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Any DIY pedal builders on TB? Strut your stuff!

My version of the Traynor TS-60B preamplifier:
ts60.jpg

I used the factory schematics to create my own pcb.
 
@disssa
Would you be willing to do a small run of your Traynor boards?
There are interested folks in the thread — two of us have expressed interest outright, but there may be more who just haven't spoken up. I'm interested in both the Monoblock & the TS-60B, @mdalamond is for sure interested in the Monoblock.


@Passinwind Thank you. I feel like a stuck record, forever and always heaping thanks upon you — but you keep crankin' out the coolio for your brothers & sisters here on the board.


I was browsing Tayda for the first time... Anyone use these? Thoughts?
View attachment 4189396

My thorts: Haven't used them, but depending on your needs/preferences you might be better off just getting the 3PDTs with the LED ring already built-in. 'Course, if you have a bunch of 3PDTs already squirreled away or prefer a particular type/quality of switch, then these rings would be great.

Another pedal finished over the weekend; Earthquaker Terminal Fuzz built on stripboard into a 125B.
This fuzz reacts differently to active vs. passive basses. At first, I wasn't liking the tones I was getting using a passive P-Bass. It sounded strained like it was struggling to push out any signal. So I swapped the stock 2N2222A transistors (~180 hfe) for 2N4401's around 240 hfe. It got fuzzier and sounded less strained, but still had a choked pseudo-gated thing going on.
Plugged my modded Schecter into it next to test how it reacts flipping between active and passive mode. The Terminal really came to life with the active preamp switched on. It no longer sounded choked and now roars and screams like many classic fuzzes.
I wasn't sure it was working correctly until I searched for more demo videos with bass and found videos with sounds that matched my experiences with both active and passive basses.
Painted in an artic color scheme of silver, cobalt and white. Inspired by four back-to-back ice storms in February. Kid painted the cobalt layer.
View attachment 4189524

View attachment 4189525

Love the Paint Jobs — fave so far was the recent purple one, but this one is "cool". Reminds me of walking across a frozen lake and looking down through the ice, awesome arctic vibe.




So has anyone here been successful at combining 2 circuit in parallel in 1 box? I don’t want a blend control,I just want to stack let’s say 2 muffs in one box. There would be 6 pots. 2 volume, 2 tone and 2 sustain. There is more to it than just building 2 circuits and wiring them to the jacks in parallel. Has anyone done this on a diy level.

JMK pedals has the Paralyzer, which will accomplish your goal. It's chip-based.
GuitarPCB has a BuffnBlend, a transistor-based circuit which I think is basically the ROG SplitnBlend Bisson mentioned. Meant to blend clean and whatever you throw in the loop, but you could easily mod it to be two different FX circuits. Choose PCB from GPCB or vero or perf:
Vero
Guitar FX Layouts: Split 'n' Blend.
Guitar FX Layouts: Mini JFET Blend
Perf
Perf and PCB Effects Layouts: Simple FET Blender
Perf and PCB Effects Layouts: Split 'n Blend


More complicated:
Guitar FX Layouts: JFET Parallel Looper
Guitar FX Layouts: Guitar and Bass Paralooper
I believe GPCB has the Paralooper as "ParaMixer", IIRC.

Separate splitter & mixer boards:
Guitar FX Layouts: AMZ 2 channel Splitter
Guitar FX Layouts: 2 Channel Mixer


I think the JFET Parallel Looper would be the ticket: 2 effects and your dry signal.





OFF-TOPIC
I've heard good things about the HF press in general, but as with many things related to HF you kind of have to expect to do some work on it for it to work well. I'm not sure I'd flip the switch on any HF machinery until I was convinced it wasn't going to spin itself apart because none of the bolts were tight or anything like that :roflmao:

It's even more impressive that you could size me up from it considering the sloping top tube! Sloping TTs funk up all of the geometry, but I expect that the long stem and seat post are good giveaways. I can't remember the crank length, but I should considering that I built this thing up myself - I used to be one of those bike shop hanger-oners: Good buddies with their number on mech who taught me how to fix just about anything on a bike. Those were the good ol days: shop BBQ's after hours filled with beer and good times after days of riding and talking about and working on bikes.

