That's a awesome family pic! Looks like a quality pedal maker's product lineup.
I keep telling myself I'll take a family pic after I slow down. Ordered five more kits so I'm not slowing down yet!
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Any DIY pedal builders on TB? Strut your stuff!
- Thread starter SubHuman
- Start date
I keep telling myself I'll take a family pic after I slow down. Ordered five more kits so I'm not slowing down yet!
Killer Klean, Dissa!
If you ever decide to produce some of your PCBs for sale, mark me down for the MonoBlock!
The 800Rail needs the red rings around the stompers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JOE!
Goin' from hand-drilling to a drill press is like going from a pencil-iron to a solder-station. My little drill press was DOA (a gift, so I can't complain); my Amp-builder buddy was given the same mini-press as I was, his too was DOA, but he managed to fix his. So, make sure this Harbor-Freight thing isn't a giant paper-weight waiting to happen. I'd try to buy a used full-size.
Of course, my friend's got a full-size drill-press — I'm hoping I can use the big one tomorrow.
I tried to look at the HF press, but website says it's sold out and there was no pic. AHH refreshed the page and the pic came up. Definitely looks better than mine.
As for your Gunnar, I saw that headtube and sized you up with a quick look at the rest of the frame, saddle height, angles, crank-length... I had you pegged at 6'3"
, but added 6'4" to hedge my bet 
. Don't have a good pic of my Cramerotti, but it's 63cm and I have a long seatpost in it and long stem as well. The original cranks were 180s, IIRC, but very flexy (& light). Went to 175s for a better spin... almost as good as Merckx. 
If you ever decide to produce some of your PCBs for sale, mark me down for the MonoBlock!
The 800Rail needs the red rings around the stompers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JOE!
Goin' from hand-drilling to a drill press is like going from a pencil-iron to a solder-station. My little drill press was DOA (a gift, so I can't complain); my Amp-builder buddy was given the same mini-press as I was, his too was DOA, but he managed to fix his. So, make sure this Harbor-Freight thing isn't a giant paper-weight waiting to happen. I'd try to buy a used full-size.
Of course, my friend's got a full-size drill-press — I'm hoping I can use the big one tomorrow.
I tried to look at the HF press, but website says it's sold out and there was no pic. AHH refreshed the page and the pic came up. Definitely looks better than mine.
As for your Gunnar, I saw that headtube and sized you up with a quick look at the rest of the frame, saddle height, angles, crank-length... I had you pegged at 6'3"
, but added 6'4" to hedge my bet . Don't have a good pic of my Cramerotti, but it's 63cm and I have a long seatpost in it and long stem as well. The original cranks were 180s, IIRC, but very flexy (& light). Went to 175s for a better spin... almost as good as Merckx. 
Killer Klean, Dissa!
If you ever decide to produce some of your PCBs for sale, mark me down for the MonoBlock!
The 800Rail needs the red rings around the stompers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
JOE!
Goin' from hand-drilling to a drill press is like going from a pencil-iron to a solder-station. My little drill press was DOA (a gift, so I can't complain); my Amp-builder buddy was given the same mini-press as I was, his too was DOA, but he managed to fix his. So, make sure this Harbor-Freight thing isn't a giant paper-weight waiting to happen. I'd try to buy a used full-size.
Of course, my friend's got a full-size drill-press — I'm hoping I can use the big one tomorrow.
I tried to look at the HF press, but website says it's sold out and there was no pic. AHH refreshed the page and the pic came up. Definitely looks better than mine.
As for your Gunnar, I saw that headtube and sized you up with a quick look at the rest of the frame, saddle height, angles, crank-length... I had you pegged at 6'3"
I've heard good things about the HF press in general, but as with many things related to HF you kind of have to expect to do some work on it for it to work well. I'm not sure I'd flip the switch on any HF machinery until I was convinced it wasn't going to spin itself apart because none of the bolts were tight or anything like that
It's even more impressive that you could size me up from it considering the sloping top tube! Sloping TTs funk up all of the geometry, but I expect that the long stem and seat post are good giveaways. I can't remember the crank length, but I should considering that I built this thing up myself - I used to be one of those bike shop hanger-oners: Good buddies with their number on mech who taught me how to fix just about anything on a bike. Those were the good ol days: shop BBQ's after hours filled with beer and good times after days of riding and talking about and working on bikes.
I'd love to see a photo of your Camerotti if you get the chance - there's nothing quite like old Italian steel
joe
Another pedal finished over the weekend; Earthquaker Terminal Fuzz built on stripboard into a 125B.
