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Anybody use an FDeck HPF with electric?

#61
I was tempted by the Fdeck but wound up going with the OmniCabSim by DSM. The OCS is a different tool than the FDeck HPF -- it's designed to be a cab sim. I have to mention it because it worked perfectly with the Berg CN210 cabs I owned for awhile that were a bit too hi-fi for my taste: I used the OCS to tame the highs and lows (it has both HPF and LPF), and add just a smidge of mid punch.

If you're looking for nothing but HPF, then the Fdeck (or other) would be a better choice, but the OCS has some great features.
 
#62
BlushResponse said:
Purchased an FDeck HPF used on Reverb the other day.
My only question is this: Which part of the signal chain would be better? Effects loop? Beginning of the signal chain on the pedal board? End of the signal chain on the pedal board?
I only play electric. Usually into an Ashdown CTM300 or LB30.
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I would place it at the end because I would want everything in front of it to be driven by the full signal then filter out some lows at the end. YMMV
 
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#63
Any downside to using this with a passive electric?

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting this device in front of an amp like the Mesa D800+ that has its own double poled high pass filter that is adjustable? Thinking in putting one infront of effects and just after bass in front of effects pedals. Might still get one anyway for when I play with my other amp.
 
#64
pigpen1 said:
Any downside to using this with a passive electric?

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting this device in front of an amp like the Mesa D800+ that has its own double poled high pass filter that is adjustable? Thinking in putting one infront of effects and just after bass in front of effects pedals. Might still get one anyway for when I play with my other amp.
Click to expand...

IMO it might be redundant with that particular head. Unless you use a preamp pedal that goes to FOH. Or maybe before a compressor would be useful.

Having said that, not sure there would be any downside. It's also a great buffer.
 
#65
freedomryder said:
IMO it might be redundant with that particular head. Unless you use a preamp pedal that goes to FOH. Or maybe before a compressor would be useful.

Having said that, not sure there would be any downside. It's also a great buffer.
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Might be good to use with my other amp. As I read earlier, this was a DB product originally, but some using it with electric bass too, but I've read somewhere it doesn't go as well with passive electrics. Any truth to this?
 
#68
Stu_Bass said:
It's a clean unity gain circuit. Doesn't change your tone but will act as a buffer. Which model are you talking about?
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Mesa d800+ is main amp. Also have gk mb200 and have had and might have an aguilar amp as well.

d800+ already has adjustable hfp. Just didn't know if they were similar in result/function.

As far as the passive thing goes, I thought I read something about the impedance...
 
#69
Anyone know how long a battery is supposed to last in a series 1? Also what's the minimum voltage that the pedal will run on? Mine seems to have used up it's first battery - even though it still passes the "tongue test". Works fine for a couple minutes then fades out. I don't remember if the battery (procell) came with it or if it was a used one I had sitting around. I think I got about 150 hours out of it. I'll do a proper test on the battery tomorrow, maybe measure the current draw too...
 
#70
RoadRanger said:
Anyone know how long a battery is supposed to last in a series 1? Also what's the minimum voltage that the pedal will run on? Mine seems to have used up it's first battery - even though it still passes the "tongue test". Works fine for a couple minutes then fades out. I don't remember if the battery (procell) came with it or if it was a used one I had sitting around. I think I got about 150 hours out of it. I'll do a proper test on the battery tomorrow, maybe measure the current draw too...
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I read up a lot before I bought mine years ago and fdeck wrote a post where he said his calculations predicted 40-80 hours of life on a typical Energizer battery. In another post he suggested that the unit should work okay down to about 8.5 V if your bass input isn't too hot.

I also recall reading a post that the current draw was in the 7-10 mA range, so with the typical capacity of most new 9 volt alkaline batteries and a starting voltage around 9.4+ V or so I would think this probably makes sense.
 
#71
This morning the battery measured 7.5V so yup it's lower than 8.5V . 9V batteries are rated dead at 4.2V so this pedal won't get all the life out of them. With a new battery I measured the current draw at 4.2 MA. For some reason I thought the current draw was quite a bit less than that, probably because it's battery-only. I put a 50 cent dollar store battery in it, it'll be interesting to see how long that lasts LOL.
 
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#72
I'm having terrific results with the Fdeck HPF-Pre Series 3 Mini. Tuned in the deepest, most open bass tone in my Barefaced Super Twin 212 at about 50-55Hz. I had sold my Fdeck Series 2 and Series 3 HPFs when I sold my acoustic basses; had no idea the HPF would be equally valuable for electric. Shows that one should not presume before hearing with your own ears!!

Noble - HPF - Tuner.JPG
 
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