I'd love to see a photo of your Camerotti if you get the chance - there's nothing quite like old Italian steel


joe

Sloping Top Tubes infiltrated Road Bikes about the same time I got interested in them (both RB & TT). I was into cyclocross as a kid, basically 'cause that's how I rode my bikes, non-competitively, and then MTBs came and that led to All Things Bike. Paul Brodie was one of the first if not the first to offer a sloping TT on MTBs, I worked at Brodie for a spell before he sold the company and the new owner(s) made it another "designed in *insert-country*, made-in-Taiwan" brand.

I'm impressed you built your bike up yourself and do your own work, but not surprised given the Gunnar — you are a connoisseur, sir. I got a job in a bike shop just so I could learn how to fix my bikes myself. Wound up staying in the industry much longer than expected, then got sucked into working in a bike shop in HK for spell, too. Bike-shop BBQs, ahh those were the days.

Guiseppi Cramerotti is an Italian-Canadian who started the brand up after coming over from Italy. Got a bike shop, La Bicicletta, and the bikes (Cramerotti) going in Vancouver, moved everything to Toronto for a while, then moved operations back to Vancouver (but kept the shop going in TO) — if I recall correctly. La Bicicletta is still going in TO as far as I know. History of it all is online somewhere.

Had Brodie not foundered, I might be building my own bikes — just like how buying/owning pedals led to my building them.
 
@disssa
Would you be willing to do a small run of your Traynor boards?
There are interested folks in the thread — two of us have expressed interest outright, but there may be more who just haven't spoken up. I'm interested in both the Monoblock & the TS-60B, @mdalamond is for sure interested in the Monoblock.


@Passinwind Thank you. I feel like a stuck record, forever and always heaping thanks upon you — but you keep crankin' out the coolio for your brothers & sisters here on the board.


I was browsing Tayda for the first time... Anyone use these? Thoughts?
View attachment 4189396

My thorts: Haven't used them, but depending on your needs/preferences you might be better off just getting the 3PDTs with the LED ring already built-in. 'Course, if you have a bunch of 3PDTs already squirreled away or prefer a particular type/quality of switch, then these rings would be great.

Another pedal finished over the weekend; Earthquaker Terminal Fuzz built on stripboard into a 125B.
This fuzz reacts differently to active vs. passive basses. At first, I wasn't liking the tones I was getting using a passive P-Bass. It sounded strained like it was struggling to push out any signal. So I swapped the stock 2N2222A transistors (~180 hfe) for 2N4401's around 240 hfe. It got fuzzier and sounded less strained, but still had a choked pseudo-gated thing going on.
Plugged my modded Schecter into it next to test how it reacts flipping between active and passive mode. The Terminal really came to life with the active preamp switched on. It no longer sounded choked and now roars and screams like many classic fuzzes.
I wasn't sure it was working correctly until I searched for more demo videos with bass and found videos with sounds that matched my experiences with both active and passive basses.
Painted in an artic color scheme of silver, cobalt and white. Inspired by four back-to-back ice storms in February. Kid painted the cobalt layer.
View attachment 4189524

View attachment 4189525

Love the Paint Jobs — fave so far was the recent purple one, but this one is "cool". Reminds me of walking across a frozen lake and looking down through the ice, awesome arctic vibe.




So has anyone here been successful at combining 2 circuit in parallel in 1 box? I don’t want a blend control,I just want to stack let’s say 2 muffs in one box. There would be 6 pots. 2 volume, 2 tone and 2 sustain. There is more to it than just building 2 circuits and wiring them to the jacks in parallel. Has anyone done this on a diy level.

JMK pedals has the Paralyzer, which will accomplish your goal. It's chip-based.
GuitarPCB has a BuffnBlend, a transistor-based circuit which I think is basically the ROG SplitnBlend Bisson mentioned. Meant to blend clean and whatever you throw in the loop, but you could easily mod it to be two different FX circuits. Choose PCB from GPCB or vero or perf:
Vero
Guitar FX Layouts: Split 'n' Blend.
Guitar FX Layouts: Mini JFET Blend
Perf
Perf and PCB Effects Layouts: Simple FET Blender
Perf and PCB Effects Layouts: Split 'n Blend


More complicated:
Guitar FX Layouts: JFET Parallel Looper
Guitar FX Layouts: Guitar and Bass Paralooper
I believe GPCB has the Paralooper as "ParaMixer", IIRC.

