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Applying wipe-on polyurethane, ventilation?

bthiemann80

bthiemann80

Mar 31, 2007
612
117
Central Illinois
#1
I'm putting together a parts bass and am considering using the minwax wipe on polyurethane (oil or water based) for the neck and body finishes. This would be my first time with the wipe on poly and I have a couple questions.

First, I plan to use a maple neck w/ maple fretboard. It is a mighty mite that had polyurethane satin on it as a sealer. I was originally planning to use lacquer, so I sanded off the poly from the neck with the exception of the fret board, which as I started to sand I realized that this would literally take days to take the poly finish off. If i were to sand the remaining poly between the frets with 220 or so and sand the rest of the neck smooth, would that be sufficient base for the wipe on poly?

Second, does wipe on poly stick to frets? If so, is there anything I can do aside from masking them off w/ tape that will keep it from sticking?

Also, what kind of ventilation is needed to apply the wipe on poly with? I have a one bedroom apartment and can open a window a bit to improve air flow but its about 15 degrees outside, so it could only be for short amounts of time. From what I understand, the water based wipe on poly gives off less fumes, would that be alright to use instead of the oil based for my set up or is the difference between the two too nominal to tell?
 
#2
Don't use water based poly. It won't adhere as well. Now that you've already screwed with the fingerboard you'll probably have to finish it too. You'll have to sand everything to a dull 220, clean off the dust and apply the poly. Wipe a thin coat on quickly and then immediately take a clean cotton cloth dampened with paint thinner and wipe off the poly from the frets. Work quickly before the poly dries and you'll get it clean. It's the playing surface of the frets you are mainly concerned with.

The rest of the neck should be no problem but sand it with 220 first also.

Yes, you need some ventilation. Crack a window open a few inches and you should be okay. You must keep the bass above 68 degrees F or so for the minwax to harden properly. You'll need to do a couple more coats on the back of the neck. Sand very lightly when the first coat is fully dry with 400 grit wet or dry paper used dry, wipe off the dust and apply the next coat. The fingerboard you may be able to get away with one coat.

Read the directions on the can.

Don't try to flood the surface with the poly. Thin coats are best. If the temperature is high enough it dries hard enough to sand and apply the next coat in about 6 hours.

Let the final coat dry for at least a week before subjecting it to any use. If it's too glossy on the back for you, take it down to satin with 0000 steel wool.
 
#4
hmmm weird... I finished my last bass right in my bedroom cuz I can't be a day in the shop without making dust... It aint good for profit. I used Minwax wipe on, I freakin love it. Either im crazy and the fumes have already destroyed my brain, or I can't smell for.... I just woke up with a headache in the morning but thats about it.
 
#6
T2W said:
hmmm weird... I finished my last bass right in my bedroom cuz I can't be a day in the shop without making dust... It aint good for profit. I used Minwax wipe on, I freakin love it. Either im crazy and the fumes have already destroyed my brain, or I can't smell for.... I just woke up with a headache in the morning but thats about it.
Click to expand...

Yeah plus the fumes absorb into your hair, skin, mouth, nose, clothes and anything in the room at the time. I've burned a few cells working with that stuff.
 
#8
Yep, it sure is. I really like it for certain situations, ex: working with old ladies who fear for their cats and their plants, customers can be really crazy, It does smell for a few days but it's not like BIN or floor finishes, the smell, at first, is not that strong.
 
#11
Alembicplyr said:
Try not to burn up any brain cells as well, or that's not all you'll claim ;)
Click to expand...
:) Seriously though, more ventilation is better, you're right. The problem during winter up here is that opening a window wide can cool a room down to below the optimum drying temperature very quickly. I stay out of the room and keep the door closed. The wipe on poly I use dries very quickly so the fumes are only objectionable for a few hours. Of course you have to also wipe up spills, not splash the stuff around and promptly dispose of application cloths.

I just installed a ventilation fan in my basement workshop that vents through a hole in the window and is sealed well. It works nicely. Because the fumes from varnish and paint are heavier than air and sink to the floor, it's important to have the fan intake mounted low enough. It does cool the room some but not seriously.
I wouldn't use this exhaust fan with nitro lacquer though. That's much more volatile stuff.
 

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