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Babicz Full Contact Hardware Bridge review

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How have people found these bridges with setting intonation? I have heard a lot of stories about the E string saddle spring having to be removed to get to the correct pitch.
This is too true. I love the Babicz bridges for regular tuning but it was useless when I tune to C standard and try to intonate that C string. Took out the spring and Intonation was still off enough to make me put the bridge in the parts bin. Just went back to Hipshot. I must say it was a very nice bridge and if I played in a typical EADG tuning it might be ok. I just wish Babicz would make the bridge longer like the Leo Quans. You can intonate those for any tuning.
 
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Love my Babicz bridge...but yes, a pain to adjust.
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You must have purchased the aluminum bridge (they also offer brass), which is pretty light. Either way, the change in tone is minimal, at best.
I joined this site just to agree with you because some of these remarks are made by people who have zero to no or between nothing and none knowledge of how guitar pick ups work ! Lol not to be harsh but ALL of the tone of your signal chain tone that begins in the guitar comes from the pickups . 100% . End of debate . Sorry folks , if you wanna argue this read up on physics and electronics first before you say anything lol
 
I joined this site just to agree with you because some of these remarks are made by people who have zero to no or between nothing and none knowledge of how guitar pick ups work ! Lol not to be harsh but ALL of the tone of your signal chain tone that begins in the guitar comes from the pickups . 100% . End of debate . Sorry folks , if you wanna argue this read up on physics and electronics first before you say anything lol
P.S. Tonewoods are irrelevant in electronic Guitars
 
I joined this site just to agree with you because some of these remarks are made by people who have zero to no or between nothing and none knowledge of how guitar pick ups work ! Lol not to be harsh but ALL of the tone of your signal chain tone that begins in the guitar comes from the pickups . 100% . End of debate . Sorry folks , if you wanna argue this read up on physics and electronics first before you say anything lol

There are some of us who are career engineers, and who have been designing and building basses for decades. You are wrong, and you shouldn't make stupid statements like that.
 
P.S. Tonewoods are irrelevant in electronic Guitars
Except for the very real affect the body has on the way the string vibrates. As string vibration passes back and forth between the string and the body, some frequencies are absorbed by the body which means they are lost to the string as well - so the body is affecting the frequencies that remain in the string. Different woods will absorb frequencies differently. Any change in the frequency response of the string will be detected by the pickup, changing the tone of the resultant sound. Thus "tonewood".
 
Nah... I just spent the last 3 hours fixing it myself. Works like a champ, now. There were a myriad of little problems, that I just worked through one at a time, very methodically:
- The base plate, where the saddle assemblies slide back and forth, had patches of some kind of sticky - very sticky - goo on it. There were patches of it on the saddle assemblies, too; as well as various other parts - like the saddle travel screws. That stuff was a real mother chicken to get off, too. I finally had to resort to brake cleaner and a stiff brush, to get it off of everything...
- On two of the saddle bodies, tap overrun in the saddle height adjustment holes created burrs that made the drums hard to turn. Fortunately, I'm a very good hand with a needle file...
- Every drum had some kind of burr on it - in widely different places. Needle file, again...
- Threaded holes for about half of the screws had either debris; goop; or both, in them. Brake cleaner, pipe cleaners, and running the screws in and out, took care of that...
- The holes in the base plate for the D and G string saddle adjustment screws were binding on the screw. More work with the needle files...
Once I got everything clean and free of goop, debris, and burrs, I sprayed the bejeezus out of it with Break Free; wiped it down; and re-assembled it. Put it back on the Blackbird; strung it up; re-tuned and intonated it; it's now working like it should have, in the first place. So, do I like the Babicz bridge - now? Well... it's better than some of the bridges on some of my basses; the equal to one or two others; and, sadly, not as good as some others. On a Thunderbird? I really prefer the old 3 pointer, to tell the truth...:whistle:
Well...
Even though I did finally get the Babicz bridge on my '18 T-Bird to work like it's supposed to, I never did like it much. It seemed more of an attempt to... well, solve the "bridge design competition" in a novel way, more than anything. It is a good bridge for people who like to - or have to - change their strings a lot. Since I have tape wounds or flats on all but one of 28 basses? I change strings about once every decade or so. How quick and easy string changes are, is not real high on my list of priorities. Which is why the "bridge-from-Hell" on my 2 Ricks doesn't bother me - well, not too much...
Sadly, things reached the point where every time I picked that T-Bird up, the sight of that Babicz bridge just irritated me. To the point that it - along with the mess in the control cavity - became to much for me to deal with. So, about 2 years ago? I sold it... Although I do kinda miss the bass? Don't miss the Babicz bridge - at all...:cool: