What's the difference between the first two gotoh bridges listed on the page?
[This invalid link has been removed] one of says "standard"
[This invalid link has been removed] one of says "standard"
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What's the difference between the first two gotoh bridges listed on the page?
[This invalid link has been removed] one of says "standard"
I just got this bridge: Invalid Link Removed
It is stunning-looking. Very beefy, and I "feel" it is at least as good as the BadAss.
I think this is the Gotoh you're looking for: [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]BB-3575-010
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gotoh 201's cheaper and way better
the saddles are rounded making the strings touch less which equals more sustain
also they look better
idk i really like my gotoh
there 35$ at bass resource or whatever its called
No.
IME, if you've got a functional bridge- if it isn't broken or cracked, the saddles aren't drifting and it intonates- it's not much of an upgrade.
Around the turn of the century I thought it would be a good idea to "upgrade" my Jazz, so I picked up a Badass II. I didn't know what to expect- a certain 'zip' to the tone, or it would magically sound "better" and have so much "sustain" I wouldn't know what to do with it. I put it on, and I couldn't tell the difference.
On paper, it makes all the sense in the world. The larger footprint, the longer string traverse, the troughs to prevent saddle drift... it all adds up to a "better" bridge... on paper.
In practical application- the only difference is this big shiny block of a bridge on your bass. If you think that's an "upgrade," cool. Have at it.
For those of you that have changed bridges and have experienced a magnificent transformation of your sound- did you change strings when you did it? So you've got your new bridge with new strings... think for a second...
Over the past 8 years or so, I've switched bridges back and forth- sometimes kept the old strings on, sometimes changed strings when changing the bridge. I've notice NO appreciable difference- I don't even notice the couple of extra ounces over the stock bent piece of metal bridge.
The only reason I've used the Badass as long as I've used it is because I forked out the money for it. I currently have the stock bent piece of metal that has just as much "tone" and "sustain" as the Badass.
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[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Seriously.
"Sustain" is one of those buzzwords that sound really important, but in all practical applications means nothing. IMO and IME, the amount of sustain in an instrument is based mainly on the materials of it's construction and secondarily it's method of construction. A bolt on, maple necked/ash/alder bodied instrument is going to have more sustain than a mahogany body/necked instrument, whether neck through or set-neck. That's just the way it is- the way the woods work together.
Perhaps there is something to be gained, tonally, by replacing the bridge. But REALLY, IMO and IME, it's not noticable.
It's been hinted at (actually outright stated) in this thread, that the Badass bridge is "badass." Regardless of the name stamped on that shiny piece of metal. Regardless of who's used it- how does it OBJECTIVELY affect your instrument?
People have said it's "improved their tone" but how has it done so?
I've replaced the bridge a dozen times in the past 8 years on my bass. I've changed strings when I've replaced the bridge. I've kept the same strings when I've replaced the bridge.
What have I done wrong to have not noticed a difference?
Perhaps it is a wood thing. Maybe a "good" bridge only makes a difference with alder or basswood.
Maybe it only makes a difference on basses with REALLY bad hardware.
I'm sitting here looking that the Fender HMV bridge I just bought to put on my MIM Fender P, and I cannot tell for the life of me if the HMV will fit the 5-hole screw configuration on the MIM.
I has SEVEN holes, three of which (second from each end, middle) are a mite smaller than the other four. The holes are fairly even-spaced, although I have nothing with which to measure them at present.
I don't have my P-bass here, or I'd hold it up there and see.
Can I "drop" this into my 5-hole MIM P-bass, or not?
The HMV bridge is for string through MIA fenders. You can plug the existing holes and re drill 3 hold pattern to accept the HMV, and string through the bridge, but you might as well just go for the goth 201 bridge since they bolt right on and about the same mass.
