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Anyone else not fond of 14"-16" radius fingerboards?

BluesBassFreak

Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2007
517
361
WA state
I am a self-confessed gear whore and have been looking at or bought some new basses recently. It seems that a lot of the newer basses out there in the $1500-$3000 (maybe others) price range are going to the flatter fingerboards. I recently received a new Bluesman Vintage build and John "accidently" put a neck with a 14" fingerboard on it and I just cannot warm up to it. This isn't the only bass I've played with the "flat" fingerboards.
I CAN'T GROOVE A FLAT FINGERBOARD!
Anyone else with me?
 
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Anyone else with me?
i'm with you in spirit --- maybe not in practice: i'm totally with you in terms of preferring a radius --- but i can make do on all that i've played. i keep telling myself that i'd love a 7 1/4" radius (because i played a few years ago and thought they were the bomb then), but i have none. most of mine sport 9 1/2" or so, and i have a couple that are flatter (12" maybe).

for me: i can adjust to flatter boards if other neck dimensions help me 'compensate' (width/narrowness and thick/thin) + the general "ergonomics" of the particular instrument. it's all the pieces parts and how they work (or don't work) together.

i wonder if you'd get along better with the flatter board if the neck profile changed a little --- easy to do, and it might save the ax for you. good luck with your fingerboard! :thumbsup:
 
i'm with you in spirit --- maybe not in practice: i'm totally with you in terms of preferring a radius --- but i can make do on all that i've played. i keep telling myself that i'd love a 7 1/4" radius (because i played a few years ago and thought they were the bomb then), but i have none. most of mine sport 9 1/2" or so, and i have a couple that are flatter (12" maybe).

for me: i can adjust to flatter boards if other neck dimensions help me 'compensate' (width/narrowness and thick/thin) + the general "ergonomics" of the particular instrument. it's all the pieces parts and how they work (or don't work) together.

i wonder if you'd get along better with the flatter board if the neck profile changed a little --- easy to do, and it might save the ax for you. good luck with your fingerboard! :thumbsup:

You might be right. I have 2 Mike Lull basses and just sold another. I think they all have 12" boards yet they all feel a bit different.
 
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I’ve preferred playing Rickenbackers for decades, and they have a fairly flat radius (12”?), but coupled with a wide neck, it seems to work really well for me.
I’ve put my Peavey Paladium up for sale, as the combination of a super thin neck with a 14-16” radius isn’t working for me.
And, of the 3 GL basses I’ve owned, I’ve preferred the 7.25 and 9.5 radius necks over the 12”.
 
how do you accidentally put on the wrong fingerboard? is that like accidentally wearing someone else shoes home from the bowling alley?

Haa! Long story that I'd probably have to address in a PM.

I’ve preferred playing Rickenbackers for decades, and they have a fairly flat radius (12”?), but coupled with a wide neck, it seems to work really well for me.
I’ve put my Peavey Paladium up for sale, as the combination of a super thin neck with a 14-16” radius isn’t working for me.
And, of the 3 GL basses I’ve owned, I’ve preferred the 7.25 and 9.5 radius necks over the 12”.

You know I think you guys are possibly onto something. Maybe a thicker neck- ALTHOUGH- two things. 1. The neck on the Bluesman wasn't thin, but not thick either, Jazz-like. 2. I remember owning a couple of Spectors (quite a few years ago) and never being able to warm-up to their necks. I think they are relatively flat fingerboards also (?)
 
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On a 4-string I don't think I care. I've got three fenders and a sterling which probably have at least a couple different radii, but i couldn't tell you which are flatter or rounder without measuring.

I've got a cheapo 6-string fretless that's super flat, and an ibby fretless 6 on order with a 15.7" radius... I think for a 6 it makes sense to be flatter for access to the low strings, but I've never played one with more curve so i don't really know.
 
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I what I got now is 14.5, and I like it a lot even though it's flatter than any other bass I have had. When I was shopping for basses the last time, I thought I was getting a Mustang, but I ended not vibing at all with the thick neck and 9.5 radius - much to my own surprise.
 
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I think I have issues with anything bigger than 9.5". I posted the other day how my main player with a 7.25 and another bass with a 9.5, I have no issues playing, but other basses with 10, 12 or 14, gave me serious and painful issues! Not really too sure if it was the radius or not, but I had to let those basses go. I will probably stick to basses with 7.25....seem to work the best for me.
 
Haa! Long story that I'd probably have to address in a PM.



You know I think you guys are possibly onto something. Maybe a thicker neck- ALTHOUGH- two things. 1. The neck on the Bluesman wasn't thin, but not thick either, Jazz-like. 2. I remember owning a couple of Spectors (quite a few years ago) and never being able to warm-up to their necks. I think they are relatively flat fingerboards also (?)
I tend to classify Jazz bass necks as thin…..;)
I had a Spector ns2j that had a 16” radius with a 1.5” nut. The neck was pretty playable for me, though ultimately I sold it. (That was more about the emgs/active sound than the playability, though.)
 
I am a self-confessed gear whore and have been looking at or bought some new basses recently. It seems that a lot of the newer basses out there in the $1500-$3000 (maybe others) price range are going to the flatter fingerboards. I recently received a new Bluesman Vintage build and John "accidently" put a neck with a 14" fingerboard on it and I just cannot warm up to it. This isn't the only bass I've played with the "flat" fingerboards.
I CAN'T GROOVE A FLAT FINGERBOARD!
Anyone else with me?

A 10" fingerboard radius (like Warmoth or AllParts) is about as flat as I can go.
 
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