Residing on the bench,
I've got my solder-pen — on,
I've got my parts — trusty.
I've got my blem-box
On my work-station.
It's already... D-d-d-d-d-drilled
Of course.
I wanna have a Cowgirl
If you could hear my Cowgirl
I wanna have a Cowgirl
If you could hear my Cowgirl
I wanna have a Cowgirl...
BUILD REPORT
Home on de ranged.
Based on John Hollis’ EasyVibe circuit, The Cowgirl's circuit is Madbean’s Wigl. EasyVibe has four stages to it, like the original Uni-vibe. MadBean cut it in half, 2 stages, and it still sounds good. The enclosure was a blem I found on TaoBao (China's Amazon), for the price I couldn’t resist. When I got the box, it'd already been drilled and had the graphics printed on it. I guess it was the control unit for a ... machine... of some sort, with a cable attachment hole at the wrong end for a pedal. I’ll fill that up with some black rubber cement or something similar.
The main two controls of the Cowgirl-enclosure matched the Wigl-board’s pot spacing
perfectly, and even the control names lent themselves to an EasyVibe-ish nature... The Monster LED was a drop-in fit in another of the pre-drilled control-holes; originally I was going to use that hole to place the stomper, but the hole was a smidge too big and trying to lock down the 3PDT, well it just rotated in place. So I had the brilliant idea to try the large LED, which fit like a lambskin love-glove. Then I reamed out the original stock LED-hole for the footswitch.
While most of the holes were ready for insertion of parts, some key holes still needed to be drilled and I had to decide ...
Side-Saddle or Top-Mount?
Sidejacks would fit, maybe, might not as that LED is HOOJ! OR see if I can squeeze in top jacks. Gee, waste space and time with having the Cowgirl riding side-saddle, which might interfere with the LED, or waste lots of time (but no space) measuring thrice, thrice times, and risk ruining an enclosure… Can always order another blem enclosure, it was super cheap.
Even though the Wigl’n Cowgirl is in a larger enclosure compared to my last build, the 1590A Siberian Hamster, I still had to measure just as extensively before attempting to do anything.
Unlike the Siberian Hamster, I didn't do a lot of mods. Pretty much stock build, just a few sockets to try some non-stock signal-path bassification kajiggering. Mm-hmm.
Oh, and I made that MoNsTeR indicator-LED work double duty as the rate-LED as well.
I had to heavily clearance the lid's lip to clear the jacks. That was the most substantial mod to the enclosure.
I didn’t have the correct LDRs, so I socketed those and for good measure the LFO’s LED, so I can try other colours. The circuit calls for LDRs that have a 20M dark resistance, what I have is 0.5M dark. Thing might not even fire off, so I ordered some other LDRs, but still haven’t got the correct ones on order yet. I’ll Mix&Match some LEDs with whatever LDRs are coming: in there now is Red (650nm), but I will try Yellow (570nm), Pink (?nm), and Green (510nm), too.
There're two LEDs that are used for voltage biasing that could mess up the photocells’ reading of the LFO's LED, so my wife painted them with nail-polish. Great for taming bright bypass LEDs, the translucent polish trick, but for this application it needed to be opaque and wasn’t. So I added some felt marker and that still wasn’t enough to prevent light leakage — looked like cold lava with hot cracks. So for good measure, I mounted the little lava-lamps on the pots-side of the board — otherwise they’re right next to what they shouldn’t be next to. Mounting the bias-LEDs underside also helped with critical space saving for the TOP JACKS! FTSJ-paradigm!
Another "mod" was using a W-taper trim pot for the LFO, I figured the W taper would help dial in the LFO’s sweet-spot. It’s a Bourns multi-turn (12), compared to a regular single-turn trimmer (240º), I should be able to get bang on the money.
The last mod was replacing the 1uF electrolytic output cap, but even though I’ve got 1uF film caps, I stuck in a 2u2 film cap — just can’t seem to build anything stock.
So, hardly any mods at all. Really.
I couldn’t wait any longer for the correct LDRs to arrive. So last night I finished up the final wiring (in/out as far away from the board and LFO as possible). I stuck the LDRs I had in it, Tayda’s KE10720, and fired it up. Testing it, even with the wrong photocells, it worked well — it even worked with the lights on with guts fully exposed. Given the meagre LDRs though, the Cowgirl isn’t quite galloping at full-tilt-boogie. I didn’t even mess with the LFO trimmer! Since I finished it so late in the evening, I was unable to have a prolonged tinker-test, just a quick yep it works, knobs work, & shut down before the neighbours complain.
Originally I was looking at building the Magnatone, a similar-sounding circuit, on perf — but the Wigl fell into place and it all came together quickly (except for the LDR-waiting game). Will still build a Magna in future.
Next up, a lovely little squeeze into another 1590B, a completely stock build that I'll later mod, see if I can tell the difference...