Any road bikers?

[carl h.]

Take some pics and post them, or bring an experienced bike mech along to verify its components and road-worthiness.

Personally I'd go for something more boring looking and easier to replace for a commuter. Odds are it will either break down or get stolen so be prepared to walk with your gear selection. Biking shoes that are decent for walking as well are very hard to come by, there will be compromises, but the good news is 7 miles is a pretty short ride.


Tomorrow AM I go in for an MRI on my left knee. I'm heading out on a short ride now, and have no idea if I will be told to stop riding when they view the results. I'm hitting up some new back roads I haven't even driven yet just to distract myself.

 

[macaroni tony]

Take some pics and post them, or bring an experienced bike mech along to verify its components and road-worthiness.

Personally I'd go for something more boring looking and easier to replace for a commuter. Odds are it will either break down or get stolen so be prepared to walk with your gear selection. Biking shoes that are decent for walking as well are very hard to come by, there will be compromises, but the good news is 7 miles is a pretty short ride.


Tomorrow AM I go in for an MRI on my left knee. I'm heading out on a short ride now, and have no idea if I will be told to stop riding when they view the results. I'm hitting up some new back roads I haven't even driven yet just to distract myself.

Ouch! hope it goes well for you...

Thanks for the input

 

[macaroni tony]

Take some pics and post them, or bring an experienced bike mech along to verify its components and road-worthiness.

Personally I'd go for something more boring looking and easier to replace for a commuter. Odds are it will either break down or get stolen so be prepared to walk with your gear selection. Biking shoes that are decent for walking as well are very hard to come by, there will be compromises, but the good news is 7 miles is a pretty short ride.

Rereading your post I've got a couple of questions. More boring looking - is this so it doesn't attract the attention of thieves? And what do you mean by easier to replace - easier to find replacement parts or easier to find the same bike?

 

[carl h.]

If the bike's geometry fits you perfectly, it is easier to replace it if you can easily find another one. Some older bikes use parts of a dimension only used on that bike. I have an old Trek mountain bike which has some stuff which is almost impossible to replace individual components for less than the cost of the complete bike. I have no plans of doubling the value of the bike by replacing the seat post!

Plus, a flashy bike that draws your eye will most likely attract the eyes of thieves as well. If you can't park it indoors in a locked space, quick release parts may walk off as well.

For a shorter commute you may want to consider something with a bit fatter tire to it to absorb road bumps.

Just rambling here. Hopefully some of this stuff is useful to you.

 

[devo_stevo]

I like the Peugeot. That's a nice looking ride. If it's in good working order, that would be a fun bike. carl h. brings up a good point though about trying to replace parts on some old bikes. The philosophy of planned obsolescence is alive and well in the bicycle industry, so new parts don't always fit on old bikes.

I like the suggestion of looking for something with fatter tires for commuting. I ride to work and I really like to ride my cyclocross bike. It still rolls nice and fast, but it's a much smoother ride. Plus, you can go 'cross racing with it. That's easily the best reason to have a bike anyway.

 

[macaroni tony]

If the bike's geometry fits you perfectly, it is easier to replace it if you can easily find another one. Some older bikes use parts of a dimension only used on that bike. I have an old Trek mountain bike which has some stuff which is almost impossible to replace individual components for less than the cost of the complete bike. I have no plans of doubling the value of the bike by replacing the seat post!

Plus, a flashy bike that draws your eye will most likely attract the eyes of thieves as well. If you can't park it indoors in a locked space, quick release parts may walk off as well.

For a shorter commute you may want to consider something with a bit fatter tire to it to absorb road bumps.

Just rambling here. Hopefully some of this stuff is useful to you.

It is, thanks!

 

[carl h.]

Might be worth buying it just because you want it. That's a plenty good reason if you can afford it.

I picked up one of the last Chicago made Schwinn road bikes just because it was a nice color, good size, and one of the last of an era. Not particularly valuable and I never ride it, but I still like having it around.

 

[macaroni tony]

Might be worth buying it just because you want it. That's a plenty good reason if you can afford it.

I picked up one of the last Chicago made Schwinn road bikes just because it was a nice color, good size, and one of the last of an era. Not particularly valuable and I never ride it, but I still like having it around.

I'm gonna check it out today and see how I feel riding it. I figure at $250 if it feels really nice for my short, wide *** and there are no red flags, it'll be worth it to me

 

[spade2you]

I'm gonna check it out today and see how I feel riding it. I figure at $250 if it feels really nice for my short, wide *** and there are no red flags, it'll be worth it to me

$250 is a bit pricy given the age of this bike. I could see a vintage person who might like it, but I'd like to think you could do better. As mentioned, bike companies are excessively upgrading parts. Could be challenging finding parts or fixing things.