Separate splitter & mixer boards:
Guitar FX Layouts: AMZ 2 channel Splitter
Guitar FX Layouts: 2 Channel Mixer


I think the JFET Parallel Looper would be the ticket: 2 effects and your dry signal.





OFF-TOPIC
I've heard good things about the HF press in general, but as with many things related to HF you kind of have to expect to do some work on it for it to work well. I'm not sure I'd flip the switch on any HF machinery until I was convinced it wasn't going to spin itself apart because none of the bolts were tight or anything like that :roflmao:

It's even more impressive that you could size me up from it considering the sloping top tube! Sloping TTs funk up all of the geometry, but I expect that the long stem and seat post are good giveaways. I can't remember the crank length, but I should considering that I built this thing up myself - I used to be one of those bike shop hanger-oners: Good buddies with their number on mech who taught me how to fix just about anything on a bike. Those were the good ol days: shop BBQ's after hours filled with beer and good times after days of riding and talking about and working on bikes.

I'd love to see a photo of your Camerotti if you get the chance - there's nothing quite like old Italian steel


joe

Sloping Top Tubes infiltrated Road Bikes about the same time I got interested in them (both RB & TT). I was into cyclocross as a kid, basically 'cause that's how I rode my bikes, non-competitively, and then MTBs came and that led to All Things Bike. Paul Brodie was one of the first if not the first to offer a sloping TT on MTBs, I worked at Brodie for a spell before he sold the company and the new owner(s) made it another "designed in *insert-country*, made-in-Taiwan" brand.

I'm impressed you built your bike up yourself and do your own work, but not surprised given the Gunnar — you are a connoisseur, sir. I got a job in a bike shop just so I could learn how to fix my bikes myself. Wound up staying in the industry much longer than expected, then got sucked into working in a bike shop in HK for spell, too. Bike-shop BBQs, ahh those were the days.

Guiseppi Cramerotti is an Italian-Canadian who started the brand up after coming over from Italy. Got a bike shop, La Bicicletta, and the bikes (Cramerotti) going in Vancouver, moved everything to Toronto for a while, then moved operations back to Vancouver (but kept the shop going in TO) — if I recall correctly. La Bicicletta is still going in TO as far as I know. History of it all is online somewhere.

Had Brodie not foundered, I might be building my own bikes — just like how buying/owning pedals led to my building them.
 
@disssa
Would you be willing to do a small run of your Traynor boards?
There are interested folks in the thread — two of us have expressed interest outright, but there may be more who just haven't spoken up. I'm interested in both the Monoblock & the TS-60B, @mdalamond is for sure interested in the Monoblock.
Maybe I think about it. But these are not beginner projects. Many components are soldered in a small space:
ts60_open.jpg

The use of sliders makes drilling the housing very difficult. Maybe I could use Rotary Pots instead.
 
@Passinwind Thank you. I feel like a stuck record, forever and always heaping thanks upon you — but you keep crankin' out the coolio for your brothers & sisters here on the board.

Thank you my friend, but I feel like I'm way behind on getting more of my open source projects in place. The good side is that I've been getting a little more paying work lately, which I can't talk about here, but it does help me improve my craft in a pretty big way.
 
Maybe I think about it. But these are not beginner projects. Many components are soldered in a small space:
View attachment 4194065
The use of sliders makes drilling the housing very difficult. Maybe I could use Rotary Pots instead.

At least over here, CNC work is coming more and more into reach for DIY'ers. But personally, I've always preferred rotary pots anyway.
 
I hope I can jump in here and ask for some advice. I was just digging through some old gear and found this little board that I bought and forgot about before ever finishing. It took some time to figure out what it even was, but I believe it’s this one from tonepad: tonepad -- file information

It can be used to build an MXR Micro amp or a Distortion +. I’m leaning more towards a distortion/overdrive, but I’m curious if anyone has tips on things I could do to make it work well as a low gain drive for bass. Thanks in advance for advice anyone can share.
2052EFA2-4E73-4168-B9EE-B6BC704EDC8B.jpeg
3B3D169B-D784-4A6C-AD2B-891A58246B74.jpeg
 
I hope I can jump in here and ask for some advice. I was just digging through some old gear and found this little board that I bought and forgot about before ever finishing. It took some time to figure out what it even was, but I believe it’s this one from tonepad: tonepad -- file information

It can be used to build an MXR Micro amp or a Distortion +. I’m leaning more towards a distortion/overdrive, but I’m curious if anyone has tips on things I could do to make it work well as a low gain drive for bass. Thanks in advance for advice anyone can share.
View attachment 4194734 View attachment 4194733
Distortion+ can also be built to DOD 250 specs for milder overdrive. I built one recently with increased input cap of 0.1uF and output cap of 10uF.
 
