Double Bass Azola Bug II Bridge Radius

[Chuck_G]

Hi All,

Not sure if this has been addressed in elsewhere, but I did a couple searches on this that didn't turn up anything specific...

I picked up an Azola Bug II recently and have been getting into it. I'm getting used to the ergonomics, but there's one issue that's really nagging me: the contour of the bridge is such that no matter how I adjust the neck, there's always more space between the G string and the fingerboard than the E string and the fingerboard - basically the opposite of my acoustic instrument. Given that the pickup element is embedded in the bridge itself, I'm hesitant to shave (or otherwise alter) the bridge.

Has anyone else dealt with this? Can the bridge itself be altered or are there any work-arounds?

Thanks in advance!

 

[MuseChaser]

Replying mostly because I don't want to miss reading other responses. I have a BugBass II also, and the more I play it, the more I love it. I, too, have noticed that the string height contour is not the same as most of the double bases I've played, with the G string a bit higher than usual in relation to the E string (although not actually higher than the E).
After experimenting with various height adjustments with the fingerboard (one of the many great things about this bass is just how easy that is to adjust), I don't mind that little extra height to the G...it opens up a wider range of tone and articulation up top without requiring a lot of height on the lower strings that would cause excess fatigue and physical challenges.

Still, interested in what others have to say.

 

[Francois Blais]

Do you know what's the pickup?
When I had an original BugBass it was a KK Bass Max, which you could remove easily.
I doubt yours would be embedded up to the bridge crown so reshaping should not be a problem, but I'm not sure as I don't know what's the pickup.

 

[Chuck_G]

Do you know what's the pickup?
When I had an original BugBass it was a KK Bass Max, which you could remove easily.
I doubt yours would be embedded up to the bridge crown so reshaping should not be a problem, but I'm not sure as I don't know what's the pickup.

Thank you, Francois. I don't know what pickup it is, but I can take a picture of the underside of the bridge and follow up tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Francois Blais]

Thank you, Francois. I don't know what pickup it is, but I can take a picture of the underside of the bridge and follow up tonight or tomorrow.

Great, thanks!

 

[Slevage]

I’ve been using an original Bugbass 5 string with a floating top for at least 20 years.
Mine has 2 piezo pickups stuck in the slots at the treble and bass side of the instrument, so they are easily removed. I’m uncertain if the design of the II changed.
I’ve taken my bass completely apart to work on the pots a couple times and found disassembly and reassembly easy.
As far as bridge work, I see you are in Boston. If you are not comfortable working on your bass, take a trip to Upton Bass in Mystic, CT. They are nice guys and very competent.

 

[Chuck_G]

Great, thanks!

François (and everyone),

Sorry I didn't have a chance to post yesterday. Here's the best pictures I could get of the bridge from the top and underside. I don't see the pickup element itself. As you can see from the third picture, I was able to fit an index card into the slot next to where the wire meets the bridge, so there's nothing *there.*

 

[Francois Blais]

Great!
So that means the element in somewhere into the bridge foot.
You can then reshape the bridge crown as you wish.
If you slack the strings and remove the bridge to check it, I bet there's a hole in the foot.
Only place to insert a piezo element as far as I undestand.

 

[Chuck_G]

Great!
So that means the element in somewhere into the bridge foot.
You can then reshape the bridge crown as you wish.
If you slack the strings and remove the bridge to check it, I bet there's a hole in the foot.
Only place to insert a piezo element as far as I undestand.

Thanks! Yes - that makes sense; I restrung the bass the other night, and under the G-side foot, there's a notch which matches a small screw in the body, which sets the bridge placement. Under the E-side foot, there was... a piece of felt or something(?) which must be the covering for the pickup element.

I'll follow up when I have an update on the work getting done. Thanks, everyone!

 

[dylanjohnson]

Chuck,
Email Mr. Azola. He is willing to answer basic questions and yes, this was the final iteration of his pickup which was embedded in the bridge. I would talk to Steve before I altered anything. Mine has the same pickup, but I do not have the same issue you do. As for the playability, I strongly suggest taking the bass to a nearby bass luthier to dial in your bass. I had a Bugbass II that had a full setup (bridge work and fingerboard planing) done at Bob Beerman's shop and it played really very nicely.