 

[Bocete]

Introduction to bike maintenance?

I keep the tires under pressure, I lube the chain, and check fine-tune the derailleurs so that shifting is smooth. I cleaned and greased my pedals once, and I can replace bar tape. That's all I know how to do, however; and my old bike has collected a lot of grime in the chain and cassette/rear derailleur cogs over the years. My new bike I got clean, and I'd like to keep it that way.

What would you recommend I should buy to keep the machinery clean? How frequently should that be done? How do you thoroughly clean the chain (the inside of links etc)?

What about cables, should they be replaced periodically? I read that they should, but don't understand why; especially once they stretch out.

Thanks

 

[Stilettoprefer]

Introduction to bike maintenance?

I keep the tires under pressure, I lube the chain, and check fine-tune the derailleurs so that shifting is smooth. I cleaned and greased my pedals once, and I can replace bar tape. That's all I know how to do, however; and my old bike has collected a lot of grime in the chain and cassette/rear derailleur cogs over the years. My new bike I got clean, and I'd like to keep it that way.

What would you recommend I should buy to keep the machinery clean? How frequently should that be done? How do you thoroughly clean the chain (the inside of links etc)?

What about cables, should they be replaced periodically? I read that they should, but don't understand why; especially once they stretch out.

Thanks

Cables can frey and break, which sucks big time. They also get sticky and can get harder to pull over time. You don't notice how sticky the cables got, until you replace it.

As for cleaning: shoe strings work well for "flossing" between the gears on the rear hub.

 

[spade2you]

I generally replace the cables of my main bike once a year. They generally start to suck at shifting before they break. I've only broken one cable. Fortunately it was on an indoor ride and at the end, although I was on fire that day and could have used the higher gears.

I typically just have my shop do my maintenance. I barely have enough time to ride these days.

 

[smperry]

My recent purchase is a 2010 Bianchi Imola. Getting used to riding with clips again. Selling my vintage road bikes soon.

 

[lowendfriend]

I have a 1998 BikeE recumbent that I bought new in 1998 and it sat down my basement in my house on cape cod. Got it cleaned up and hit the bike trails and backstreets to the tune of 2100 miles this year.....first time in my life I've exercised regularly.....well since 30 anyway and I'm 63.
I use mapmyride and generally like it's functionality. It actually works on my HTC one m8.
I also got a Biria Easy something 3speed. The BikeE is 3x7 using an internal hub for the 3.

 

[machine gewehr]

Introduction to bike maintenance?

I keep the tires under pressure, I lube the chain, and check fine-tune the derailleurs so that shifting is smooth. I cleaned and greased my pedals once, and I can replace bar tape. That's all I know how to do, however; and my old bike has collected a lot of grime in the chain and cassette/rear derailleur cogs over the years. My new bike I got clean, and I'd like to keep it that way.

What would you recommend I should buy to keep the machinery clean? How frequently should that be done? How do you thoroughly clean the chain (the inside of links etc)?

What about cables, should they be replaced periodically? I read that they should, but don't understand why; especially once they stretch out.

Thanks

I ordered these a week ago after hearing some noise due to dirt on the bike.

Invalid Link Removed

I don't think these are necessary though. Here's a good video of OPQS tech cleaning a bike. That would be overkill for me though.




I take the bike to the shop every 6 months for periodical meintenance. They change the cables and all. I had a cable malfunction when I was a kid and I took a nasty fall. Wouldn't want that to happen again.

 

[lowendfriend]

Are you in a low enough gear? If your cadence is too low it can put a lot more stress on the knees. Work on being able to "spin" a little more than you are.

Be sure your seat height( or on a recumbent your seat distance behind the pedals ) is adjusted to have your legs almost straight at the max downstroke. Riding with under-extended legs is another great way to kill your knees.

 

[Bocete]

Just did a 65 mile ride the other day. My feet were fine (all issues stopped after i moved the cleats a bit backwards), my bum as well although i could feel it the next day, and my hands were going numb periodically. Two days later, my left hand's pinky and ring finger are still a bit tingly. Ulnar nerve. I'm going to try gloves with more padding, and I'm definitely going to pad the drops next time I change the tape. I cannot raise the bar any more without changing the stem. I changed positions frequently and don't rest on my hands nearly as much as before, but it was a long ride. But overall, it felt great.

Also, last weekend, I did 30 miles in just under 2 hours. I was surprised as two months back that same route was an adventure lasting almost 3 hours, taking mental preparation etc. This time I just sat on the bike to do a lap, and the next thing I noticed, I was back at home.

