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Double Bass Azola EUBs Megathread
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Am having a hard time getting strings for my beloved old Bug Bass. They have to be the exact length. I think the model # of the Labellas I've been using are RC6610L, yet I can't seem to find them anywhere. 6610's, yes, but not 6610L's. Any help? Am open at this point to any string that will fit...
Thanks in advance
PS will Clevinger or NS Design strings fit?
www.claudearthur.com
Thanks in advance
PS will Clevinger or NS Design strings fit?
www.claudearthur.com
Hi Claude, and welcome on Talkbass.
I've deleted the same question you asked in the Strings forum.
Please refrain from cross-posting.
I also merged your question in the Azola EUB megathread, where you'll find many infos.
The strings that came on the BugBass were Labella RC610 light gauge in special lenght.
These were custom-made for the Azolas.
You can use regular 3/4 size DB strings on it.
I had one for a few years, and now have another EUB since about 12 years that has similar dimensions.
That said, 1/2 size DB strings fit better as they're shorter.
There are much less choices however.
In the D'Addario Helicore line, you can get 1/2 size sets in the Orchestral and Hybrid types.
If you'd rather get something thinner, I suggest the Corellis.
The 350A set is tungsten wound, while the 300A is nickel wound. I prefer the nickels as they're warmer sounding. (and cheaper)
Bob G. has a special half size sets selection here:
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He doesn't carry the 300A set though, but other retailers carry them.
D'Addario has the Prelude line, which are student grade, and available is lots of sizes.
They're good strings, but beware that the half size set on a 3/4 scale instrument such as the Bugbass will yield a very stiff feel and very dark tone. (had them in the past)
Hope this helps!
No problem, Claude.
With 3/4 size strings, there is more slack to wind up, but it's not a big problem.
You may well prefer to get 1/2 size strings.
However you must keep this in mind: it's possible that some 1/2 size DB strings are thicker than their 3/4 size counterpart. (for instance Spirocores)
That means than put on a 3/4 scale instrument, you'll get more tension than with the 3/4 size string, which may not be desirable.
However, not all 1/2 size strings are thicker.
Some are 3/4 size strings cut shorter.
I think Helicore 1/2 sizes are thicker than 3/4s.
That's why I suggested Corellis.
These strings are thin from the start, so even if they're a tad thicker, that's no big deal because they'll be very playable and comfortable anyway.
Look at the tungstens if you want a bright tone and the nickels for a warmer tone.
On my Bug, the strings are first run from the front of the tailpiece, out the back, and then forward again over the top of the tailpiece. I'm using 3/4 size Helicore Hybrids and trimmed the strings to fit. I also filed out the string slot on the E tuner to fit the string end.
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Well, there's nothing to modify.
There are hundreds of Bugbasses and I'm sure most of them sport regular lenght DB strings now.
I'd not do mods that disfigure the instrument.
Better get shorter strings instead, if you can't figure out how to fit longer strings.
Just my $0.02!
There are hundreds of Bugbasses and I'm sure most of them sport regular lenght DB strings now.
I'd not do mods that disfigure the instrument.
Better get shorter strings instead, if you can't figure out how to fit longer strings.
Just my $0.02!
well, the tailpiece does function just fine as it is. i once did have an e string break where it wraps around though. the metal had developed a burr somehow. i prefer the the standard Weich length over the 1/2 size. they are a different gauge and they sound and amplify better too. i compromised the bigger sound and started using Thomastik solo gauge strings for the d and g some years ago. tension issues. some folks use an entire set of solo gauge and are happy...azola told me that many latin players prefer the solo gage for the tone
oth, i think Azola used that tailpiece because they had piles and piles of them they were going to use on the reissue Ampeg Baby Basses they were commissioned to build for a short while. when Ampeg stopped marketing that instrument, Azola continued to build baby basses with their brand name. great instruments, and the tailpiece worked just fine on their other models.
modifying the bass so that standard length strings fit easily is a good idea, and i haven't got around to it yet. it doesn't have to be ugly either......maybe talk to your local luthier about some ideas for the project.
oth, i think Azola used that tailpiece because they had piles and piles of them they were going to use on the reissue Ampeg Baby Basses they were commissioned to build for a short while. when Ampeg stopped marketing that instrument, Azola continued to build baby basses with their brand name. great instruments, and the tailpiece worked just fine on their other models.
modifying the bass so that standard length strings fit easily is a good idea, and i haven't got around to it yet. it doesn't have to be ugly either......maybe talk to your local luthier about some ideas for the project.
Am also wondering two things: 1) where can one get a new bag for the Bug Bass? Mine, although still intact, has become more of a sewing project than a gig bag.... Also: 2) has anyone ever bypassed the volume pot that's on the bass? Just wondering if the Bass Max would sound any different if the pot was bypassed. Thanks
check with Bass Central (florida) on the bag, they were a big Azola dealer. on the pot, yes, by all means bypass that pot. i did on mine. that pickup, or any other of it's type for that matter, will sound better, guaranteed. the other option would be to install an onboard buffer preamp with a 25k ohm or so pot after it. that would be really good imo. i know that Azola was using a preamp unit made by by EMG on the later models.
I also had removed the pot control.
Its resistance was much too low and was certainly loading the pickup.
The gigbag was made by Levy's IIRC.
Its resistance was much too low and was certainly loading the pickup.
The gigbag was made by Levy's IIRC.
You could check with UnderCover Cases in the Denver Area as they make the really nice padded gig bags for NS Basses and they might work for yours or they might be able to make a custom bag for you. I got mine through BassCentral but had spoke directly with them as well. I just posted the dimensions of my case in another thread.
+1 on the Undercover, real nice bags. On the tone: all of the above, but just smoother sounding overall. You don't have to remove the pot, just remove the pickup leads and connect them directly to the output jack. The braided lead is the shield/ground (-), connect that to the ground lug on the jack, connect the other lead (+) to other lug on the jack. You can easily rewire it if you decide you like the sound of the pot in the circuit.
I have a lightning bug semi-hollow body I bought earlier this year here on the TB classifieds. I'm having an awful time trying to tame it's thuddy attack. I've tried every conceivable EQ both on the bass and on the amp (Markbass CMD 121p with a F500 instead of the LM II amp. I've read through the thread, and wondered if anyone else has had this problem and a sloution. Early posts in this thread talk about it but I didn't really see a resolution.
Thanks.
this is my Azola: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f210/*sold*-azola-lightning-bug-hollow-body-797814/
Thanks.
this is my Azola: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f210/*sold*-azola-lightning-bug-hollow-body-797814/