 

[Chuck_G]

Chuck,
Email Mr. Azola. He is willing to answer basic questions and yes, this was the final iteration of his pickup which was embedded in the bridge. I would talk to Steve before I altered anything. Mine has the same pickup, but I do not have the same issue you do. As for the playability, I strongly suggest taking the bass to a nearby bass luthier to dial in your bass. I had a Bugbass II that had a full setup (bridge work and fingerboard planing) done at Bob Beerman's shop and it played really very nicely.

Thanks, Dylan!

I did PM Mr. Azola after my last post. I've figured out how to set the endpin, and a comfortable stance, so I feel like if this bridge thing is sorted out, the transition from my acoustic instrument will be much easier.

I've got a couple things in the fall that I think the Bug will really fit, so I'm really hoping this works out.

I'll update this thread when I have news.

 

[dylanjohnson]

I'm not sure if he frequents TB anymore. If you don't hear from him, you can find his email in previous posts via search.

 

[Chuck_G]

I'm not sure if he frequents TB anymore. If you don't hear from him, you can find his email in previous posts via search.

Thank you!!! He did post in late 2023, so I'll give it a day or two...

 

[MuseChaser]

I'm not sure if he frequents TB anymore. If you don't hear from him, you can find his email in previous posts via search.

Thank you!!! He did post in late 2023, so I'll give it a day or two...

Fwiw, I tried to contact Bob at a phone number I found for him posted somewhere with a few questions as I was in the process of buying and the first week of ownership of my Azola, about six months or so ago. I never heard back, but it's entirely possible the number I had was an old one. I'd be interested in contacting him, too, if anyone is successful in doing so.

 

[Mike Carr]

Before you you begin altering your bridge try this very simple adjustment first. Take enough tension off your strings so you can gently push or tap your bridge a millimeter or two to the west of center line while looking straight at the front of the bass. That peg that keeps the bridge in position under the g string side of the bridge might allow for enough wiggle room. Do this carefully and gradually as not to damage your bridge. You might find that even a small adjustment like this will result in your G String being a bit lower and your E String feeling a bit higher. If the lower strings now feel too high then adjust the neck angle to lower all the strings. This might save you a trip to the luthier and should not affect the sound of your bass adversely.

 

[Chuck_G]

Before you you begin altering your bridge try this very simple adjustment first. Take enough tension off your strings so you can gently push or tap your bridge a millimeter or two to the west of center line while looking straight at the front of the bass. That peg that keeps the bridge in position under the g string side of the bridge might allow for enough wiggle room. Do this carefully and gradually as not to damage your bridge. You might find that even a small adjustment like this will result in your G String being a bit lower and your E String feeling a bit higher. If the lower strings now feel too high then adjust the neck angle to lower all the strings. This might save you a trip to the luthier and should not affect the sound of your bass adversely.

Thanks, Mike! I'll try that today!

 

[Chuck_G]

Hi All,

I did another round of tweaking the Bug this morning. Below is a picture of the underside of the bridge and the top of the body, so you can see the pickup element as well as the notch in the G-string foot and the small screw for alignment.

By any chance, does anyone recognize the pickup element?

@ Mike Carr: I did try your suggestion, and it improved the E, but it left the A-G strings too high for my taste.

I'll post as new information emerges...

 

[DoubleMIDI]

What I guess what was done for the pickup:

Drill a hole in cable diameter 2/3 of the bridge thickness for the cable.
Drill a hole upward from the E foot in the middle of the bridge thickness below the former hole so that it joins the thicker hole.

Remove black isolation for a bit longer than thick hole to bridge foot distance.
Maybe remove a bit of wood at the foot where the cable gets out.
Remove a bit of wood at the lower hole so that the shield wire can reach the brass of the piezo disk.
Put the cable in the big hole with bent ends so I hat they get into the small one.
Tricky. Maybe a large needle can help to catch the ends and pull it through the smaller hole.

If you see the wire ends are long enough to solder, glue in the black isolated part into the bridge.
Solder the wires to the disk (shield at brass, hot at silver plating). Be quick!
Glue the piezo disk in under some pressure to get a good mechanical contact. If it is in too deep, add some epoxy to make it flush with the bridge foot. If you want, paint it or put a paper sticker over it.

I’m pretty sure that it was made very similar, so no problem to change the bridge crown, but better make it incrementally in small steps and try (also with the bow if every string has a good angle before touching the neighbors) as pickup and bridge are a single part now that need to be replaced as a whole.

 

[Chuck_G]

OK! BIG update time!

