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avatar b210neo

hey guys, im gonna replace my svt410hlf with 2 210neos.

the two things I want to know are.

What are the sensitivity rating of the cabs? because I cannot find this information on their website.

and I would also like to know if since they are 500 watt rms each, and Im using a backline 600, will the 300 watt amp to the 1000 watt rms cabs be rediculously underpowered?

I do plan in the future to buy a new head but not for another year or so.
 
hey guys, im gonna replace my svt410hlf with 2 210neos.

the two things I want to know are.

What are the sensitivity rating of the cabs? because I cannot find this information on their website.

and I would also like to know if since they are 500 watt rms each, and Im using a backline 600, will the 300 watt amp to the 1000 watt rms cabs be rediculously underpowered?

I do plan in the future to buy a new head but not for another year or so.

Avatar used to publish sensitivity ratings. Evryone says their neo cabs are as sensitive as the others out there. I'd ignore that spec. It's pretty well meaningless because nobody tells you at which frequency it's being measured. What I'd like to know, and hardly anyone will say, is, what it the sensitivity between 40 and 100 Hz. You can get some cabinet with a manufacturers sensitivity spec at 103 db and it might be- at 1000 Hz. But down on the fundamentals of your bottom strings there'll be nothing.

Anyhow, all that aside, your Backline will put out about 300 watts split evenly between the Avatars which are of average efficiecy and put out decent bottom end for 2x10s. You have enough power (about 150 watts per cabinet) to easily drive the Avatars into distortion in the deepest bass frequencies way before you reach the rated 500 watts per cabinet (another pretty well useless specification). But it'll be pretty loud and fairly clean at any volume you would expect a pair of 2x10s to be played at. You won't be ridiculously underpowered. It won't hurt anything. Sure it would nice to have more headroom. The bottom end always feels more solid when you do. but for now you're fine.

I used to have a GK400RB that put out a maximum of about 225 watts into 4 ohms driving a pair of 300 watt rated single 15 cabinets for a total 4 ohm load and speakers able to handle a total of 6oo watts. I could play pretty loud. Enough for anything except outdoor stages at too high volumes. I later got a 1000 watt GK. I played at the same volume. The bass notes had a bit more heft to them and at ridiculous volumes the sound was a touch cleaner. But I didn't gain much in audible power. The speakers were pretty well being maxed out with the type of eq I used. The 1000 watt GK cost twice as much and weighed more than twice as much. Naturally it was only loafing at my top volume whereas the 400RB was running a bit warm. But the 400RB didn't fail.
 
now ive changed my mind and have gone with Dr. Bass rx210 + rx115 combination, whats your guys' take on the efficiency.

also if someone could explain to me what the difference of say a 99db sensitive cab is and a 100db sensitivity cab is, I dont really undestand efficiency all to well
 
now ive changed my mind and have gone with Dr. Bass rx210 + rx115 combination, whats your guys' take on the efficiency.

also if someone could explain to me what the difference of say a 99db sensitive cab is and a 100db sensitivity cab is, I dont really undestand efficiency all to well

1db






:smug: Sorry for being a smart alec; sometimes I can't resist.
 
I know 1 db, I can do math but will this just mkae my head 1 db louder or something?:confused:

You're still all hung up on the importance of the efficiency thing. I'd ask, how does this cabinet sound? Will it fill a room with a good solid bass and hang with a drummer and a couple guitar players? How much power does it take to do this?

Then go out and try a bunch of cabinets with your amp head and see what works for you. There are a lot of 2x10 cabinets to try. You won't get a chance to try a Dr.Bass cabinet but you'll get an idea what different cabinets sound like and you'll get an idea of the differences in apparent loudness between them. Then take a chance and order the Dr.Bass if you couldn't find anything else you liked.
 
I dont really care all too much about the db ratings on the cabs, I just wanted someone to educate me on the subject as I see it thrown around here all the time and never have any idea what it means.

Okay. The whole thing about manufacturer's advertised efficiency is discussed at length here and it's often misunderstood. It's probably the least important spec you'll see listed by a manufacturer. They print it because if they can print a high number, people who don't know better will think their cabinet is way louder. And to new players, loud is good.

Another one is the power handling.