Built a Bazz Fuss & Buzz Box combo pedal this weekend. I was looking for a fuzz that would fit into a 1590A and saw the Bazz Fuss could be made more interesting with a toggle switch, similar to Devi's modular designs. Was a tight fit with the toggle switch, even with a tiny 9x5 stripboard.
Bazz Fuss sounds surprisingly good, like a simple fuzz face. Buzz Box sounds similar with some chaotic wreckage distortions added. Tested with 2N5088's and 1N914's. Haven't tried any other transistors or diodes yet. Painted red & yellow on black primer.
20210306_125600.jpg


20210305_212927.jpg
 
Built a Bazz Fuss & Buzz Box combo pedal this weekend. I was looking for a fuzz that would fit into a 1590A and saw the Bazz Fuss could be made more interesting with a toggle switch, similar to Devi's modular designs. Was a tight fit with the toggle switch, even with a tiny 9x5 stripboard.
Bazz Fuss sounds surprisingly good, like a simple fuzz face. Buzz Box sounds similar with some chaotic wreckage distortions added. Tested with 2N5088's and 1N914's. Haven't tried any other transistors or diodes yet. Painted red & yellow on black primer.
View attachment 4194808

View attachment 4194809

Well done, great use of space! I panic if I don't have an extra meter of space around every component during the layout process.


joe
 
Well done, great use of space! I panic if I don't have an extra meter of space around every component during the layout process.


joe
I keep pushing my luck with tight fits. Last few solder points take lots of time figuring out an angle of attack that won't accidently melt something else. I've taken my game of Operation skills to new a new level.
 
Since I keep adding to my long list of stuff to order, I went ahead and installed the resistors and sockets that I have into my Ocelot Octave
20210307_210546.jpg


And the Depot Fuzz
20210307_210623.jpg

I still need to figure out the enclosure.

Speaking of enclosures, I buffed up and drilled out the 1590BB for my Reverb project. Controls are Volume and Blend at the top, 16-position rotary in the center, and the switch at the bottom. I have to test out the board I made for the volume and blend this week, and figure out where the in/out jacks will fit. The top of the enclosure is 'polished' a bit, but still has some marks. I think it looks kinda cool. I can always paint it if I change my mind.
20210307_210434.jpg

I also have to figure out how crazy I want to go with the LEDs. I have an idea, but I'm not sure it will work.
 
Anyone here have any high voltage tube pre-amp schematics or links to kits for DIY? Not starved, low voltage designs but the real HV tubes?
Thx!

Maybe the Frog fits the bill, Alembic F2b style, going to 185+ V.

https://frogpedals.com/index.php/product/frog-f1a-tube-preamp-pcb-for-diy/

https://frogpedals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/FrogTubeAmpDocs-2.05.pdf

I have finished some more too.

First up is something that waited for a while until a got one of the deeper BB enclosures. Another Deadend PCB, doing the LAL Misty Cave thing.
It's an "analog resonant echo" according to the blurb, but does somehow sounds that linger between echo/delay and reverb with a hint of rotary. Very cool stuff.
There's a trimpot to set resonance, which I put on the edge of self oscillation.

Tight fit, at least for me, I'm not on G.Bisson's impressive "squeeze-level". :)
I wanted top jacks, so I actually turned it, EXP is still on the side though .....

MC.jpeg MC-g.jpeg

And the PedalPCB Propolis (TMR Bumble Buzz), an octave fuzz without any knobs. Sounds pretty cool on bass.
No controls --> no graphics. Just a fancy pilot light with a trimmer.

BB.jpeg BBg.jpeg
 
Maybe the Frog fits the bill, Alembic F2b style, going to 185+ V.

https://frogpedals.com/index.php/product/frog-f1a-tube-preamp-pcb-for-diy/

https://frogpedals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/FrogTubeAmpDocs-2.05.pdf

View attachment 4195166 View attachment 4195167

And the PedalPCB Propolis (TMR Bumble Buzz), an octave fuzz without any knobs. Sounds pretty cool on bass.
No controls --> no graphics. Just a fancy pilot light with a trimmer.