Last week, I messaged Steve Azola here, but there was some kind of issue with me getting the reply, but I tracked down his email address in a previous thread and reached out. And first of all, Steve was great through the whole thing, replying clearly and promptly (sometimes within minutes) to all my questions. So: Three cheers for Steve Azola! It'd be a better world if everyone stood behind their work like him.

He also gave me permission to quote our emails so, I am doing so, with some light editing, because I think his words will be more useful than mine on all of this. Apologies for the long post, but I figure this might as well be recorded *somewhere* right?

My first email to him was explaining the situation as I did above. He replied:

Hello Chuck,

Glad to hear you're enjoying the bass so far. Sorry about the string height problem. It should be an easy fix. I set up the basses with a 2-3 mm height difference between the G and E string, G being lower. But, the neck and bridge must be centered to achieve this. So it sounds like the neck has to be moved slightly side to side to have it land with strings centered on the fingerboard. Look at the bass straight on front the front, and I'm betting it will show the G being close her to the edge than the E. This will change the string height, as you're dealing with 2 arches, the bridge, and the fingerboard. I'm hoping you can understand my description.

So to move the neck over, just loosen the bottom tilt screws a little, and bump the bottom of the fingerboard over a bit. There is a bit of clearance in the neck pocket, to allow this, also the tilt. After it's centered, tighten the screws. The bridge will move a little side to side, but just a small amount. Make sure the bridge feet sit flat on the body surface, very important for the pickup to work properly. And yes, the pickup is embedded in the foot, something I developed over the years.

Hope this helps, and that it makes the bass play better for you!

Regards,
Steve


....I replied....

Hi Steve,

Thank you for the reply. I *think* I follow, but, just so I'm clear, this is how I interpret your instructions:

1. Loosen the two outer bottom screws. (Do I need to loosen the middle tilt screw as well?)

2. Making sure the bridge feet are flat on the body, move the neck, in the pocket, toward the G string side.

...Yes?

Thanks again!

Chuck

....He replied...

Hi Chuck,
Yes it sounds like you have the idea of what I suggested. You shouldn't have to loosen the tilt screw, unless the string height changes, and it may, once you get it centered. Re adjust as required.
Let me know how it goes.
Steve

...I replied...

Steve,

Thanks for the prompt reply! I loosened the lower screws so screw heads were protruding by at least an inch, and the neck just didn't budge... any suggestions?

Thanks again,

Chuck

...And Steve replied...

Chuck,

That's way too loose, they just need to be loosened just a few turns. But what you did won't do any damage. Maybe loosen the strings, and top screws a bit to allow a little movement. Does the pocket look tight, or is there a little clearance? There's only 2 reasons that the strings aren't aligned. 1 is the neck being off in its side to side alignment. The other is the bridge being off, but you said that it is resting on top of the positioning screw like it should be. So I'm guessing that the neck got shifted in shipping to you. Keep trying to move it a bit, that should take care of things. If that doesn't work, you'll have to move the bridge over to get the alignment, and drill a new small hole for the positioning screw.

Steve


So, I did try moving the neck as he suggested, but it wouldn't budge, and honestly, I'm not great at eyeballing these things, and plus I don't have a good workspace for this in my apartment. So, I called up my pal, the awesome Mark Carlsen, and took it to his shop today. Mark is an excellent luthier, as most of us in the Boston area know, plus his shop is better for this kind of thing, and he has a hand-carved gauge for measuring string height above the fingerboard.

He noticed right away that the strings were too far over on the G string side. But the alignment screw being where it was, we couldn't move the bridge far enough toward the E string side. So, just in the spirit of playing around with this - I don't want to cut this bridge unless absolutely necessary - we just took out the alignment screw and voilà! We moved the bridge about 3/16" toward the E string, and the bridge radius matches the fingerboard radius very well, as Steve said. Hopefully you can see the original "footprint" of the bridge below:

Unlike cutting the bridge, this is a reversible modification, and the string tension is holding the bridge in place just fine. Now the E string is great, but the G is a *little* low, but it's a huge improvement, so I'm going to try to play it like this for a while and see if I get comfortable with it before I try any more tweaks.

Hope this is helpful to y'all, and thank you for your input and interest! I'm happy to answer any questions as best I can.

 

[Francois Blais]

Thanks for the detailed followup!
You can always put a small piece of thin leather between the G string and the bridge to lift it up a bit.