I emailed Babicz on Friday about getting a replacement... No word back yet. Hopefully tomorrow I hear something. I did also try calling them, but they said that they respond more quickly to email.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Babicz Full Contact Hardware Bridge review
- Thread starter SeayBass
- Start date
Hey guys, got a quick question:
Watched this video to try and adjust the intonation on my Fender Precision
but after loosening the saddle lock screw, turning the Phillips head screw does not move the saddle back and forth. Any tips?
Let me note that mine is string-through.
Thanks.
Watched this video to try and adjust the intonation on my Fender Precision
but after loosening the saddle lock screw, turning the Phillips head screw does not move the saddle back and forth. Any tips?
Let me note that mine is string-through.
Thanks.
Last edited:
I wrote an email to Babicz Full Contact Hardware, asking for screws and washers for the bridge and they sent me some. Turnaround was less than 2 weeks. I don't remember if I got an email response.
as for moving your string saddle- 2 things:
1. loosen the string a LOT. string thru can hold saddles in place on any bridge due to their placement and angle
2. If you're unable to lengthen your screw/shorten your string length, remove the saddle-lock screw. It could be the lock screw is in a shorter position than necessary, and preventing the saddle to move. Move the screw+washer one hole closer to the nut.
as for moving your string saddle- 2 things:
1. loosen the string a LOT. string thru can hold saddles in place on any bridge due to their placement and angle
2. If you're unable to lengthen your screw/shorten your string length, remove the saddle-lock screw. It could be the lock screw is in a shorter position than necessary, and preventing the saddle to move. Move the screw+washer one hole closer to the nut.
Turnaround
Commercial User
Usually this is the case because they have failed to set the witness point on the string at the saddle.
Turnaround
Commercial User
You can't gain any string length by adjusting the truss rod.
If you need to learn about witness points, you might want to check out this thread:
Stringing, Tuning, Intonation and Witnesses
I had never heard of witness points until today. Reading up about it, I do it already every time I change strings - just didn't know there was a name for it!
When I put on new strings, the first time I tune to pitch, I make sure the wraps are neat and low on the capstan by pushing them down to become uniform. I then detune slightly and push on the string in front of the saddle to make sure it's seated properly whilst tuning to pitch once more.
Every day is a school day!
To be honest, I found the Babicz bridge on my '18 T-Bird to be an utter PITA. Getting it to do anything, would try the patience of a stone; to the point that I started wondering if the bridge on my 4001 Rick would fit on the 'Bird... I did finally get new strings on it and tuned up; I did finally get the bridge/bass set up: and, I did - finally - get it intonated. But, it was a real Mother Chicken of a job, and it took hours. However... to be fair, I watched a couple of "how-to" videos, and... I think mine is just really, really gummed up. Things that the ones in the videos did super easily, mine just didn't want to do at all. I have a '13 T-Bird with the 3 point bridge, and; compared to the Babicz, it's the greatest bass bridge you could have. I'm really hoping the Babicz will redeem itself; but, just in case; does anybody know if a Schaller 3D-4 roller saddle bridge will work an a Thunderbird...?
I'm assuming that bridge was pretty old and not in very good shape.View attachment 3788713 To be honest, I found the Babicz bridge on my '18 T-Bird to be an utter PITA. Getting it to do anything, would try the patience of a stone; to the point that I started wondering if the bridge on my 4001 Rick would fit on the 'Bird... I did finally get new strings on it and tuned up; I did finally get the bridge/bass set up: and, I did - finally - get it intonated. But, it was a real Mother Chicken of a job, and it took hours. However... to be fair, I watched a couple of "how-to" videos, and... I think mine is just really, really gummed up. Things that the ones in the videos did super easily, mine just didn't want to do at all. I have a '13 T-Bird with the 3 point bridge, and; compared to the Babicz, it's the greatest bass bridge you could have. I'm really hoping the Babicz will redeem itself; but, just in case; does anybody know if a Schaller 3D-4 roller saddle bridge will work an a Thunderbird...?
Adjustment on the Babicz is more involved than any other bridge I've ever seen, but then, that's intentional. Once it's set, it's like a rock. I can see where over tightening or a bit of abusive conditions might make things really tough regarding changing settings. Hopefully, you won't need to make any more changes and you can now enjoy the benefits of the Babicz.
I found the A string saddle cam to be height-limited on my neck-thru Carvin...the upper aspect of the cam strikes the adjustment screw. Eventually, I'll fabricate an aluminum shim for the base plate. In the meantime, I replaced it with a conventional Wilkinson bridge ($30 on Amazon). Looks good and sounds the same.
