than I did in '04. Falling labor times and longer vehicle warranties have both played a part in this as well as SM's and SA's giving jobs away just to make a sale. I really feel like I work harder than I ever did and I'm going backwards. Yay me.....

I feel ya. If you think aftermarket warranty is bad you should try factory warranty. I get a kick out of the new guys that come through the first time they get screwed working on a car under factory warranty. "What do you mean I just worked on this car for three hours and your going to pay me two tenths". LOL Get used to it son. It's actualy worse now because Chysler's made it to where you have to be certified to work on cars under warranty, which is cool, but that basicaly means the longer you've been there and the more you've put into training yourself the more you get the shaft. There's nothing quite like working all day to put a turbo in a truck under warranty that pays less that three hours, while the kid next to you racks up a dozen hours doing service work on a used car. Luckily our newest SM see's the value in sending the kids to school to get them trained, at least on paper. Fun!