View attachment 4195168 View attachment 4195169

Sweet! That's exactly what I am looking for. Thanks for the links and info. I'll look into that PCB design and it might be a project I'll build during COVID!

Keep on Rockin' in the free world!
 
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@SubHuman — Have you got a friend who reads/writes Chinese (or yourself)? I picked up a PCB for a channel of a "Rectivator" recently from a Mainland outfit.

Grind Custom had a cool one, but Grind lost all its info due to a website crash or something. So I never got to order it. I'm hoping someday Grind will rise Phoenix-like again, they had some cool projects.

The Frog is my favourite, but there are other Tubey projects out there. Not all pre-amps either.

Real McTube
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Invalid Link Removed
Real McTube II PCB available at Tonepad.com (SmallBear has the Tonepad PCBs too)

Gianinni AceTone Vavlulado 1970::


Tube Pedal Project Box (2-TUBES!)
Tube Pedal project
Tube Pedal project 3


I can't remember out of my list of Tube Pedal Projects which ones have heart-stopping voltages... Maybe Bass Amuser was one?

Pretty sure Tube Town has some... not sure if this is one of 'em but explore the website. Haven't been there in ages myself.
TUBE-TOWN PCBs Tube-Town GmbH – LoV-Projekte

TUBE PEDALS FSB:
Invalid Link Removed


Link Removed
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Tube Distortion Pedals - monster.party.hat
DIY
ETI83 tube distortion. Odd little grounded-plate pedal design.
Dual-Tube “Stack-In-A-Box”

EF86 Preamp RENEGADRIAN

6418 Tube generic preamp running on 9v renegadrian General Purpose schem 
 “6418 Tube Preamp_001-2.pdf”
- Tube Star - 12AT7 HIGH GAIN distortion running at 48V in Renegadrian’s folder

Dexter's Workshop THE GTFO - Full Tube / High Voltage Guitar Distortion

BAJA REALTUBE
Invalid Link Removed






I hope I can jump in here and ask for some advice. I was just digging through some old gear and found this little board that I bought and forgot about before ever finishing. It took some time to figure out what it even was, but I believe it’s this one from tonepad: tonepad -- file information

It can be used to build an MXR Micro amp or a Distortion +. I’m leaning more towards a distortion/overdrive, but I’m curious if anyone has tips on things I could do to make it work well as a low gain drive for bass. Thanks in advance for advice anyone can share.
View attachment 4194734 View attachment 4194733

In addition to the Dist+/Micro-Amp/DOD250/Ross Black&Tan, the following are also bassed (;)) on the same circuit architecture and can be tweaked for your intended purpose. Check out these:

QUANTUM MYSTIC — BAT, schematic's floating around the web.

JANUS OD/DIST — can't remember where I found this one, DIYSB or FSB maybe, but it's from BFFX

ADAMU — GGG

DRIVESTORTION — effects layouts

BLUE CLIPPER — Dan Armstrong

RED LIGHTS DISTORTION — HG Amps

Boosta Grande — BBE

DIST+ WAMPLER MODS — Wampler
 
Last edited:
Is anyone here good at making a stripboard layout from a pcb drawing? I have the schematic and pcb layout for the MXR El Grande Bass Fuzz. I would really like to build it and could take a shot at the layout but it would take me a year. If I had the PCB layout in Eagle CAD I would probably just go ahead and have some pcbs made. I don’t have eagle cad nor do I even understand how to use it.
 
Is anyone here good at making a stripboard layout from a pcb drawing? I have the schematic and pcb layout for the MXR El Grande Bass Fuzz. I would really like to build it and could take a shot at the layout but it would take me a year. If I had the PCB layout in Eagle CAD I would probably just go ahead and have some pcbs made. I don’t have eagle cad nor do I even understand how to use it.

El Grande, Purrfect timing...

I mentioned in the fuzz thread recently that I'd drawn up a complete layout on perf:
Fuzz addict club! If you don't like it fuzz off!

I've not had time to build/verify it, so I haven't posted the layout(s) yet. As mentioned in the above linked post, you could build the El Grande with a standard Muff PCB and some perf or vero daughterboard to add in the EQ section. GuitarPCB's Muffn Boards are perfect for this type of daughterboard build, as they've already got the break-out/in points built into the board.

Boil it down, and it's Just Another Muff. Very JAMmy.
 
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