Bass body raw wood?

[1n3]

I own Peavey Foundations from 1983 to 1995. The painted bodies can be basswood or poplar. Typically the color coat is applied over a hard (polyester?) sealer coat, and there's no clear coat over the color coat. If the sealer coat is still in place, the body is protected. Pics would be of interest.

 

[ctmullins]

Highly questionable conclusion, especially without seeing it in person.
A more concise way to look at this:
If the original color is no longer present, all subsequent seal coats had to be abraded away before you even hit that color layer. If that color layer is gone as well, it's raw enough to be considered unsealed wood.

Yep, some of the deeper, open pores can still block a little finish, as they likely were filled in the finishing process, but hardly what I'd call "sealed", as we're talking pinprick size pores being plugged, not a light, even coat left on the surface that will block your sweat, which is what I'd define as actually sealed, and seems to be at the root of your question.

Just trying to clarify why you're being told it's sealed, yet advised you need to seal it....

Final point I'll strongly agree with: De-waxed shellac. Look for Zinnser Bulls Eye Seal Coat, avoid their straight shellacs. It can be stripped off later with alcohol, which is the solvent it's carried in and can be re-dissolved with. That, and a judicious amount of sanding should allow you to work with a fresh stain reasonably well once the time comes.

Sealer coats are generally underneath the color coats.

 

[ctmullins]

I own Peavey Foundations from 1983 to 1995. The painted bodies can be basswood or poplar.

Or maple. I stripped a black one a few years back that had some gorgeous flame maple underneath.

Typically the color coat is applied over a hard (polyester?) sealer coat, and there's no clear coat over the color coat. If the sealer coat is still in place, the body is protected. Pics would be of interest.

Yep.

 

[micguy]

I use Danish oil to color my instruments, with a thin layer of polyurethane on top. As you need to wait several days between the Danish oil and the poly, I'd suggest Danish oil, play it a while, then do a poly overcoat later.

 

[Bill Whitehurst]

If it is indeed basswood, it isn't likely to have a wood grain that you would enjoy looking at.

 

[JC BASS 91]

I'd put a few coats of Tru Oil or tung oil on it and call it good.

But that's just me. I know others might disagree with me.

 

[1n3]

Or maple. I stripped a black one a few years back that had some gorgeous flame maple underneath.

Sounds like an unfortunate accident. I have a sunburst that I'm pretty sure is maple, so think it was around.

Did you refinish it clear?

 

[Aidenn7]

If it had some kind of finish on it, which has now been sanded off, it's not raw wood. It may look like raw wood, but the previous finish has soaked down into the pores and sealed it up. Sanding doesn't take that out. So, the body is reasonably well sealed up against moisture as it is.

However, it would still be a good idea to give it a coat of something simple to protect the wood and keep it from soaking in any more moisture or arm grease. Shellac, a water-base wipe-on polyurethane, an oil-base wipe on finish. It doesn't matter too much. But think ahead to what type of finish you eventually want to do, and use something compatible.

wipe on polly is a mix of polly and thinner.. so if you use it.. it must be on the body alone don't attach the neck or anything on it.. but it's nicest finish for furniture.. apply 6 coats.. with a cotton rag.. let each set for two days..

 

[themickster]

I don't know what type of wood it is. The bass is a 4 string Peavey Foundation. I'm guessing the year is mid '90s based on the pickups. I haven't ran the serial # through the identifier.

Post a shot of it. Someone might well know what the wood is.