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Double Bass Azola EUBs Megathread
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I had thud issues with my original bug. Tried a bunch of different strings and pickups. Steve offered to update the pickup and preamp which helped a lot. I use the onboard mid and treble controls as boost only - start out with them at 0 and boost as necessary - rarely get them past 1/4 of the way up. For me the bass is too bright with the onboard EQ flat and you get a lot of attack and string noise. I'm using spiros but I didn't find different strings to make a huge difference - there was some variation but the basic bugbass sound was always there.
I have an original, non-acoustic Bug with a single BassMax pickup and no preamp. The biggest factors I've found for tone shaping have been choice of strings (currently, Sensicores) and a high-pass filter, like the HPF/Pre or the filter on the Clarus.
you'll need to start fussing with the sound post, if it's glued in place, it's going to be a head scratch. if it doesn't have a sound post it's going to be an even harder head scratch. i've got a floating top model with a miniature sound post (about 1/8").....the optimum placement does not conform with traditional DB placement in any way. if your Bug doesn't have solo gauge strings, i'd start by installing some, less tension may help. Thomastik Spiro solo gauge are really good.
This is good advice. I know one of my EQ attempts was with everything flat on the bass, but I'm going to keep trying. I've also got an email in to a local double bass luthier to see what his response is (not sure he works on EUBs).
I had also learned that removing the battery from the preamp gives you no sound. I was hoping maybe by removing the battery I could convert it to instant passive, but not so.
I run my Azola into a SansAmp Bass Driver DI which helps shape the sound nicely. Also, I've been really liking using Spiro Solo gauge strings. Not too bight/whiney and not too thumpy either.
I meant to say I use mid and treble controls as boost only - not bass and treble. I start with the bass at noon.
This is starting to work for me. The attack is still aggressive, but tamed. I can't figure out how in heck you access the preamp on my semi hollow lightning bug - maybe by removing the bridge.
? The bass in the pic in the link you posted there are knobs on the side of the bass - volume bass mid & treble. I start with the bass's mid and treble off and the amp's EQ flat.
Actually, what I meant was if someone were to remove the current pre and try and get inside there and work on it - I really don't see how you'd do it, but I'm not handy that way unfortunately.
The "thunk" you describe might be more of an acoustic or physical phemomina than a result of eq or any problem with the pre-amp. I might suggest you check to see if your bridge has shifted. A millimeter off, north, south east or west changes the resonance and response of the Lightning Bug alot. If you PM me I might be able to send you instructions that Jill Azola sent me some time ago that told how to go about checking the position of the bridge. Yours may have moved a bit in transit or have been knocked asque a bit just be normal handling, in and out of the case, ect. I'm pretty sure I may have saved that e-mail from her. I'd hate to hear of you trying to replace or modify your pre-amp if what you are hearing could be fixed with a very simple bridge position adjustment.
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
I bought my Azola used. It came with no instructions for neck or bridge adjustments. I agree that posting such information here would be extremely helpful.
Sorry, I don't have that e-mail anymore. It's been a couple years now since I recieved it. But to the best of my recollection the process goes like this; Think of it just like a normal DB. The bridge is not fixed, if you de-tension the strings it will move. Before you do that measure the scale, the speaking length of the strings. It should come out to 41 inches for the Lightning Bug. Measure both the E side and the G side. They should be the same. This gets you in the right place in terms of North and South. Then make sure your strings are centered. You should have about the same distance on the E and G side when measured at the center of each string. That can be hard to get exactly so you can also measure the distance from the outside edge of each bridge foot to the edge of the body. If your neck in in alingment, and it most likely is unless the bass is damaged these distances should be the same. Then you can fine tune it West to East if you want so it 'feels right". It's not difficult, something you can do yourself for sure. Then set your neck angle if the strings are too high or too low. Use the hex-key tool that was supplied with the bass. Undue the two bottom bolts, Don't mess with the top two. There is a small hole in the middle, should have a little metal button covering it. Using the tool, turning clockwise makes the strings closer to the fingerboard, counterclockwise pushes the neck up, making the strings farther away. After doing all this replace to two bolts and the small button that covers the neck adjustment access hole and you should be fine!