Adjustment on the Babicz was / is a piece of cake, though.
Riis
Adjustment on the Babicz was / is a piece of cake, though.
Riis
I wish that were the case... No, I bought the bass brand new. The bridge was most likely this this way, right out of the box. It was set up well when I got it, so I never messed with the bridge - just played it. I discovered what a PITA it was a couple of months ago, when I put a new set of strings on it. After I finish taking care of all my other basses that need new strings (including the 'Bird with the 3 point bridge), I'll see what the problem with this ... thing... is. For now? It's set up the way I like, and it plays. I have more pressing things to worry about at the moment...
You have the adjustment instructions for the Babicz?I wish that were the case... No, I bought the bass brand new. The bridge was most likely this this way, right out of the box. It was set up well when I got it, so I never messed with the bridge - just played it. I discovered what a PITA it was a couple of months ago, when I put a new set of strings on it. After I finish taking care of all my other basses that need new strings (including the 'Bird with the 3 point bridge), I'll see what the problem with this ... thing... is. For now? It's set up the way I like, and it plays. I have more pressing things to worry about at the moment...
No doubt, it is much more tedious than any other bridge I've ever seen, but it's also a rock solid wonder.
No, but I've watched the setup videos; particularly Jeff Babicz's setup videos. Assuming the thing works like it's supposed to? It looks pretty straightforward to me. How it works is pretty obvious (to a retired engineer like me), and I don't think it would be much of a problem. Certainly no more of a problem - or more tedious - than this thing;
An Alembic bridge can be very tedious, sometimes; the one on my Epic can be, anyway... No, I think the problem with the one on the Blackbird, is that it's binding up, internally, for some reason. I just need to take it apart, and find out why...
I’m thinking that someone unfamiliar with the bridge overtightened the locking screws raising some burrs on the cams. Or someone tried to adjust the cams without loosening the locking screws with the same result.No, but I've watched the setup videos; particularly Jeff Babicz's setup videos. Assuming the thing works like it's supposed to? It looks pretty straightforward to me. How it works is pretty obvious (to a retired engineer like me), and I don't think it would be much of a problem. Certainly no more of a problem - or more tedious - than this thing;
View attachment 3789905 An Alembic bridge can be very tedious, sometimes; the one on my Epic can be, anyway... No, I think the problem with the one on the Blackbird, is that it's binding up, internally, for some reason. I just need to take it apart, and find out why...
maybe you should contact Babicz about your situation and see if they have a solution.
Nah... I just spent the last 3 hours fixing it myself. Works like a champ, now. There were a myriad of little problems, that I just worked through one at a time, very methodically:
- The base plate, where the saddle assemblies slide back and forth, had patches of some kind of sticky - very sticky - goo on it. There were patches of it on the saddle assemblies, too; as well as various other parts - like the saddle travel screws. That stuff was a real mother chicken to get off, too. I finally had to resort to brake cleaner and a stiff brush, to get it off of everything...
- On two of the saddle bodies, tap overrun in the saddle height adjustment holes created burrs that made the drums hard to turn. Fortunately, I'm a very good hand with a needle file...
- Every drum had some kind of burr on it - in widely different places. Needle file, again...
- Threaded holes for about half of the screws had either debris; goop; or both, in them. Brake cleaner, pipe cleaners, and running the screws in and out, took care of that...
- The holes in the base plate for the D and G string saddle adjustment screws were binding on the screw. More work with the needle files...
Once I got everything clean and free of goop, debris, and burrs, I sprayed the bejeezus out of it with Break Free; wiped it down; and re-assembled it. Put it back on the Blackbird; strung it up; re-tuned and intonated it; it's now working like it should have, in the first place. So, do I like the Babicz bridge - now? Well... it's better than some of the bridges on some of my basses; the equal to one or two others; and, sadly, not as good as some others. On a Thunderbird? I really prefer the old 3 pointer, to tell the truth...
Last edited:
I use Babicz bridges on all of my basses, all my bass builds, and all my bass upgrades.
As to the screws, just buy a tube of BLUE Loctite Threadlock and put a dab on the threads of all the screws. They will not back out but you can still adjust them. Do NOT use the RED Threadlock; it’s for permanent thread locking and you’ll mess up your bridge!
As to the screws, just buy a tube of BLUE Loctite Threadlock and put a dab on the threads of all the screws. They will not back out but you can still adjust them. Do NOT use the RED Threadlock; it’s for permanent thread locking and you’ll mess up your bridge!
