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Badass 2 saddle adjustment

Jun 22, 2024
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106
I've run out of adjustment to enable lowering of string height on the E and G strings on my JB.
Truss rod has been checked and double-checked and is set at what I believe is Fender's specification of 0.015".
I'm aware of the option of neck shimming/filing saddles, but don't particularly want to do either.
Is this a common issue with the BA2?
 
Running out of adjustment is a common issue with every imaginable bridge as long as the geometry is wrong.

It seems that the geometry with your bass is wrong.

THUS:
If you have a bolt on bass just use a shim. It's way easier and reversible as opposed to filing carefully the slots.
If you have a Neck Through bass you then have to work on the bridge.
 
The base plate is much thicker on that style of bridge then a bent plate, assuming that’s what you had, so depending on the tolerances what could have been set up well with a bent plate may need a shim with a BA style bridge. Shims are ok, a small piece of veneer or playing card in the body end of the neck pocket and you’ll be playing in no time.
 
Ive seen stingrays and fenders and G&L basses get shims.
Quality of the bass isn’t really the factor. Mass produced (even boutique) wood is going to soak in and lose moisture. Tolerances can be tight. Necks can move. Just kinda how it is. Have you checked your micro tilt on your bass to see if it’s messing with you?

I’d bet a trimmed business card in the neck pocket and a micro tilt adjustment may put you back in business. Need to see pics of the bass too.

Here’s my 2003 Japanese Marcus signature.
FF5743BF-AAF9-42FB-A533-3F43C34AD6C3.jpeg
 
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Hi mellobud,
I'm quickly learning that "Just kinda how it is" is the nature of the beast. And with embarrassment, wasn't aware of the rear neck adjustment grub screw.
I removed the neck earlier and fitted a business card shim. It didn't seem to do anything as I think the screw was set deeper.
After some adjusting of the screw, things are closer than before, but I'll probably go back in and thicken the shim so as not to rely on just the screw.
Hope that makes sense.
 

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If you are interested in a precise answer you can tell us more about the bass.
What is it, was the BA2 stock or a replacement, etc.
EDIT: You also say that you've run out of adjustment, were you ever able to get to the setting you are looking for? And what are those settings?

With the great support on this forum and watching a couple of decent videos, I think I'm on the right track. Thank you!
 
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Hi mellobud,
I'm quickly learning that "Just kinda how it is" is the nature of the beast. And with embarrassment, wasn't aware of the rear neck adjustment grub screw.
I removed the neck earlier and fitted a business card shim. It didn't seem to do anything as I think the screw was set deeper.
After some adjusting of the screw, things are closer than before, but I'll probably go back in and thicken the shim so as not to rely on just the screw.
Hope that makes sense.
Lovely bass you got there. Still stock or have you modded her?
 
Truss rod has been checked and double-checked and is set at what I believe is Fender's specification of 0.015"
i'd try it straighter than that! see if you can get away with .010", that might be all you need to do

also, how are the saddles themselves notched? the saddle notches may need to be deepened a little bit

either way, if this is a three bolt neck then just tilt it like it was designed for! loosen the three neck screws, tighten up that grub screw a bit, re-tighten the main three screws
 
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i'd try it straighter than that! see if you can get away with .010", that might be all you need to do

also, how are the saddles themselves
notched? the saddle notches may need to be deepened a little bit

either way, if this is a three bolt neck then just tilt it like it was designed for! loosen the three neck screws, tighten up that grub screw a bit, re-tighten the main three screws
i'd try it straighter than that! see if you can get away with .010", that might be all you need to do

also, how are the saddles themselves notched? the saddle notches may need to be deepened a little bit

either way, if this is a three bolt neck then just tilt it like it was designed for! loosen the three neck screws, tighten up that grub screw a bit, re-tighten the main three screws

I made some minor adjustments yesterday which I'll assess over the next couple of days and might try the .010" .

It was about 12 years ago a luthier checked over the bass and I recall he mentioned filing the nut slots, but not sure about the saddles. One thing that is clear is the E and G slots are misaligned to the strings and that all strings are misaligned to the pup pole pieces (though I realise that's not an issue affecting playability).
 
One thing that is clear is the E and G slots are misaligned to the strings and that all strings are misaligned to the pup pole pieces
boo

are there actual notches filed in the saddles? if not maybe that can be corrected so the strings do in fact line up like they should; worst case you can get replacement leo quan saddles and start over
 
boo

are there actual notches filed in the saddles? if not maybe that can be corrected so the strings do in fact line up like they should; worst case you can get replacement leo quan saddles and start over
Hi
Yes, the saddles are filed, and while I love the bass (generally speaking), the quality of workmanship leaves a lot to be desired. I guess that's the cost of mass production...
 

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Hi
Yes, the saddles are filed, and while I love the bass (generally speaking), the quality of workmanship leaves a lot to be desired. I guess that's the cost of mass production...
aha;

the bridge notches actually look right, it's the neck that's crooked!

you need to loosen the three neck screws, then push the neck over towards the treble side until the outer strings both line up with the edges of the neck, then re-tighten
 

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