Are some basses built to have higher action?

[JeezyMcNuggles]

I love high action.

...but I digress. I hope you find a solution.

Yup, me too. Keeps everything clean, and the notes strong.

 

[bassplayer9512]

I dont mind higher action as long as it's not so high it's going out of tune

 

[matante]

I tend to play with a really light touch. I don't play technically, but I like comfort. Furthermore, I move my hand further from or to the neck/bridge if I want dynamics, without turning up.

For playing with a lighter touch, a lighter gauge of strings will give you more comfort and ease of playing without the drawbacks that come from chasing ultra low action. Also, for ultra low action to sound good, more neck relief is required, not less. I'm just saying, low action is fine and all, but the numbers you gave are super ultra low, there's no reason to expect a mass production bass to to suit your unique needs. You must pluck the sting much softer than anyone else.

 

[Gyver]

Interesting question. I have a 50th Anniversary Fender Jazz Bass that had the same problem (couldn't go as low as I wanted because the saddles couldn't go any lower). Because it is a bolt-on I was able to add a shim and solve the problem, but I was surprised the problem existed in the first place. I used to own a Ernie Ball MusicMan Sterling Classic that had the same problem, seems weird that any "pricey" bass would have such a seemingly simple to solve issue. But to answer the question, no, I don't think this is by design but rather is a flaw in the design.

 

[SteveCS]

I haven't heard of anyone using 3/64" on the G, especially with only .008" of relief. I'm not sure why you think those specs are doable or even desirable. Maybe if you use that bass for tapping and nothing else, or if it's a fretless. Even for a fretless I wouldn't expect those numbers to work.

Such numbers can and do work but the fingerboard or fretwork must be flawless...

 

[JZQuantum]

Other than turning the truss rod, get a thinner bridge plate? Or get smaller saddles?

Did you check that the nut slot depth is cut properly? They sometimes come in high cut even on $$$ basses.

I never had a set neck but I am guessing the only way to get lower action than the manufacturer designed in is to do some of the above mods.

 

[TheIndieKid]

Other than turning the truss rod, get a thinner bridge plate? Or get smaller saddles?

Did you check that the nut slot depth is cut properly? They sometimes come in high cut even on $$$ basses.

I never had a set neck but I am guessing the only way to get lower action than the manufacturer designed in is to do some of the above mods.

I think the nut is cut fine, but the fretwork may not be absolutely perfect. When I set the G string to 3/64, I couldn't pluck the 3rd fret with the same force as all the others.

 

[TheIndieKid]

For playing with a lighter touch, a lighter gauge of strings will give you more comfort and ease of playing without the drawbacks that come from chasing ultra low action. Also, for ultra low action to sound good, more neck relief is required, not less. I'm just saying, low action is fine and all, but the numbers you gave are super ultra low, there's no reason to expect a mass production bass to to suit your unique needs. You must pluck the sting much softer than anyone else.

I am looking into some round-core flatwounds. They might fit the bill.

Why does low action require more relief, if you play with a light touch? Just curious. I pluck with floating thumb technique and fingers almost perpendicular to the string.

 

[matante]

I am looking into some round-core flatwounds. They might fit the bill.

Why does low action require more relief, if you play with a light touch? Just curious. I pluck with floating thumb technique and fingers almost perpendicular to the string.

Because there's a limit to how light you can play and you don't gain anything with a super straight neck. If you go with a neck relief of say .012" or even .024", and keep the same string action you'll have less fret buzz and more options for technique. Straighter necks are for guys who like higher action.

 

[JZQuantum]

I think the nut is cut fine, but the fretwork may not be absolutely perfect. When I set the G string to 3/64, I couldn't pluck the 3rd fret with the same force as all the others.

Ok, maybe some high frets. A check with a straightedge might be in order to check for localized frets that are high, unseated or something.

 

[Maxdusty]

One bass comes to mind. The Cort Curbow has a bridge that is screwed on to the curved body so the bridge itself is on a slope. (probably should have created a recessed bridge area on the body. I've had a few Curbows and the best you can get is to get it at an average string height by bottoming the saddles. To top it off, the neck is at a forward angle so the middle of the neck has the highest action on the fretboard. To fix this, you would have to shim the neck to get it to go backwards a bit, you can then get the action fairly low.