 

[machine gewehr]

Just did a 65 mile ride the other day. My feet were fine (all issues stopped after i moved the cleats a bit backwards), my bum as well although i could feel it the next day, and my hands were going numb periodically. Two days later, my left hand's pinky and ring finger are still a bit tingly. Ulnar nerve. I'm going to try gloves with more padding, and I'm definitely going to pad the drops next time I change the tape. I cannot raise the bar any more without changing the stem. I changed positions frequently and don't rest on my hands nearly as much as before, but it was a long ride. But overall, it felt great.

Also, last weekend, I did 30 miles in just under 2 hours. I was surprised as two months back that same route was an adventure lasting almost 3 hours, taking mental preparation etc. This time I just sat on the bike to do a lap, and the next thing I noticed, I was back at home.

You came a long way man. I envy your progress, good job!

I've just recently been able to do a 30 km ride without my knees giving up. I think I almost got the cleat position right on the left leg too. My right foot was working like a piston but I realised my left leg was drawing 8 s in the air. I screamed of pain a few times while I was test riding after doing adjustments.

I'm really determined to overcome this meniscus crap.

 

[Dead Set Dave]

I'm a professional bike mechanic. I raced mountain bikes for over 12 years, road for a few years, bmx and track a bit here and there. I did some coaching on the side too.

For riding pain there's a number of things to look at.
Fit is important, you need to have the right top tube length for starters. At 6 foot you'd want a roughly 56cm top tube, generally considered a medium/large frame size. Your stem would likely be a 110mm, which is standard for that frame size. If you're a bit fitter it could go longer. I'd have it set up in it's highest position, unless you have a longer headtube frame, much like found on a Trek Domane or Specialized Roubaix or Bianchi C2C frames e.g. comfort frames. If that's the case I'd start with it at the highest point but 'upside down' so it sits almost flat/level.

From here we have our arm set up pretty safe, for now. Next we get our seat height right. Let's assume that you've got that set up properly and talk about set back. The saddle set back should allow that when your feet are at '3 and 9' there is a straight line going behind your knee, down through the ball of your foot, through the centre of the cleats and to the centre of the pedal axle. This would be considered 'correct'.

Once this is set up correctly you can go back to the front of the bike, what you're looking for is the bars to be high enough that if if you take your hands off while riding you don't fall forwards, but also not really putting any pressure on your arms to hold you up. Your arms should always be bent when riding. Keep lowering the bars, via the stem, until you find a nice position.

Some people need different bars with different reach, some are wider, some are more 'compact' there's tonnes of options out there.

A lot of riders develop riding pain within the first year of cycling on the road because of the fast development of their quads and calves. This puts strain on certain muscles and tendons and can pull your knees, feet and other things out of shape. Make sure that you are spending a lot of time on stretching correctly before riding. Preferably after a light warm up.

Ummm I don't know if this is of any help but I've been in the game a long time and can offer all kinds of advice if needed

 

[machine gewehr]

I'm a professional bike mechanic. I raced mountain bikes for over 12 years, road for a few years, bmx and track a bit here and there. I did some coaching on the side too.

For riding pain there's a number of things to look at.
Fit is important, you need to have the right top tube length for starters. At 6 foot you'd want a roughly 56cm top tube, generally considered a medium/large frame size. Your stem would likely be a 110mm, which is standard for that frame size. If you're a bit fitter it could go longer. I'd have it set up in it's highest position, unless you have a longer headtube frame, much like found on a Trek Domane or Specialized Roubaix or Bianchi C2C frames e.g. comfort frames. If that's the case I'd start with it at the highest point but 'upside down' so it sits almost flat/level.

From here we have our arm set up pretty safe, for now. Next we get our seat height right. Let's assume that you've got that set up properly and talk about set back. The saddle set back should allow that when your feet are at '3 and 9' there is a straight line going behind your knee, down through the ball of your foot, through the centre of the cleats and to the centre of the pedal axle. This would be considered 'correct'.

Once this is set up correctly you can go back to the front of the bike, what you're looking for is the bars to be high enough that if if you take your hands off while riding you don't fall forwards, but also not really putting any pressure on your arms to hold you up. Your arms should always be bent when riding. Keep lowering the bars, via the stem, until you find a nice position.

Some people need different bars with different reach, some are wider, some are more 'compact' there's tonnes of options out there.

A lot of riders develop riding pain within the first year of cycling on the road because of the fast development of their quads and calves. This puts strain on certain muscles and tendons and can pull your knees, feet and other things out of shape. Make sure that you are spending a lot of time on stretching correctly before riding. Preferably after a light warm up.

Ummm I don't know if this is of any help but I've been in the game a long time and can offer all kinds of advice if needed

All good advices there, good to have you here Dave.

I finally adjusted the saddle setback correctly last week, it made so much difference I couldn't believe it. A few milimeters changed the whole experience. I'll see how my handle bar height is tonight thanks to your advice.