This fuzz reacts differently to active vs. passive basses. At first, I wasn't liking the tones I was getting using a passive P-Bass. It sounded strained like it was struggling to push out any signal. So I swapped the stock 2N2222A transistors (~180 hfe) for 2N4401's around 240 hfe. It got fuzzier and sounded less strained, but still had a choked pseudo-gated thing going on.
Plugged my modded Schecter into it next to test how it reacts flipping between active and passive mode. The Terminal really came to life with the active preamp switched on. It no longer sounded choked and now roars and screams like many classic fuzzes.
I wasn't sure it was working correctly until I searched for more demo videos with bass and found videos with sounds that matched my experiences with both active and passive basses.
Painted in an artic color scheme of silver, cobalt and white. Inspired by four back-to-back ice storms in February. Kid painted the cobalt layer.
This fuzz reacts differently to active vs. passive basses. At first, I wasn't liking the tones I was getting using a passive P-Bass. It sounded strained like it was struggling to push out any signal. So I swapped the stock 2N2222A transistors (~180 hfe) for 2N4401's around 240 hfe. It got fuzzier and sounded less strained, but still had a choked pseudo-gated thing going on.
Plugged my modded Schecter into it next to test how it reacts flipping between active and passive mode. The Terminal really came to life with the active preamp switched on. It no longer sounded choked and now roars and screams like many classic fuzzes.
I wasn't sure it was working correctly until I searched for more demo videos with bass and found videos with sounds that matched my experiences with both active and passive basses.
Painted in an artic color scheme of silver, cobalt and white. Inspired by four back-to-back ice storms in February. Kid painted the cobalt layer.
So has anyone here been successful at combining 2 circuit in parallel in 1 box? I don’t want a blend control,I just want to stack let’s say 2 muffs in one box. There would be 6 pots. 2 volume, 2 tone and 2 sustain. There is more to it than just building 2 circuits and wiring them to the jacks in parallel. Has anyone done this on a diy level.
PedalPCB make a 3PDT breakout board which does this and also allows you to switch the order of which comes first. If you're not switching the order then it looks like there's nothing more to it than just wiring everything together.
Here's the board if you're interested: 3PDT Order Switch - PedalPCB.com
joe
I did it with Tea Philter and SHO. I just put one into the other, fairly straightforward. I believe what I did is series, though, not parallel.
So I have been a busy little monkey the last few days. I took a lot of pics along the way. Had a little issue with the pin assignment on the trannys but once I got that worked out this thing is a Beast. I have to order a 159xx, I can’t happily squeez it in a 1590bb. I present to you the B:ASSMASTER.
I have progress pics if anyone is interested. I will update once it’s boxed. I compared it to an YouTube video and to me it sounds like the Malekko if not maybe a little better.
I have progress pics if anyone is interested. I will update once it’s boxed. I compared it to an YouTube video and to me it sounds like the Malekko if not maybe a little better.
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,079
- 46,041
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
I'll be posting an open source simple two channel mixer board share on OSHpark pretty soon, along with a very basic opamp gain stage/buffer one. My application is wet/dry blending for time based DSP effects, but even if you don't want to implement a variable blend function it would probably work fine for your needs. As with most of what I'm doing these days, it'll use mostly SMD parts though:
This looks perfect and with some event better. I’m not familiar with OSHpark but I’m looking into it now. Please keep me in mind when you are ready. I’ll be placing an order for at least 10. Thank you.
@Passinwind , I won’t tell my wife about you telling me about OSHpark so you can stay in her good graces, lol. I have figured it out nd have already filled a cart with a couple of your shares on there. Before I checkout I wanted to ask you if there’s anything else on there that you found interesting and worth looking into. It doesn’t necessarily need to be an effect pedal or even music related. There is so much available on there that it’s a bit overwhelming.
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,079
- 46,041
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Note that those prices are for three boards and include shipping, including overseas.
It's a candy store for Arduino based projects and the like, but I haven't plumbed that rabbit hole just yet. Also, if you need little breakout boards for pots and switches, USB ports, SMD opamp adapters, and so on, lots of people share that stuff. I'm planning on posting some of those myself actually. Oh, and if you want to build the MM 2 band clone, that's just the Uncle Fluffy clone one that I posted with his permission. I have a different version using more modern parts, and a bunch of other onboard preamp stuff in the works. My backlog of designs I haven't physically built yet is pretty big at the moment, and then doing up a bill of materials for each one can be a substantial time suck. But to me it's worth it!
